Welcome to Utar

[801coppertop]

Sweet I'm doing finance too. About half way through almost to the u from slcc. Toying with double majoring in accounting and finance because its only one more semester! That's cools I guess great minds think alike. On a side note who would take there temp in the ass. Even my dog tries to bite the vet when that happens. Lol.

[NKRoberts]

Haha were just messing around. I have been thinking about double majoring as well in accounting and finance as well. Just seems so east to get both. If you do let me know how it is

[KEL]

It was a cold ride to work this morning. Car blew the fuse to the heater blower motor and all of the instrument cluster gauges (besides speedo). Didn't have a fuse or time to stop and grab one before work.

[NKRoberts]

It was a cold ride to work this morning. Car blew the fuse to the heater blower motor and all of the instrument cluster gauges (besides speedo). Didn't have a fuse or time to stop and grab one before work.

you get it fixed?

[DatUtahGuy]

Where is the fuse to the heater, my heat died a while back but I never got around to fixing it because the car has been sitting on hibernation.

[Sagaris]

Do you mean that the blower doesn't work? or do you mean that the fan blows out cold air? if the air is cold then the heater core is clogged or the heater blend valve is stuck/bad. If the blower doesnt work then I dont know exactly which fuse it is, but luckily all the fuses are just in 1 location unlike most Japanese cars where you will find fuses and relays in obscure locations. If you dont have a continuity tester I suggest buying one. It makes checking for bad fuses much faster and easier. Repeated removal of fuses and relays can loosen the sockets which they fit in. Diagnosing a car that wont start because the EFI relay is loose in its socket isnt exactly the easiest thing to do (I speak from experience).

[DatUtahGuy]

Not a fuse then :(

[KEL]

It turned out not to be a fuse. I just happened to blow fuse #10 pretty much at the same time the heater took a shit on me. The heater blower comes on for about 3 seconds when I first start the car but only on the highest fan setting. The resistor is bad. I have one but just haven't had time to replace it.

[DatUtahGuy]

So I took out the heater controls and while messing with it, my heat comes on but not as strong as before, Im sure is not the core, where is the blend valve? Its lukewarm at best on the hottest setting.

[Sagaris]

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...14&hg=64&fg=15

Could it be #16? I thought I could see the little metal linkage rod moving when I turned the heat/cold knob by the heater core through the drivers side footwell without any interior pieces removed. That could have been the linkage for the duct settings though.

[DatUtahGuy]

well the linkage is on the passenger side and #16 seems to be protruding from the radiator towards the drivers side, unless that diagram is mirrored.

I've put it all back together now, just wanted to make sure that there wasn't anything wrong with the linkage to the valve, that's fine so I guess it will be a clogged valve perhaps

edit: the radiator fits horizontally, so I think I know what I'm looking at in that diagram... doh!

[801coppertop]

Maybe even could be a thermostat. My heat only blew lukewarm at best until i changed the thermostat, also its only a $10 part at pelican and super easy to do (1991 m20b25) Maybe?

[KEL]

Is this anyone on here? Has Washington plates.



I seen it in Provo today and it looks nice :)

[DatUtahGuy]

I think I've seen that car around the Gateway, maybe I'm way off.

on a side note, I'm going up to Orem for work tomorrow night, if anyone is interested in getting coffee or a burger and talking cars or something I will probably be available after 7~ish

[KEL]

What do you do for work?