Wtb afm

[supkev]

Car sputters while on throttle when cold occasionally revs will drop on idle my friend who was a mechanic thinks its either my AFM or afm sensor. Could it be other problems? Note when warmed up it doesn't do that :/

[QUKBMER]

I am having the same problem with my project car right now.

[Ism20craze30]

I'm having that same problem but I switched out afms but it's still doing the same thing I think the Tps sensor is the issue

[QUKBMER]

Mine cranks but wont fire and then lightly chugs and dies and back fires,several times it would take 5 minutes or so to get it to run using the throttle pedal.Once its warm no problem,holds idle and runs great.

[Ism20craze30]

Mine will undergo hesitation under heavy throttle at times

[supkev]

My car never starts unless I give it gas that doesn't bother me. I can't go above 2k when its cold not like I like to rev it high or anything, I have a high diff. It sputters above 2k but once warm its all fine. My friend said it could also be crankshaft sensor?

[Gregs///M]

Be sure to verify other electrical sensors first, as it can be something much cheaper to replace. Verify your ICV is cleaned and in working condition, it should be cleaned periodically as a stuck ICV can cause difficult starts and immediate stall. It should buzz with the ignition on but motor off.

Also verify your TPS is sending signal to DME to control ICV. You should hear a small single click once the throttle valve is "slightly" lifted off its resting position. That is the micro switch that triggers the ECU that the car is actually at idle speed. If its misadjusted or broken, your car will never know its at a stop.

Also, coolant temperature sensor, not sender should be checked electrically or replaced. Always good to replace this sensor if its really old.

[supkev]

Be sure to verify other electrical sensors first, as it can be something much cheaper to replace. Verify your ICV is cleaned and in working condition, it should be cleaned periodically as a stuck ICV can cause difficult starts and immediate stall. It should buzz with the ignition on but motor off.

Also verify your TPS is sending signal to DME to control ICV. You should hear a small single click once the throttle valve is "slightly" lifted off its resting position. That is the micro switch that triggers the ECU that the car is actually at idle speed. If its misadjusted or broken, your car will never know its at a stop.

Also, coolant temperature sensor, not sender should be checked electrically or replaced. Always good to replace this sensor if its really old.

thanks I will check these out in the mean time I'm still interested in a AFM.

[supkev]

anyone have a working AFM laying around?

[mkcman17]

check cps and injector harness plug.

i DO need an AFM though.

[JFarhanbod]

i have an afm for sale, its from a 87 325is. $40

[e30trooper]

i have an afm for sale, its from a 87 325is. $40

never got that pm back buddy :loco:

[IRON-E]

I got one for sale, it's yours if you buy me a chipotle burrito and a drink.

[mkcman17]

I got one for sale, it's yours if you buy me a chipotle burrito and a drink.

dibs? i'll take you on a date anytime gordo <3

[einstein57]

I have a spare afm as well. I have found that the car will start and idle perfect with out any afm connected. Try to start your car without it. If it starts and runs better with out it then with it you know yours is bad. Alot of the symptoms can be caused by a bad ecu. Sometime the harness will wick up moisture and corrode the ecu.