trackable street car?
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I have run Toyo RA-1s unshaved for 2 events. Great tires. I run them on bottlecaps. I can't remember the size, but it's the SE 30 regulation size. I've also driven to the track on them and they don't wear prematurely with highway driving. -
Thanks guys.
The 325i came with the regular seats and not the sport seats. Still pretty comfortable but not the support of the "is" seats.
I had been wondering about the Toyos as an option, but I was figuring on getting more familiarity with the handling on the 325i before moving to the RA-1s. Use them unshaved since they would also be weekend street tires? Size 205/55/14s or the 225/50/14?Leave a comment:
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Keep the bottlecaps and save money for tires. The 615s are more of an autox tire and will get greasy. Get a set of Toyo RA-1s. If u bump up to the 15x7 you just spend more money on rubber. If you are learning and aren't worried about time just stay on the cheaper 14s while learning.Leave a comment:
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the factory recaro sport seats hold you in pretty good compared to nearly every stock seat i've ridden in apart from other bmw's with sport seats, vipers, etc.Leave a comment:
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Good thread.
I'm also just starting out with an e30 1990 325i that will see some HPDEs this year. I'm doing basic suspension upgrades (Bilstein/H&R sport, bushings and mounts) and catching up with the past due maintenance of the POs (long list here).
I have 9 HPDEs in a miata over the past few years and picked up the 325 for the next step up in a trackable street car. I typically run in the intermediate group.
Two questions:
-wheels/tires: car came with 14" bottlecaps and some Dunlop all seasons. Does it make more sense to go for new wheels and tires (say 15x7 wheels and Kumho or...) or just go new tires on the bottlecaps as I learn the car (Azeni 615s as the likely choice in a 14).
-seat belts/harness: I ran a rollbar, 6 point harness, and fia seats in the miata and liked the feel of being planted in the seat. For the 325i what would be a good start? Options that I can think of would be to use the: stock seat belts; stock seat belts plus the lap belts from the old harness; stock seat belts and a CGlock; or a set of Schroth 4 pts (even though folks use these I am a bit leery of a harness w/o a rollbar). I know going for a rollbar would be another option but I need/want more seat time in the car before making that decision.
Insights welcomed. Thanks!Leave a comment:
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track worthy?....what does that mean?......there are no true dual duty cars........its a compromise.
Any well maintained bimmer is track worthy. I have a dual duty car.....its almost too so
ft for advanced level DE's and almost too hard for a DD. Sure, w/ the proper choices one can find a good 'tweener, but there are no hard and fast answers. Too stiff for one is not hard enuf for another. C/o's are fine for the street w/ the proper rates.......and Spec e 30 does fine as well. Whats the dilemma here?.....your car wont break.........unlesss you run like 800 lbers.....and then you just end up having horrrible creaks and groans......and compressed lumbar discs!!!!!Leave a comment:
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My mechanic explained to me, that your car is either a street car or a track car. You can not have the best of both worlds, you can build an all around car but it will do both not as well. Im sure some of the more experienced members can explain your issue well.Leave a comment:
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i want to hear some discussion on thicker sways vs stiffer springs because i believe with the right research you can get trackworthy suspension that you can drive on the street w/o breaking your carLeave a comment:
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Hahaha! I had those on my BMW 325e, those squeaked like a Richard Gears gerbals!Leave a comment:
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I am pretty sure I know what I am going to do. Many of you have gave me some fantastic direction to take the car.
I am going to be buying some stuff *stay tuned to see what* but I am taking the advice some have said:
I am taking the car out in it's stock (from the factory) equipment for a stroll to the track. I am going to have an instructor holding my hand (and I am cool with that...like I said, I am a n00b.) so I can learn the turns.
I just need to replace my lower control arms, tie rods, and bushings before I go out. I have one that is ready to be replaced.
Good stuff guys! I think this thread really has helped me! :) (my wife and my bank account also thank you) lol! When I go with crazy mods (and I will someday) I will be looking for MAD deals! :)Leave a comment:
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I have a question i've been dying to ask the right crowd...Springs vs swaybars
Basically one of the biggest reasons for higher spring rates is the body roll factor but it makes street driving unbearable. So will getting decent street spring rates and good set of sway bars perform just as well if not BETTER (better travel of the suspension on the surface??) than stiff rates.
i know there's shocks, tires, bushings and other variables but take the same circumstances
many schools of thought on this.........
for street, use a HR sport and bars.......I run HR race w/ stock bars......and driving to a track can be tough at times.Leave a comment:
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I have a question i've been dying to ask the right crowd...Springs vs swaybars
Basically one of the biggest reasons for higher spring rates is the body roll factor but it makes street driving unbearable. So will getting decent street spring rates and good set of sway bars perform just as well if not BETTER (better travel of the suspension on the surface??) than stiff rates.
i know there's shocks, tires, bushings and other variables but take the same circumstancesLeave a comment:

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