Let's talk about track day brakes

[328ijunkie]

Figured it would chime in here with the beaters experience. I have run HT10, PFC08 and DTC60s. The DTC60s are the only ones that remain consistant no matter what till theyre gone. I lynch rotors on a daily basis at the track though no matter the brand. I have cooling ducts. At the end of the day its a problem of overall grip. Im running 205 star specs and the tires after a few laps are done under braking and i am forced to annilate them to get the damn car to stop. Im running consistant 145s at RA. Best time a 1:43.8
I am forced to go 5 lug now. I bet if i had stickies or 225s up front it wouldnt destroy the brakes as bad but i like beating up on people with more power and tire with my little turd ;)




Was sessioning my college roomates car while he chased me in mine and he had HP+s. Didnt end well. His car is basically same as mine but GC coilovers and FBO alum M52.
Left 10A at 110mph and pulled ebrake. If anyone here knows Road Atlanta i made it all the way to the bridge before i stopped :(.



Plenty of pad, just lit them on fire. Wheel wells went up in flames after caliper piston popped out.




Caused 3500 in damage and i didnt even hit anything technically :(

[TobyB]

...and yet the $13 rotors seem to last for at least 2 sets of pads, if you're a cheapskate...

t

[agent]

Yep. Here's one of the front (Brembo) rotors off the E30 I drove at the VIR 24 earlier this month. That one had to get changed in the pits, then the other one a couple hours later.

The pads were PFC 08s.

[TobyB]

If it was a $100k race car, I'd opt for one of the pricey discs...

Ironically, the more expensive Brembos tend to crack early and often on racey cars...

t

[HennaE30]

Good info.

Sticky worthy thread?

[JGood]

Hm. What make are these cheap rotors usually? Just out of curiosity.. I'll definitely look around again when it's time to do rotors on either of my E30s

Pronto, Centric, Wagner , etc...

They're all G3000 grade castings, so they'll all work the same for most of us. If it was a $100k race car, I'd opt for one of the pricey discs...

[HennaE30]

Rockauto has a pretty good selection of $12-$20 rotors, but any of the cheap online parts stores (partsgeek, autopartswarehouse, etc...) will have cheap rotors. I always just order from whoever is cheapest at the time.

I run the $13 rotors on our Lemons car as well as on my v8 e30. I have over 250k miles on a few sets of those cheap rotors over the past 15 years, never had any issues with any of them.

Hm. What make are these cheap rotors usually? Just out of curiosity.. I'll definitely look around again when it's time to do rotors on either of my E30s

[JGood]

Where are you getting $13 rotors? I paid twice that for mine, and they were duralasts

Rockauto has a pretty good selection of $12-$20 rotors, but any of the cheap online parts stores (partsgeek, autopartswarehouse, etc...) will have cheap rotors. I always just order from whoever is cheapest at the time.

I run the $13 rotors on our Lemons car as well as on my v8 e30. I have over 250k miles on a few sets of those cheap rotors over the past 15 years, never had any issues with any of them.

[HennaE30]

Something to consider:

Rotor cost vs Pads.

With racing, I would happily sacrifice rotors over pads. Rotors are something like $13 a pop vs $300 for pads. You can eat a lot of rotors in a season of PRO3 before it becomes cost prohibitive..

Unless you are one of those people who still think drilled rotors are Racecar! ;)

Where are you getting $13 rotors? I paid twice that for mine, and they were duralasts

[djjerme]

Something to consider:

Rotor cost vs Pads.

With racing, I would happily sacrifice rotors over pads. Rotors are something like $13 a pop vs $300 for pads. You can eat a lot of rotors in a season of PRO3 before it becomes cost prohibitive..

Unless you are one of those people who still think drilled rotors are Racecar! ;)

[berlow94]

The noise is definitely confidence inspiring.
I run 17x8 Apex arc8's. With 235 Toyo Proxe rr's.
15's and 16's won't fit over these brakes.
Thanks!

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk

[JRKOUPE]

cephas..pm sent




andrew..

I kinda like that noise..its comforting hearing the brakes work on the track....

btw..CAE porn...geez, I gotta visit you....sweet.

do u run 16's...r6 or 7?....or do u run 15's?

[berlow94]

My car is a high hp S52 swapped dedicated track car. Brakes are Massive race kit with 320mm rotors, Wilwood SL6 calipers up front and SL4's in the rear. I'm running dual 5/8" master cylinders with no brake booster and a remotely adjustable bias bar.
Car weighs less than 2500 lb's with a full tank of gas and me in it.
I started off with Ferodo DS2500 pads last year and hated them.
Currently on DTC60's. They eat rotors if driven below operating temp at all and get kind of noisy when they get up to temp.

(Which im sure is partly due to the fact that i have giant solid radial mounted calipers)

With that being said, the friction level and initial bite are amazing. Totally worth the noise.
The wear is also very impressive!

Here is a video example of the noise: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6_qRwaq49Ag

[z31maniac]

Also, using compressed air to push a piston out seems really dumb. Dont atomize brake fluid!

How do you do it then?

[TobyB]

Also, using compressed air to push a piston out seems really dumb.

Any other suggestions? I've only been doing it that way for 20 years or so...
...especially with a 4- pot fixed caliper, I've never found any other way to get 'em out without destroying 'em.

I DO wrap that wrascal in a towel... which helps a lot with the cloud of breatheable yumminess...
...and usually catches the flying piston!

t