Brake Duct Hose Adapter

[GThomas]

Did this a few months ago and these adapters worked great. I figured I'd share the love and save you guys some coin also. For 3" brake hose.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ak-]

Neat! Can we bother you for a couple pictures even though it's pretty simple?
I'm diving into this project in a couple weeks with a friend.

[GThomas]

Neat! Can we bother you for a couple pictures even though it's pretty simple?
I'm diving into this project in a couple weeks with a friend.

Sure thing. I'll take some thing weekend when I'm doing the brakes. Needs some simple dremel work to work off some tabs. Also paired with some 3 inch metal screen repair squares that fit perfectly so no debris gets in.

[ak-]

Totally forgot about using a screen - thanks and thank you.

[TobyB]

Ha- nice!

t

[Fooshe]

Just curious...what are you doing that you heat your brakes so much that these are needed? Perhaps a pad change and adjustment to your braking method would fix your problem more easily?

[TobyB]

Track.

t

[djjerme]

Track day bro.


I actually use the bigger NACA ducts in place of the fog light assembly. #BecauseRaceCar

[Fooshe]

Ok, so here is why I asked...Most Spec E30 racers don't even use brake cooling ducts and they are arguably using their brakes at their maximum in sprint races. Some Pro3 drivers don't use them either. Now if the track configuration requires it (Like Thermal in Southern California) I can understand using them.

I suggested a pad change because most people who track their cars don't really understand which pad to use or which will be the most effective for what they do.

I suggested a braking style change because just about every track day student I have been in the right seat with over slows the car and is WAAAY to hard on their brakes from trying to carry too much speed into the corner with ultra late braking...which is the opposite of what they should be doing. Late braking is for passing, not obtaining your best lap time. Brake earlier and stronger up front and taper off as you enter the corner so your minimum speed at the apex is higher. Remember, slow in - fast out...exit speed is king.

I've been racing a long time and have tested this theory....each time I question it, I have failed to prove that saying wrong.

[djjerme]

I ran the first few seasons without any kind of ducting to my brakes. And that was on Hawk HT10/DTC60's.

When I started doing more of the 1 hour enduros and using my car for Lucky Dog races, we decided to add the cooling.

Best thing to do is actually to get data from the heat built up in the brake assembly and see if you do need cooling. Pads do have an optimum operating heat range, and too cold can be almost as bad as overheating.

I'd say get some of the heat sensitive paint and see what the calipers or pads are seeing.. and you're right, different tracks require different brake use and can be easier or harder on brake systems.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ak-]

Ok, so here is why I asked...Most Spec E30 racers don't even use brake cooling ducts and they are arguably using their brakes at their maximum in sprint races. Some Pro3 drivers don't use them either. Now if the track configuration requires it (Like Thermal in Southern California) I can understand using them.

I suggested a pad change because most people who track their cars don't really understand which pad to use or which will be the most effective for what they do.

I suggested a braking style change because just about every track day student I have been in the right seat with over slows the car and is WAAAY to hard on their brakes from trying to carry too much speed into the corner with ultra late braking...which is the opposite of what they should be doing. Late braking is for passing, not obtaining your best lap time. Brake earlier and stronger up front and taper off as you enter the corner so your minimum speed at the apex is higher. Remember, slow in - fast out...exit speed is king.

I've been racing a long time and have tested this theory....each time I question it, I have failed to prove that saying wrong.

I believe everything you say, but I'm guessing it has to do with the S52 in his car.
Cooling would be beneficial regardless, though, even if not entirely necessary.

[Fooshe]

I believe everything you say, but I'm guessing it has to do with the S52 in his car.
Cooling would be beneficial regardless, though, even if not entirely necessary.

Thanks AK...my goal is only to help with my experiences and years of comparing notes with other racers. Yes, the S52 is getting him to speed more quickly that an M20 in a normal E30 would, however, that probably is only about 10%-20% of the problem he is having. The Spec E30 car I drive is 2400 lbs with a 20 overbore on it making 160hp at the wheels. They are probably pretty close in performance with a slight nod going to his car.

Djjerme actually makes a great point and said something that I was thinking about, but didn't make note of. Cold brakes, specifically pads that must operate at high temps to be effective, can be worse than most people think. Couple that with braking more like people do on the street and I can see how the braking doesn't work for him.

Enduro's don't always require brake cooling...it depends on the pads and the track configuration. I did the 25 hours at Thunderhill in my Spec E30 and only used 1 set of pads for the entire race...no air ducting on the car and they worked perfectly. Now one thing we have not introduced intothe conversation is if you add a slotted rotor to the mix. The gas escape also helps with heat dissipation so if you consider a higher quality rotor (stoptech) that is slotted...blah, blah, blah. I'm sure you see where I am going with this.

At the end of the day, my point is that one size does not fit all. It takes some R & D and talking with those that have gone down this road before to see what works best for your car and for the tracks you drive.

Now don't get me started on Brake/Pad release...probably the most important thing to going faster that most people don't understand or consider. The release characteristic of the pad, coupled with the driver's braking method(s), can not only decrease wear and temps, but increase speed.

[TobyB]

Like Jeremy, I found that the stock brake inlets were too small, dtc 10, dtc 60, pf7, all overheated pads, and rotors, as proved by tempilaq

Larger inlets and 3" ducting, problems solved. 160k mile stock engine.

The e30 brake is working hard at the track.

t

[Fooshe]

Wow...interesting TobyB.

The DTC line is pretty good. Not sure I like the 10's in front, or did you have the 60's in front?

So, I wonder if your cars are simply a lot heavier. Also, you standing the car on it's nose in the braking zone? Don't get me wrong, I can over-cook my brakes if I work them to death, too. Track lay out a factor?

I just don't understand why your temps are getting so high. Toby, what was the temp you used on your tempilaq?

[GThomas]

I'm running DTC 60s up front on UUC BBK with Garagisitic back plate adapters. DTC 70's in the rear with stock calipers. All of my plastic ducting had broken off from autocross. The s52 certainly makes the car quicker than spec e30's but I'm not claiming to have a ton of data to back this up or to have years upon years of racing experience. I would imagine my breaking skills are not up to expert level but I learn more every time. I'll be at Watkins Glen next week and will take temps of my rotors and calipers for reference.