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    E30 performance brakes.

    I'm swapping in a m50 motor later down the road for my 87 e30 and was wondering what would be the best brake upgrade for her.
    The more comments the better!
    Thank you 😁


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    #2
    Track or street use?

    My vote for track goes to PFC08's.

    Street is a different story and I can't really help there, but I don't think the PFC08's make much sense for a street car. They are dusty as heck.
    Last edited by Cephas; 09-18-2015, 12:47 PM.

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      #3
      You don't need upgraded brakes for an M50 swap. Assuming the rest of the braking system is well sorted, quality blanks (e.g. Brembo), good pads and fresh fluid will be more than adequate. Optionally you can add stainless lines.

      If you're asking strictly about pads, then yes - PFC08s for track use with the occasional street drive or to/from the track.
      Originally posted by kronus
      would be in depending on tip slant and tube size

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        #4
        ^^agent is spot on!
        FEEDBACK:
        http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=316212

        BMWCCA #398608
        IG @yagayo38

        "The Best E30's were built with two camshafts four cylinders and sixteen valves!".

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          #5
          I track with pfc 08 all around and daily(if i have to) with textar with ate Typ200 brake fluid. Never really had an issue with braking, just make sure everything is good. People will say otherwise. This is with a s52.

          "Hard Work Pays Off"



          1991-bmw 325i (R3vvd)
          1990- 325 (mpowa)(GC)(track)(beast)
          1988- 528e (daily driven when track car broken)

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            #6
            So the stock manufacture rotors are A okay for the bigger HP? I'm looking for 400hp+ out of this build in the future for street & track use


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              #7
              My E30/M50 is 400+ hp and I am running 245/40r15 Hoosiers (the tires you use make a difference in braking). I felt the need for a little more braking power, so my setup is:

              -UUC BBK up front
              -DTC-60 pads up front
              -Stock rears with brass guides, stainless pistons, and Brembo blanks
              -HT-10 pads in the rear (Hawk doesn't make DTC-60 compound for stock E30 calipers)
              -Wilwood manual bias valve
              -Massive booster delete
              -19mm Master cylinder
              -Motul 660 fluid.
              -Ducting from the bumper to backing plates in the front (cooling those fronts is vital to pad life)

              I'm very happy with this setup and it stops the car well from 150+mph :)
              sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

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                #8
                So you run brembo blanks front and rear with bbk calipers in front but stock calipers in rear essentially but with upped pads


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                  #9
                  No, complete UUC kit up front (calipers/rotors/lines), and stock blanks in the rear.
                  sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

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                    #10
                    Thanks Rocco! I really appreciate the info man


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                      #11
                      I'm looking for 400hp+ out of this build in the future for street & track use
                      So, when you have the bugs out of it and are ready for the track, you MIGHT need
                      some more brake. But the car's not going to get heavier with an S52, so until you're
                      doing 150 on the straight, your stock brakes will be ok. Even then, they'll stop you-
                      but not for many laps.

                      What I'm getting at is, if your stock setup needs replacement now, then yes, upgrading
                      makes sense IF you're sure you're going to seriously track it with R- compounds and stuff.
                      But if your stock brakes are OK now, do the swap, get it working, enjoy it on the street,
                      and when you are serious about driving it hard, THEN worry about the brakes...

                      t
                      now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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                        #12
                        ^^^Good points here. I tracked my car with 210 whp on NT-01's, HT-10 pads, and stock brembo blanks and the stock brakes with good pads was more than enough stopping power. If you go that route rebuild the stock calipers. New stainless pistons, seals, and brass guide bushings w/ fresh pins.
                        sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

                        Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/levelmotorsport/

                        Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LeVelIndustries/?fref=ts

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by RoccoB517 View Post
                          My E30/M50 is 400+ hp and I am running 245/40r15 Hoosiers (the tires you use make a difference in braking). I felt the need for a little more braking power, so my setup is:

                          -UUC BBK up front
                          -DTC-60 pads up front
                          -Stock rears with brass guides, stainless pistons, and Brembo blanks
                          -HT-10 pads in the rear (Hawk doesn't make DTC-60 compound for stock E30 calipers)
                          -Wilwood manual bias valve
                          -Massive booster delete
                          -19mm Master cylinder
                          -Motul 660 fluid.
                          -Ducting from the bumper to backing plates in the front (cooling those fronts is vital to pad life)

                          I'm very happy with this setup and it stops the car well from 150+mph :)

                          Is your ABS system still hooked up? I have very similar set up but my ABS system is not working since I swapped to S50 and I have problem with my front wheels locking up a lot on hard braking and I am flat spotting tires. Do you have this problem? I don't have bias valve thought.
                          1990 e30 325is S50 swap (NASA GTS2 race car)
                          1990 e30 325is
                          1988 e30 M3 S50 euro swap

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                            #14
                            No ABS, and I did have the same problem until I deleted the booster and added the bias valve. Very interesting to hear someone else experienced the exact same thing.
                            sigpicLevel Motorsport: www.levelmotorsport.com

                            Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/levelmotorsport/

                            Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/LeVelIndustries/?fref=ts

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                              #15
                              I have problem with my front wheels locking up a lot on hard braking and I am flat spotting tires. Do you have this problem? I don't have bias valve thought.
                              A bias valve is only going to help you if you put it on the FRONT wheels, and then
                              you may very well discover what too much REAR bias gets you.

                              Start with a non- abs master cylinder- they have different bore sizes.

                              t
                              now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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