Let's talk about track day brakes

[Axxe]

F+R is the key to success. We wear rears down almost as fast as fronts.

[2PointSlow]

Are you guys running 08s F&R?

[Axxe]

As if the PFC 08's need any more praise, we ran ~10hrs at the Glen and ~23hrs straight at Homestead road course on the same set of pad and finished 3mm from the backing plates. There wasn't a car that out-braked us either, no ducting (value add last year with no room left in points budget). The 23 hrs were broken up with a 1hr red flag for fog but other than that the car was running the whole race. Pretty good pads.

[CorvallisBMW]

PFC 08, quality rotors, fresh quality DOT4 fluid, and you are done.

Yeah, it's a no-brainer when 08s are $130 and 11s are $110 an axle. I would bring an extra set of rotors in case they crack.

Yep, I run PFC 08's and the cheapest rotors I can find on World-Pac on my Spec E30. I beat on the thing in 40 minute races without the slightest bit of brake fade. If anything, my tires started dropping off and lengthened my brake zones. I also run ATE 200 with cooling ducts that terminate directly on the rotor.

x2. I've not ever had a stock type rotor crack in 14 hour enduro using this setup. - AB

+1 on all of this. We run PFC 08 on our LeMons/Chump car and can out-brake most anything on the track for 12+ hours straight (though we've never cracked a rotor).

[agent]

Well, they have been great for what I needed when I first built the car, which was a street vehicle that would see an occasional autocross. Now that I'm doing more track days it's time to get something for that purpose.

Thanks for all the replies thus far fellas!

[nando]

HPS are shit. stop buying them!

[B1mmer]

PFC 08, quality rotors, fresh quality DOT4 fluid, and you are done.

x2. I've not ever had a stock type rotor crack in 14 hour enduro using this setup. - AB

[MX339]

Yep, I run PFC 08's and the cheapest rotors I can find on World-Pac on my Spec E30. I beat on the thing in 40 minute races without the slightest bit of brake fade. If anything, my tires started dropping off and lengthened my brake zones. I also run ATE 200 with cooling ducts that terminate directly on the rotor.

[FredK]

Yeah, it's a no-brainer when 08s are $130 and 11s are $110 an axle. I would bring an extra set of rotors in case they crack.

New lines certainly make sense if you've never replaced them.

HPS and HP+ both are inadequate for serious track work. They are good autocross pads but that's it.

[Axxe]

PFC 08, quality rotors, fresh quality DOT4 fluid, and you are done.

[agent]

The Brembo/Hawk HPS setup I have now is fine for the street, though I think I've outgrown it for track day use. As I've read from a handful of people, their effectiveness drops off when they get hot requiring increased pedal pressure/travel. I experienced this at my last HPDE and had to start backing up my brake points as it got later in the sessions.

From what I've gathered in my reading this far, that may have also been a function of the use of stock DOT4 fluid (despite being fresh), the old stock lines, a missing duct, or some combination of all of those.

To eliminate some of those potential culprits I will be replacing the stock DOT4 fluid with either ATE 200 or Motul RBF 600 (I bought both), installing Turner stainless lines and replacing the missing brake duct on the passenger side. I'm running an E32 booster with a 25mm MC.

With all that in mind, what are some current recommendations for pads and rotors to be used in an HPDE/track day setting? I'm not opposed to a dedicated setup for the track, although since I will be driving the car to the event, ideally I would like to be able to install whatever I'll be using before making the trip (which is 98% interstate).