Originally posted by Roland H
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Originally posted by lambo View PostLets say you can't modify them in any way shape or form. Still the same choice?
I can park the E36 outside, in a grocery store parking lot, etc without having an ulcer.
Oh, and I'd have a lot more money in the bank to spend on enjoying it or other aspects of life if I had the E36 and not the E30.
When it comes down to it, they are nothing more than machines that are there to serve their owners. Once they start owning you, that's when you have a problem.
I'm glad I have had the opportunity to own my E30 M3, it's a beautiful piece of motorsport history that satisfies me in many ways, but I can't think of many ways that it outshines any of my E36s that I've owned, or the E36 chassis in general. The E30 M3 is not vastly superior to the standard E30, just like the E36 M3 is not vastly superior to the standard E36. Different engines and minor tweaks here and there, but that's it.
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Originally posted by Roland H View PostSettle for nothing less!
Because most of the people in this sub-section have E36s, not E30s.
Oh, and I because have an E30.
Originally posted by fsmtnbiker View PostI'm with Roland. Mostly because I can't stand the interior and electronics of an E30 (or almost any car built in the 70s/80s).
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Whats up guys new to the forum just bought my second e30 after a 7 year gap in between owning one. Just picked up a 325ix off craigslist has a new tc and axleshafts, and obnoxious mini cooper wheels(some of you might have seen it) I was just wondering what type of suspension upgrades you guys recommend for here in CO dealing with the mtns, and dirt roads i dont wanna go to low. Do any of you have the H&R springs? are they that much of a drop? i want to stiffen up the ride just not drop it if possible...
Also any thing i should do to the car immediately? has a new timing belt,no leaks, sips oil like all do, interior is good(need front seats if anyone has any) im looking into the Dinan chip but any other suggestions would be much appreciated
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I would do the timing belt/tensioner/waterpump regardless....unless you really trust the PO or they had it done at a shop with receipts.
Honestly I wouldn't drop an iX at all, it defeats the purpose of it. Some new shocks could help the ride, especially if they are worn. Maybe add some larger sway bars if you really wanted to.
- E30, DSM, Golf R, Mazda 3 Skyactiv
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I saw that ix with cooper wheels, looks like a solid car. My iX is lowered with H&Rs and Bilsteins, poly swaybar, it handles great but isn't all that practical in deep powder. I love it especially in blizzard conditions but it isn't usually like that. Not a whole lot you can do to stiffen the stock stuff. Maybe stiffer springs, but most of the time that drops it.318iS Track Rat :nice: www.drive4corners.com
'86 325iX 3.1 Stroker Turbo '86 S38B36 325
No one makes this car anymore. The government won't allow them, normal people won't buy them. So it's up to us: the freaks, the weirdos, the informed. To buy them, to appreciate them, and most importantly, to drive them.
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yeah I just don't even bother arguing with the E36 nut-swingers in here, mostly because it's a matter opinion as to which car is better.
As for my opinion, the E30 looks better than the E36, it is smaller, easier to work on, has a robust interior that doesn't fall apart. But hey I like E36s too, they are great parts donor cars!
And also, I would sure HOPE the E36 would outperform the E30 in every way, it is the next generation 3-series from the E30 after all, so by very definition it ought to be more advanced. But why do you think there is such a huge following for the first gen camaro? The new camaro outperforms the old in every way...
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ya thats exactly how i feel, i know the right strut is bad no travel at all can push down on fender and no movement whatsoever, so i just want to replace all struts/shocks, springs dont look bad so i guess ill stick with stock. And sorry im new to this whole car thing been driving a truck for the last 6 years, i assume sway bars will limit body roll a bit? i just want a more aggressive body roll is pretty bad im a decent driver and have been very unhappy with the handling but i assume functioning struts will greatly improve this. Also how would one know if the timing belt is starting to go? it looks new and in decent shape has a good tension with limited movement
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You can't really come to a conclusion on handling with a strut that is seized. However, an iX with stock springs won't be a handling machine so don't get your hopes up too much. Depending on your goals with the car you will also want to replace all of the rubber bushings in the car that are still original and worn out. Control am bushing, upper shock mounts, sway bar bushings, end links, tie rods, rear subframe bushings, trailing arm bushings. That will "tighten" up the suspension a bit, or at least to proper OEM spec. Sway bars will help reduce body roll to some extent, but stiffer springs will be more effective at that.
The timing belt can fail in many ways. It is really cheap parts and better just to do it and be done with it.
- E30, DSM, Golf R, Mazda 3 Skyactiv
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Originally posted by Roland H View PostFrom someone who's owned a few, the worst E36 is still worlds better than the best E30.
i thought that e36 were more complicated and unreliable and unable to be repaired without a real shop where as the e30 could be repaired and diagnosed with basic tools and knowledge.
am i missing out on an e36 experience because i'm dumb?Originally posted by der affeWhat are you going to start a thread about next? "My woman's skinny jeans chaffe my special parts, f*ck skin irritation"
Originally posted by navid41691And no, I use lotion so I don't have to worry about skin irritation.
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Originally posted by WhyNot View Posti am visiting family in fort collins so i figured i could chime in to this colorado topic..
i thought that e36 were more complicated and unreliable and unable to be repaired without a real shop where as the e30 could be repaired and diagnosed with basic tools and knowledge.
am i missing out on an e36 experience because i'm dumb?
No, E36s are plenty reliable and easy to work on, no need for a shop at all, not by a long shot. Sure they are a little more complex, but that is what happens in development of newer automotive technology from one chassis to another.
The difficulty of fixing an E30 vs an E36 is comparable generally, but the E36 falling a little on the more complex/difficult side than an E30, but not my much.
And the "E36 experience" is a good one, as they generally outperform E30s, and that is always a good experience.
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The biggest difference between the E30 and E36, in my experience, is:
With an E30, a check light comes on, it doesn't run quite right, or makes a funny noise, and all these things are attributed to the car having a 'personality.'
With an E36, a check light comes on, it doesn't run quite right, or makes a funny noise, and the car is a 'shitbox.'
No timing belts in an E36, a plus in my book. Not much is hard to do on them, especially once you've done it once. Interior is a little harder to take apart because it's assembled from the factory with hidden clips, screws, hopes, dreams, and a little wood glue.
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