Strip whatever you personally dont want in the car. I know exactly what your doing and my good friend is doing the same thing. right now there is nothing in his interior except a half cage, bucket seat, harness, and the dash. No a/c, no stereo equipment, no heater.
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Oh I plan on doing more HPDE's, don't you worry. I posted looking for information on what specifically I'm looking to do. I'm about this close from asking a moderator to delete this thread entirely, as I've gotten very, very little information pertaining to the original post, and plenty of OT comments/banter/bitching.Comment
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See, thats what I was thinking. I was under the assumption that later 318is aftermarket springs/struts were the same for 325's?? I know early model M10 318's were different, but my suspension came out of a '91 318is, sorry if I didn't specify.
I'll retain most of the interior parts to be able to put it back to a daily drivable car when I do infact sell it. You people must think there is no place to sell an E30 outside of these forum walls/Spec E30 candidates
(no offense intended towards you lance, you've actually been helpful).
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Ken, I think you took my post for the spirit it was intended. Cool.
I was in your EXACT position with my last, pre-BMW car. I simply couldn't drive the thing any faster than it was. I could have done some of the things you talk about and made it marginally quicker, but I didn't. And I still had a hell of a time selling it for anything approaching a decent price. I'm just trying to push my 43 years of worldly experience down your youthful throat so you are ahead of the game when you do go for the faster car. ;)Basically - I feel I'm getting close to the limits of the car, and since I can't quite afford to get a E36 and do what I want to it yet, I want to try to squeeze a little bit more performance out of this car for as little money as possible before I upgrade cars entirely.
Yes, there is a world of market out there for E30s of most any description, but with as many guys looking for E30 donors as there are now it just is foolish (to me) to cut yourself out of that market.sigpicComment
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Okay here is the list thus far:
Umm..theres not much more you can do. Thats basically all the heavy stuff on the car but I can add some. You can start doing fiber glass hoods/fenders but its a street car so you might want to only do FG trunk/hood so you still have the strength for fenders. (I'm not fimiliar w/FG so I am guessing they aren't as strong). There is ample information in this thread but maybe you should reread this thread.
1) cut the radiator support out
2) cut the floorboards out
3) cut the roof off
4) cut the frame from the rear of the rear tire back, and the front of the front tire foward
5) cut the car down the middle
6) get someone to transport it to the local junkyard
7)find new e30, start at #1
8) repeat process until you actually know what the purpose of this car isLast edited by Mastrcruse; 12-23-2007, 07:36 AM.Comment
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While freezing temps do make it easier than normal. Heat, is by far a better way to remove all the goo.
After weighing my car at a race in June (95º +), I discovered my car was 50 lbs over weight. So I popped open the trunk and in less than 3 minutes I had the sound deadening removed from the trunk. Wiped it down with some 3M adhesive remover and the job was done.
Total time... less than 10 minutes
Are you removing the stereo?
If so, there are several items you can remove from the trunk. There's an amp and antenna motor (if equipped)
If you install harnesses (which I hope you are) you can remove all the old belts.
Be very cautious about cutting wires. The weight savings is minimal so I suggest you leave them in. However... if you are like me and don't always take peoples advice, be sure you know where everything begin and ends before you cut it.
Label all wires.
There are some wires that run through that amp in the rear that have nothing to do with audio. If I remember correctly, they are part of your brake lights or reverse lights? :roll:
If you are removing the center console, you'll need to relocate you window switches. They can go where the speaker dial, hazard, ac and defrost buttons used to go. In order to get the passenger switch to reach that far, you will need to lengthen the wire. If you delete the window lock switch, you will need to do a wiring bypass to close that circuit.
You may try looking for additional info in the "Preparing to Participate" section of the Spec E30 board.
Good Luck
Scott///M | 1988 325is | 2004 Z71 Suburban | 2003 325iComment
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The car doesn't have any radio in it. I haven't taken a look yet to see if there are even speakers in the car. It's a non-amp'd setup, the car was a base model '86 325. No hi-fi sound, no power sunroof, no cruise, etc. I haven't decided yet if I want to go removing wiring or not.
I'm not installing harnesses because at the moment, I'm running stock cloth sport seats. If infact I do buy seats for this car, then yes, I'll buy a harness bar and harnesses.
I do plan on removing the center console, but I plan on just zip-tying the power window switches in place somewhere close to where they are at stock. I'm sure I can find a suitable location that will keep them out of the way, and secured in place. And yes, believe me, I know all about the power window circuit breaker :) I'm thinking I will relocate the check control panel to somewhere in the dash, either near the radio location, or possibly right under there. Since I'll be removing the headliner, I don't want to keep that stupid thing up there, might as well put it somewhere useful. A friend has his zip-tied to rollcage, but alas, I don't have one of those :)
Thanks for the tips though!!!Comment
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It's much easier to drive faster if you are not trying to brace yourself against the center console or door with your legs. Just think about a cheap Corbeau reclinable, or even stock sport seat to hold you in. And CG-lock makes the stock belts a lot betterComment
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He means buy a racing seat and if you still want to use the stock belts, add on the CG-Lock to them. It helps.
-Erik
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Hmm. Never seen this before. I always tighten the belt as tight as possible to lock it into place anyways, I am never bracing myself against anything with the stock sport seats. Granted, racing seats would be better, but thats not the object of what I'm trying to do. I'm trying to spend $0 to get a little more speed out of this car via weight loss before I upgrade cars, thats it. Nothing more, nothing less.He means buy a racing seat and if you still want to use the stock belts, add on the CG-Lock to them. It helps.
-ErikLast edited by kendogg; 12-24-2007, 01:34 PM.Comment
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ah, misread and thought you said nonsports. sports work well for a while (my mechanism broke and it "leaned" and then after I upgraded to a recaro I noticed steering was easier than before with the stock sport).
but the cg-lock makes it a lot easier to get buckled in and ready to go, and your chest belt is free to move as you steer while your lap is held tight and your body is in place. just a cheap replacement to locking the belt on the gridComment
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Ken, I have a couple harnesses you can have in exchange for a little car help if you want. Schroth Rally 3s.Comment
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