Sparco 10p Cage

[NickS]

Do you mean the pipes that go towards the A pillar? Those are a PITA as they are located up higher.

the down pipes from the main hoop are easy, those don't need a tilt, however, welding the bars that go up front is another story.

ttt

No, I meant the tubes heading towards the rear bulkhead...I won't be putting in a full cage, so no tubes towards the A-pillar. Ideally, the diagonals to the rear bulkhead and the tubes going to the front would meet at the same node, so I'm not sure what you mean about them being 'located up higher'; they'd both be as high up as they can get. It looks like 155///MPH's are nice and high-up, and that is where I have some clearance questions.

I'm wondering about the clearances needed to weld all the way around the rear tubes with the main hoop already in place. I plan to the penetrate the rear bulkhead, which may make tacking tubes and then removing the whole thing to re-weld a bit of a pain, but maybe it's not too bad. I'm thinking that removing the rear 1/4 windows may free up space, and provide another angle to get at the top of the tubes. At what point (vertical distance from the headliner) will it be a pain in the ass to weld a tube on?

[trent]

when you goto build the cage, just build the rear downpipes as high as you can weld with your welder. I am planning my cage as well, and will hopefully be starting on it this weekend. Yes, you will need to remove the rear quarter windows

[UNHCLL]

Hmm the vsr/autopower ones wont really work in a RHD car. They seem to have to have an indent for the driver seat etc. I could butcher one up and get it the right way around i suppose.

I know there's no such thing as overkill when it comes to safety, but that cage there is way too much for me. Especially when i need to attempt to get the car licenced with a huge chev under the bonnet. That's why i would've liked that 10 point bolt in one, i wont be using a backseat anyway.

Do any available cages go to the rear shock towers? I'd like to beef the rear end up by running some of the cage down to the diff mount too. A fully custom cage would cost a shite load down here, unless i built it myself. Dont have a pipe bender or a mig though, it'd take aaaages with a tig.

If you wish to order a VSR Rollbar, we can adjust the harness bar & diagonal for a RHD application. These are not mass-produced without any oversight by us, so we have the ability to adjust as needed.

Thanks,
Chris

[Firestorm]

If you wish to order a VSR Rollbar, we can adjust the harness bar & diagonal for a RHD application. These are not mass-produced without any oversight by us, so we have the ability to adjust as needed.

Thanks,
Chris

Ooh that's what i like to hear, i'll pm you later on. Thanks!

[Massive Lee]

when you goto build the cage, just build the rear downpipes as high as you can weld with your welder. I am planning my cage as well, and will hopefully be starting on it this weekend. Yes, you will need to remove the rear quarter windows

It is easier to tack the rollbar in place. Weld the rearward on 180º and finish welding the rearward bars out of car, along with the base plates to the hoop, and the diagonal. Once you bring back the roll bar in the car, then weld the base plates to ther rockers and the rearward bars to the wheelwell. No need to remove the quarter glass, and it is easier to weld all tubes on 360º.

If you intend one day to continue building the rollbar as a rollcage, then make sure the hoop is parallel to the B pillar (and not tilted to the back) in order to allow better access when welding the upper forward tubes to the hoop.

[trent]

It is easier to tack the rollbar in place. Weld the rearward on 180º and finish welding the rearward bars out of car, along with the base plates to the hoop, and the diagonal. Once you bring back the roll bar in the car, then weld the base plates to ther rockers and the rearward bars to the wheelwell. No need to remove the quarter glass, and it is easier to weld all tubes on 360º.

If you intend one day to continue building the rollbar as a rollcage, then make sure the hoop is parallel to the B pillar (and not tilted to the back) in order to allow better access when welding the upper forward tubes to the hoop.

Thanks for the advise Lee, however, the design of the bar and clearance through firewall will not allow it to be welded out of the car. I am not doing a roll bar, basically a "rear cage"

[Scott///M]

The BeerTech cage design has been crash tested. Very solid!