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    #16
    Ok, that is good info. The DTC 60 & 70 set up is pretty aggressive, is not known for being rotor friendly and have pretty high optimal operating temps.

    I am very interested in your brake temps because the more I think about it, I wonder if your pad choice is the problem. I suspect that you are not getting the pads hot enough for them to be as effective as they should be. I say this because the 60's don't start working well until about 700 degrees and the 70's at 800, if memory serves me right.

    If you are a diehard Hawk brake pad user, perhaps the HP+ pads might work well for you. I would also look into Porterfield RS-4's, EBC Redstuff or Carbotech AX6 or Bobcats. Personally, I think the Carbotech AX6 might be just what the doctor ordered.

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      #17
      Originally posted by Fooshe View Post
      Ok, that is good info. The DTC 60 & 70 set up is pretty aggressive, is not known for being rotor friendly and have pretty high optimal operating temps.

      I am very interested in your brake temps because the more I think about it, I wonder if your pad choice is the problem. I suspect that you are not getting the pads hot enough for them to be as effective as they should be. I say this because the 60's don't start working well until about 700 degrees and the 70's at 800, if memory serves me right.

      If you are a diehard Hawk brake pad user, perhaps the HP+ pads might work well for you. I would also look into Porterfield RS-4's, EBC Redstuff or Carbotech AX6 or Bobcats. Personally, I think the Carbotech AX6 might be just what the doctor ordered.

      I have DTC-30 and HPS For fronts i could use also. I'll see what i have for rears.
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        #18
        Toby, what was the temp you used on your tempilaq?
        I lied, it was the color- change version.
        https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=4974

        It was turning grey at the rotor edge. Rotors were showing surface scarring, and the pad surface was eroding.
        My initial problem was an odd 87 eta 'anti something' valve that was stuck, giving too much rear bias, then just bad brake feel by lap 6.
        I dragged Hank Moore over at one point, and he looked at the pads, rotors
        and ducting, pointed a toe at the inlets, and said, 'Looks like heat to me', and then I put the paint on. I hadn't expected heat to be the problem, either.

        I AM running the Mason hub adaptors, which are only 2" at the wheel, necked up to 3" tube.

        PF7 all the way around, now, have been fine with the bigger roundy- round front ducts.

        For reference, I have driven 3 of these cars in enduros AND sprints on the same tracks before, and had never
        had brake problems before I built this car. So while I'm certainly guilty of over- slowing
        the car, the others put up with it, this one didn't.

        fwiw,
        t
        Last edited by TobyB; 05-03-2017, 02:33 PM.
        now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

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          #19
          Originally posted by GThomas View Post
          I have DTC-30 and HPS For fronts i could use also. I'll see what i have for rears.

          Both of those are medium torque level pads and not, in my humble option, your best option. However, they will most likely work better than the set up you use now as their minimum operating temp and optimal temps are much, much lower. For Autocross, that's a good thing unless you are driving long courses with multiple high speed braking corners.

          To really figure this out right, we really do need to know what your brake temps look like, see where you drive and consider your driving style. If we don't have all we need to figure that out, we use what we have.

          Also, and most important, flush your brake system and replace the fluid with some Motul 600 RBF. Make sure to bleed the brakes for each event, too. That is very important.

          As a baseline, I am going to stick with what I recommended. The one thing I do know is that if you overheat those, you are WAY to hard on your brakes, which means you are slow and need to more changes to the software rather than the hardware.

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            #20
            Originally posted by TobyB View Post
            I lied, it was the color- change version.
            https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...asp?RecID=4974

            It was turning grey at the rotor edge. Rotors were showing surface scarring, and the pad surface was eroding.
            My initial problem was an odd 87 eta 'anti something' valve that was stuck, giving too much rear bias, then just bad brake feel by lap 6.
            I dragged Hank Moore over at one point, and he looked at the pads, rotors
            and ducting, pointed a toe at the inlets, and said, 'Looks like heat to me', and then I put the paint on. I hadn't expected heat to be the problem, either.

            I AM running the Mason hub adaptors, which are only 2" at the wheel, necked up to 3" tube.

            PF7 all the way around, now, have been fine with the bigger roundy- round front ducts.

            For reference, I have driven 3 of these cars in enduros AND sprints on the same tracks before, and had never
            had brake problems before I built this car. So while I'm certainly guilty of over- slowing
            the car, the others put up with it, this one didn't.

            fwiw,
            t

            Wow! if it was grey, you are getting over 1250 degrees! Yep, standing the car on it's nose. You need something much more like the Reybestos ST-43 and ducting. If it were me, I would save some time and money and change my braking methods. Unless you are at speeds that a regular track would see, there is no way you should be that hot for an autocross. Also, the ducts won't cure the problem because the amount of air being pushed to the calipers is not that significant. Don't get me wrong, it will help, but there are more fixes needed here.

            I see this routinely...people will shop and pour money into their cars putting BBK's on all kinds of go fast stuff, but talk with them about a driving coach and they look at you like a dog hearing something in the distance.

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              #21
              If it were me, I would save some time and money and change my braking methods.
              this is a Pro3 car.

              Less is already more. I aim for Les. Sometimes I hit Wes, Ken, or completely by accident, Dave, who just happened to be in the exactly wrong place at just the right time.

              End of my story was the roundy- round inlets, instead of the stock inlet. They're a bit bigger, but not massively.

              I am surprised that
              Most Spec E30 racers don't even use brake cooling ducts
              since close racing really disrupts airflow, and thus, cooling. I do know that I've never spotted a Pro3 car WITHOUT them. Doesn't mean that there aren't a few, but I haven't seen 'em.

              t
              Last edited by TobyB; 05-05-2017, 12:08 AM.
              now, sometimes I just mess with people. It's more entertaining that way. george graves

              Comment


                #22
                nice find thomas! i found these at home depot also.

                they have worked great for the last 4 years

                you just need to shave the little nipples so you attach the hose

                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ighlight=brake


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                  #23
                  Originally posted by TobyB View Post

                  I aim for Les. Sometimes I hit Wes, Ken, or completely by accident, Dave, who just happened to be in the exactly wrong place at just the right time.

                  t

                  Originally posted by whysimon
                  WTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)

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