Oil sender adapter plate for M20

[jvanhouten]

I forgot about Canton. I'll be installing an Accusump at some point and it was the Canton installation notes that got me to thinking about this. They do have a 22mm adaptor, which is what I think I need. Much better looking stuff than what Trans-Dapt sells.

That's the style adapter I use, but you need the one with 3/4-16 thread It's a lot more expensive than the cast ones commonly available, but I've see several of those split at the track which can have catastrophic consequences.

The confusing part for me is that the M20 (the ones equipped with oil coolers anyway), have a hole in the block - not a hollow stud. I'm thinking I'd have to cut the head off the hollow BMW bolt and screw it into the block so that I can attach one of these spin-on adapters?

What you do it put the adapter where the oil filter goes--you still need the oil filter/cooler manifold. To convert the stock oil cooler lines to AN fittings, I used 22 x 1.5 to AN-10 o-ring adapter in the manifold, retaining the stock oil cooler bypass.

Here's a pic of the setup attached to the block:


As you can see in the above pic, I used an M12 x 1.5 to AN-6 adapter to remote mount the oil pressure sender. With the heavy "barrel" of the sender hanging off a fairly narrow fitting, they have been known to crack/break both making the sender inoperable in the best case and dumping your oil out on the track in the worst. It's easy to relocate, so why not do it.

Here's a pic of the remote pressure sender next to the remote oil filter. I have it attached to a T fitting with a 30 psi sender for an idiot light. For oil temp, I have the sender tapped into the remote oil filter housing. The routing of the hoses is different now, this will give you an idea. I really like the rotated oil filter/cooler manifold. I don't know why I didn't think of that--duh!

[ScottL]

Thanks for those pics. That's almost what I want. I'd prefer to get rid of the stock oil cooler adapter, too, so the Canton piece would attach directly to the block.

What adapter size is that?

[Hallen]

I would not be hanging that heavy oil pressure sender off of an aluminum block...you're just asking for trouble.

Really?
The mount points he used with that bracket are for the A/C compressor which is a heck of a lot heavier than an oil pressure sender and vibrates a heck of a lot more. Why would hanging a little pressure sender using those mount points be a problem?

[moatilliatta]

I has canton.



I forget what the adapter is from, i believe a Chrysler something?

http://i6.photobucket.com/albums/y202/CruceE1Rubicon/d5471448.jpg

[mach schnell]

Does anyone make something like this for the M42?

[ScottL]

I forgot about Canton. I'll be installing an Accusump at some point and it was the Canton installation notes that got me to thinking about this. They do have a 22mm adaptor, which is what I think I need. Much better looking stuff than what Trans-Dapt sells.

The confusing part for me is that the M20 (the ones equipped with oil coolers anyway), have a hole in the block - not a hollow stud. I'm thinking I'd have to cut the head off the hollow BMW bolt and screw it into the block so that I can attach one of these spin-on adapters?

[Elephant]

Does anyone know who sells a bypass adaptor that fits the M20 block? I want to ditch the stock filter and run braided hose to a remote 4-port filter mount (2 large ports for cooler lines, 2 small ports for senders).

The remote mounts are easy to find, but I can't find seem to find a bypass adapter that fits the ring and bolt hole on the block. Trans-Dapt has a selection of adapters, but I'm not seeing what I need.

I'll check, my partner has been running a remote filter on his M20 for many years. I think the filter set up he uses is Canton but not positive.

Cheers.

[ScottL]

Does anyone know who sells a bypass adaptor that fits the M20 block? I want to ditch the stock filter and run braided hose to a remote 4-port filter mount (2 large ports for cooler lines, 2 small ports for senders).

The remote mounts are easy to find, but I can't find seem to find a bypass adapter that fits the ring and bolt hole on the block. Trans-Dapt has a selection of adapters, but I'm not seeing what I need.

[Elephant]

What do you mean by the "temp sender location on the bottom"? Do you mean the factory pressure sender location?

And do you have the part number for the VDO distribution block?

I like the idea of drilling the bolt. I think I may just do that. And idea how it comes out of the housing? I'm having trouble. Just yank on it a bit?

Sorry, I switched those around. The temp sender comes out of the drilled/tapped bolt and the oil pressure comes out of the factory location off the VDO block.

Since I use the SPA gauges (SPA Technique Dual Gauges) they have their own warning light (either internal, external, or both) so I don't need to T for a warning light additionally. If you want to do that you'll need a T in there which is easy.

Get some AN stainless braided line and remote mount the pressure sender on the fender or somewhere away from the engine. This assumes you use the typical style as pictured previously which are uber heavy.

I don't have the VDO block P/N on me and I'm not sure if I have them in stock right now. I normally keep a couple in stock but I'd have to check. I'm out of town until later today so I wouldn't know for sure until I return.

Cheers.

[lifeiskaos]

http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/oil_pipe_lines.html

i used part number tp6 for my turbo oil feed. ~16 shipped. it'll work just fine for a gauge too

[bmwpower]

I would not be hanging that heavy oil pressure sender off of an aluminum block...you're just asking for trouble. Remote mount is good of course the but one purpose is to specifically avoid something like this. Not good practice.

What we've done us use the temp sender location on the bottom along with the VDO distribution block for temp. For pressure we simply drilled and tapped the bolt that holds the filter head onto the block. Cheap, easy, very effective.

Cheers.

What do you mean by the "temp sender location on the bottom"? Do you mean the factory pressure sender location?

And do you have the part number for the VDO distribution block?

I like the idea of drilling the bolt. I think I may just do that. And idea how it comes out of the housing? I'm having trouble. Just yank on it a bit?

[Elephant]

I would not be hanging that heavy oil pressure sender off of an aluminum block...you're just asking for trouble. Remote mount is good of course the but one purpose is to specifically avoid something like this. Not good practice.

What we've done us use the temp sender location on the bottom along with the VDO distribution block for temp. For pressure we simply drilled and tapped the bolt that holds the filter head onto the block. Cheap, easy, very effective.

Cheers.

[bmwpower]

Any idea how to get the hollow bolt out of the housing?
I didn't want to force it.

[Mtriple]

I used this one from VAC motorsports and it works fantastic.

http://store.nexternal.com/shared/St...t=products.asp

plugs in where the stock sending unit goes.

Well done and clean install! I have been trying to decide how I want to do this cleanly and you just figured it out for me. Thank you for posting this!

For us turbo guys, it is actually very helpful to know when the oil is fully warmed up before we rag on it and when the oil is fully cooled before shutdown.

agreed.

[DCColegrove]

Holy shit, you flipped the oil filter adapter around. Didn't even think of doing that!

Gonna check that VAC part out.

Did the same thing on my '90... Gets the oil cooler lines away from the headers and makes it so you can get the filter out...