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    Sitting here waiting for an engine stand so I can get down into it. Found some decent stuff at the junkyard today, but I'll hold off for better opportunities.

    I'm not rushing building it. Pretty much still developing a plan on the build. Definitely going big though.

    WTB NorCal: Z4 shifter + misc. parts

    Comment


      I may or may not lap the valves. What is the benefit?

      I have not done any work to the car lately, so next time I will hittup you giys.

      Comment


        Originally posted by RUFFLZ View Post
        just bondo it lbc
        Yes bondo it long beach city breh

        1991 BMW 318i (Old Shell RIP, Now Being Re-shelled & Reborn)
        1983 Peugeot 505 STI
        1992 Volvo 240 Wagon
        2009 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD

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          Originally posted by mbonanni View Post
          I may or may not lap the valves. What is the benefit?

          I have not done any work to the car lately, so next time I will hittup you giys.
          Found this for you. Read a little bit of it and seemed like it might help you out.

          http://www.e30tech.com/forum/archive...p/t-92607.html

          WTB NorCal: Z4 shifter + misc. parts

          Comment


            Originally posted by Pantless Spency View Post
            sounds like most skateboarders,


            lapping valves is super basic man, the only hard part is disassembly/assembly of the valve train, but even that it pretty simple.
            i could help/show you how to do it.
            If you have a cylinder head this far apart (completely disassembled) the valves and valves seats should be ground. Then, then valves are lapped in. It's not as simple as you make it sound. Of course, you also want to have the head pressure tested and resurfaced during this time.
            BimmerHeads
            Classic BMW Specialists
            Santa Clarita, CA

            www.BimmerHeads.com

            Comment


              Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
              If you have a cylinder head this far apart (completely disassembled) the valves and valves seats should be ground. Then, then valves are lapped in. It's not as simple as you make it sound. Of course, you also want to have the head pressure tested and resurfaced during this time.
              If the motro has 150k miles, and I mainly just want the motor to look better and have new gaskets is this all necessary??

              How much time/money do you guys think it will cost?

              Comment


                Originally posted by mbonanni View Post
                If the motro has 150k miles, and I mainly just want the motor to look better and have new gaskets is this all necessary??

                How much time/money do you guys think it will cost?
                If you're removing a cylinder head it needs to be resurfaced before it goes back on, PERIOD. Anybody who tells you differently is doing their work half-assed. If there was nothing wrong with the head there's no reason to be grinding valves etc but if you've got the cash, it's worth it to freshen things up.
                BimmerHeads
                Classic BMW Specialists
                Santa Clarita, CA

                www.BimmerHeads.com

                Comment


                  Okay, am doing the head gasket, so I guess I should be doing it.

                  Any idea on how much a resurface will run?

                  I do not think I will grind valves due to time. I want to get this car on the road. If I knew I was keeping the m20 forever then I would definitely put more money into it, but I am desperate for an m30 once everything on the car is situated.

                  Comment


                    got mine resurfaced for 60 bucks here in napa,
                    shouldnt run you more than 80.
                    and i chose not to have it pressure tested, valves and seats were not ground.
                    i lapped the valves myself and replaced the valve stem seals.
                    pretty much what i would deem a mild top end refresh.

                    Comment


                      Well, that seems plausible. I will see what my dad has to say. I will for sure get it resurfaced.

                      When replacing suspension rubber would you guys suggest oem rubber or poly?

                      Comment


                        I like poly for the subframe and trailing arms. Front control arm bushings I like OEM E30 M3.
                        BimmerHeads
                        Classic BMW Specialists
                        Santa Clarita, CA

                        www.BimmerHeads.com

                        Comment


                          Alright cool. I think Danny said the rubber isn't horrible, but I feel that a couple extra hundred for the better ride would be worth it.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by MR 325 View Post
                            I like poly for the subframe and trailing arms. Front control arm bushings I like OEM E30 M3.
                            What's the reasoning behind this?
                            The first car I ever rode in was an e30

                            Originally posted by Cabriolet
                            Wish you the best and hope you don't remember anything after 10pm.



                            1992 Mauritiusblau Vert
                            2011 Alpinweiss 335is coupe

                            2002 540i/6 Black/Black
                            2003 GSX-R 750 (RIP)

                            Comment


                              Guys anyone ever think about selling their e30 to Europeans?
                              It seems as if they pay more these days as most of their cars are rusty or scrapped

                              1991 BMW 318i (Old Shell RIP, Now Being Re-shelled & Reborn)
                              1983 Peugeot 505 STI
                              1992 Volvo 240 Wagon
                              2009 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Sport 4WD

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Vivek View Post
                                What's the reasoning behind this?
                                I like the poly in the rear because it seems to "tighten" up the drivetrain since there's less flex under load. Poly for the front CABs just ends up making noise though.
                                BimmerHeads
                                Classic BMW Specialists
                                Santa Clarita, CA

                                www.BimmerHeads.com

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