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    Originally posted by WarHammer 2/1 View Post
    Thanks for the recommendations on the machine shops. While getting the head ready to take down to Robello racing, I noticed the rocker nicked the cam lobe also so I just bought this complete head off Ebay.

    Think this was a good buy?

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Cylinder...461820&vxp=mtr
    why do people post adds like that. a simple easy to read text would make me not hate them.

    Dont buy it. he did not machined. the valve seals were not replaced. it's worth $200 tops in that condition. *ALL heads must be resurfaced before installing* it only takes 3/1000" for it to leak.

    i have an 885 that if you are gonna rebuild would be fine. still attached to a running engine. for $150 or you can have the whole engine for $250
    Last edited by Cabriolet; 10-29-2013, 02:06 PM.
    Much wow
    I hate 4 doors

    Comment


      Originally posted by WarHammer 2/1 View Post
      Thanks for the recommendations on the machine shops. While getting the head ready to take down to Robello racing, I noticed the rocker also nicked the cam lobe so I just bought this complete head off Ebay.

      Think it was a good buy?

      http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Cylinder...461820&vxp=mtr
      How are the valve seals, seats and guides? Sure it came off a running motor, but that means nothing. You might as well send it out and have it refreshed so you don't have to do it again.

      Will
      '59 Alfa Romeo 101.02 Giulietta Sprint
      '69 Alfa Romeo 105.51 1750 GTV (R.I.P)
      '69 Datsun 2000 roadster Vintage race car
      '88 BMW M3

      Comment


        Originally posted by oliver.r View Post
        epoxy primer usually isn't very good at filling in cracks, you might want to do a bit more research on that
        Ok, The diy he wrote up isn't terribly clear. I'll read through it again and see if I can figure out what he did.
        sigpic

        Comment


          Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
          why do people post adds like that. a simple easy to read text would make me not hate them.

          Dont buy it. he did not machined. the valve seals were not replaced. it's worth $200 tops in that condition. *ALL heads must be resurfaced before installing* it only takes 3/1000" for it to leak.

          i have an 885 that if you are gonna rebuild would be fine. still attached to a running engine. for $150 or you can have the whole engine for $250
          I didn't think it was a big deal since the engine it's going on has 230,000 miles on it but I'll cancel the order since its not worth the price.

          Comment


            Originally posted by WarHammer 2/1 View Post
            I didn't think it was a big deal since the engine it's going on has 230,000 miles on it but I'll cancel the order since its not worth the price.
            all m20b25s are dead at 230k.
            get new rings, bearings, and have a head refreshed. there's not reason to put a fresh top engine on that. it's like putting a bandaid on a severed arm.
            a total refresh can be done for ~$1500 and give you more power than you would ever guess

            also valve seal MUST be changed if the head has been cleaned/tanked. you wont pass somg bc the car will smoke.
            Much wow
            I hate 4 doors

            Comment


              my car has 250k and it runs fine, it's my DD pile so I don't care much about it and an 'E'
              "I wanna see da boat movie"
              "I got a tree on my house"

              Comment


                Originally posted by Thizzelle View Post
                my car has 250k and it runs fine, it's my DD pile so I don't care much about it and an 'E'
                Will, there is a huge difference between an E and I in terms of wear. i've seen etas well into 350k before showing signs of wear. the I however, the bearing and rings are always toast at 200k. not to mention what the valves look like.

                gary can attest to the difference. we took out his 250k motor and dropped in a 50k motor and it was literally night and day between the power differences. It's easily a 10% power difference. and this is comparing identical m20b25s
                Much wow
                I hate 4 doors

                Comment


                  Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
                  Will, there is a huge difference between an E and I in terms of wear. i've seen etas well into 350k before showing signs of wear. the I however, the bearing and rings are always toast at 200k. not to mention what the valves look like.

                  gary can attest to the difference. we took out his 250k motor and dropped in a 50k motor and it was literally night and day between the power differences. It's easily a 10% power difference. and this is comparing identical m20b25s
                  Is that due to the higher rpm's the I engine can hit?

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by WarHammer 2/1 View Post
                    Is that due to the higher rpm's the I engine can hit?
                    basically yes.

                    full rebuild:
                    an eta can go 350k
                    an I can go 250k
                    an S14 can go about 150-170k

                    this is the same reason you dont run a sport bike engine more than about 50k.


                    Im sorry but i sold my 325i so you cant drive a fresh car. and my s14 is nearing rebuild at 123k and my wife's project car isnt done yet (3 weeks)
                    Much wow
                    I hate 4 doors

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by WarHammer 2/1 View Post
                      Thanks for the recommendations on the machine shops. While getting the head ready to take down to Robello racing, I noticed the rocker also nicked the cam lobe so I just bought this complete head off Ebay.

                      Think it was a good buy?

                      http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-Cylinder...461820&vxp=mtr
                      You could just do this??
                      1988 325 non-letter Seta "Bronzit"
                      1991 325ic "Laguna Green" (Sold)
                      1993 325i "Laguna Green/Silver" (Sold)
                      1998 528i "Artic Silver" m-sport(totalled by drunk driver)
                      2000 528i Titansilber/gray m-sport
                      2000 528i Titansilber/black m-sport(sold)
                      2001 525i Anthracite m-sport(sold)
                      2013 750i Black/Black m-sport "Beast"

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
                        all m20b25s are dead at 230k.
                        get new rings, bearings, and have a head refreshed. there's not reason to put a fresh top engine on that. it's like putting a bandaid on a severed arm.
                        a total refresh can be done for ~$1500 and give you more power than you would ever guess

                        also valve seal MUST be changed if the head has been cleaned/tanked. you wont pass somg bc the car will smoke.
                        What do you mean by total refresh..total rebuild?


                        What's an m20 rebuild costing these days?

                        Comment


                          Originally posted by Cabriolet View Post
                          basically yes.

                          full rebuild:
                          an eta can go 350k
                          an I can go 250k
                          an S14 can go about 150-170k

                          this is the same reason you dont run a sport bike engine more than about 50k.


                          Im sorry but i sold my 325i so you cant drive a fresh car. and my s14 is nearing rebuild at 123k and my wife's project car isnt done yet (3 weeks)
                          Hmm I wonder if its worth swapping my 150k eta shortblock into the new car. I would lose a 1/2 point of compression but I would get more miles out of it.

                          Btw this car to me is just a DD and that's about it. I don't want to get too deep into it cuz the money is better spent finishing my cobra and '66 mustang.

                          Originally posted by wilholl View Post
                          You could just do this??
                          http://www.bimmerheads.com/
                          Yea I've seen their site. Very nice products but I wasn't looking to spend damn near $1000 on a stock head for this car.

                          Comment


                            Also..anybod here adjusted their valves before?seem straightforward but time consuming?better to have somebody do it? Who's good in the San Jose area for e30 service repair?

                            Comment


                              it's easy, takes half an hour. there are numerous DIYs online.
                              cars beep boop

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by blacksteel View Post
                                Also..anybod here adjusted their valves before?seem straightforward but time consuming?better to have somebody do it? Who's good in the San Jose area for e30 service repair?
                                Just did this about a month ago. Super easy, here's a write up on it:

                                Stop paying your mechanic to adjust your valves - it's really not that difficult. We'll show you how to on the 3-Series E30 six-cylinder engines.

                                Comment

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