help setting up booster delete and retain ABS

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Out of curiousity, did the 17 go to the back or the front?

The 17 may indeed be your problem- if it was me, I'd stick a 20.6mm one on,
just because I have a couple sitting around...

Let us know how 22 works. If Wilwood likes it, I bet it's a lot better.

t

17 goes to the back, 22 goes to the front. The front port feeds the rear, rear port feeds the front (on the MC). I wasn't using the original MC. I had already swapped it for a 19/19.

Just installed the 22/22 after bench bleeding it and tediously installing it preventing minimum fluid leak. Bleeding the calipers now.

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[TobyB]

Out of curiousity, did the 17 go to the back or the front?

The 17 may indeed be your problem- if it was me, I'd stick a 20.6mm one on,
just because I have a couple sitting around...

Let us know how 22 works. If Wilwood likes it, I bet it's a lot better.

t

[Sh3rpak!ng]

When you get it all figured out, you should start a fresh thread with how you fixed it. I bet there are others out there who have run into this exact issue.

Will do

[jpod999]

When you get it all figured out, you should start a fresh thread with how you fixed it. I bet there are others out there who have run into this exact issue.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Try it, I think you'll like it over a 19mm.

Fingers crossed. Also looks like I'll be able to mount the res on top like normal, fingers crossed that works.

[e30_302]

Try it, I think you'll like it over a 19mm.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

So far no luck finding the mustang MC available today... trying to get the car finished for bimmerfest saturday

but BMA parts (I pass them going to work) is able to get me the MC from a e32 which according to real oem and some pictures is a 22/22.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

http://www.cjponyparts.com/cardone-s...FYomhgodr1kFKA

Thanks man!

[e30_302]

http://www.cjponyparts.com/cardone-select-brake-master-cylinder-new-1987-1993/p/BMC41/?gclid=COmc-YCk-MwCFYomhgodr1kFKA

[Sh3rpak!ng]

A Fox body Mustang. The mounting holes need to be slotted to fit, it's not a direct fitment.

I can work with that. What year range should I look for? P/N?

[e30_302]

A Fox body Mustang. The mounting holes need to be slotted to fit, it's not a direct fitment.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Just called wilwood tech support and they recommended a 7/8" (22.2mm) MC to go with the 4x1.38" piston calipers and a 6:1 pedal ratio.

Anyone know of a bmw, or similar style 22/22 MC? I just bought and compared a vw corrado/jetta (I think) 22/22 MC last night but the geometry of the unit is way off unfortunately.


comparison pic I took last night... comparing the piston stopping point vs flange between the two, the vw unit is about 1" further inward. Too much to make up for with rod adjustment.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Thats what I thought. Which car did the 21mm MC come from? Part number? It also seems the 733 had a 22/22 MC. I was considering.

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[e30_302]

A 25mm master is gonna need gorilla legs. I imagine that's like standing on a brick- but some like it that way. I really like the 21 I have, good for my tastes.

Edit- forgot I had a 1" master at one point (25.4mm). I hated it.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

It does sounds like there's still air in the system, unless your front BBK total piston area is something insanely large.

Do you know what size pistons you have in the Wilwoods?

Yes, they are 4 piston X 1.38". The standard calipers that pair with the 280mm corrado rotors. And the 19/19 MC is also recommended by massive.

The proportioning valve can only reduce rear brake pressure- if your front calipers are
bigger than stock hydraulically, then you'll have increased front brake, not rear.

The stock early ABS leaves the (pretty close to ideal) 70/30 split, then adds abs on
top of it. It has a valve in the rear line, but it doesn't SEEM to be a proportioning
valve, more a 'delay' valve to keep the rears from getting pressure before the fronts..

The later ABS uses that funky split (22/17?) master cylinder. I initially thought they
ran the 17mm to the back to add extra rear brake that the ABS then modulated out
when you braked hard, but it's been too long since I took it apart.

As to bench bleeding, that's a Chevy thing- they love it. Sometimes a bubble gets stuck
in the master, and it's a bear to get out, but usually you can pop off the offending
line, let it bleed into a bottle, then reattach successfully. I have a cut- off piece of
brake line and tubing that works pretty well for that. I've used it twice- once on the 2002,
once on an RX7.

The other thing generically I've found- hit it with a hammer. As in, tap the calipers a
few times, and re- bleed. Sometimes that helps with the smaller air bubbles that love
to stick to the castings and not float up to the top.
Also, go out and romp on it. Heat and vibration will help float air out, and the pressure
will seat the pads and get mechanical spring out of things. It's a little contradictory,
as you'd like good brakes BEFORE you go, but it often works.

hth

t

Makes sense about the prop valve, so I guess I may not need it, but can I not just set it to full open for now?

I have the later ABS and MC. It's the 22/17 MC and I also had the "prop valve" on the rear line.

I guess I could try bleeding bubbles out of the MC on the car like you describe. And I also knew of the "knocking calipers with hammer" - did that while bleeding twice. I did drive it already too. First time the brakes were seriously bad, couldn't really stop the car. Bled again, cycled ABS solenoids, and drove and it felt better, but still not very good.

Someone else with this brake setup (booster delete and wilwood bbk) recommended a 25/25 MC and said it felt good. I'm wondering if the MC is just too small and not moving enough fluid.