Bronzit E30 - OBDII S52 shaved bay - weekend/autox toy - Journey

[2mAn]

[ATTACH]102178[/ATTACH]

Is that bent one the M42 throttle cable?

[FreedomM3]

Do work!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

HT-10's will be a bit too aggressive on the street but do-able.

Gotcha

Nice build thread! :up:

Thank you!!

nice! getting ready to do the shift pin mod in my ZF also.
I have the parts, just no time.
Let us know how it goes!

It was very very easy. Just read the DIYs and have all of the correct tools on hand. You can rent the blind hole bearing/bushing puller from autozone for free. Made the job a breeze. Don't just smash a screwdriver in there to deform the bushing and pull it out; that's stupid (one DIY instructed that method )

Is that bent one the M42 throttle cable?

Nope, that's the e36 cable. The one below it is the original e30 cable.

Do work!

You're not kidding. I haven't tackled a project of this magnitude since I did the swap.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I already got irritated with the android tapatalk image uploading so I am trying out google/picasa since I can upload directly from my phone to picasa/google. If anyone has a better solution for image sharing/storing/uploading please let me know


Anyways, here is the zf320





The guy I bought it from also gave me the reverse and 1st detents because he said they were stiff and he planned to replace them. I would've liked to do all of the pins/detents but since this was an emergency I didn't have enough advanced notice to buy all that stuff :(





Also finally bought a puller. I really should've gotten one of these a long time ago. It would've come in handy many times. I already used it like 8 times in one weekend between pulling the output flanges and pulling CSBs from driveshafts.





The OD of the sealing surface of the output flanges is the same on the g260 and zf320





But the spline count is not. That would've made this SO easy if I could just swap output flanges and retain the e30 DS. Oh well.





I replaced the output shaft seal but on install, it went in crooked and I couldn't lift it back out without damaging it, so I had no choice but to push it in further until it leveled out flat. I hope it doesn't leak. I got a spare seal just in case I had to change it again.





The trans drain plug after removal. There's some small metal flakes





This is the correct tool to use for pulling the bushings and pins out of the transmission. Don't do some bullshit "jam a screwdriver and deform the bushing and rip it out crap". That will destroy the bore of the bushing/pin which will hurt the clearances between bore-bushing-pin and kind of negate replacing the bushing to begin with. The correct tool is available for free rental from autozone and other stores I am sure (sorry for the irritation, you'll understand why in a moment). This tool made removing the bushings and pins pretty much idiot proof and stupid easy.





This is why you don't jam a screwdriver in there. Apparently someone already replaced these bushings via that method... no wonder they were needing replacement again. I could see/feel the bits of marred aluminum protruding into the bore which most definitely hurt the clearance and performance of the detents.








Here is a picture of the bushings after removal. Clearly they had been replaced not long ago, and you can see why they failed prematurely. The anti friction coating wasn't "worn away" because of age/usage, it was scraped off due to what I assume would be the clearances being way too tight due to the damage to the bore. This pissed me off when I saw it. So unnecessary.

I took some fine grit emery cloth wrapped around my pinky finger and sanded the high spots to try to fix the damage. I sanded until I couldn't see/feel any more protrusions.





Here they are all finished and sealed up. The tools I have to press the new bushings and seals made it a piece of cake.





This is what the flywheel looked like after I removed the g260 and the pressure plate.





And this is what the pressure plate looked like. You can really see the oily/greasy residue on the inner section of the surface. Initially I thought this was all due to the g260 leaking from within the bellhousing (it was leaking badly, but not from the input seal - I replaced that during the engine swap). Now however, I am getting paranoid again because I still see some oil/fluid dripping from the bellhousing.... I am thinking it might be oil leaking past the flywheel bolts? I am so paranoid now and I can't remember if I used locktite on them or not and my dumbass decided not to check them when the trans was off :stupidsign:





Anyways, I needed a new clutch disk since the original one was toasted from fluid contamination. So while I waited for BMA to ge tthe part in the afternoon, I decided to tackle something else that had been bothering me for ages... the wiring behind the dashboard/driver side footwell





There was still a bunch of leftover wiring from after I removed the PO's shitty alarm. It blows my mind the kind of hack job work some people do (or some shops).





Looking much better already. Amazing what some patience and zip ties can do.





Some of the crap I removed





Here's the pressure plate after cleaning and very light sanding





And the flywheel





Here's my workbench with all of the "projects" spread out. There are actually 4 going on simultaneously. Kinda reminds me of an "I SPY" book photo. Organized chaos.





Decided to drop a z3m shifter in there while ti was apart. That's an upgrade to the e36 lever I had, which was an upgrade to the OE e30 lever. I have the z3m shifter in my e36 and it's badass.





Here it is installed. Also another look at the "budget" DTM style carrier. That's an OEM early model sheet metal carrier that was cut up and bolted to the trans tunnel. You would't believe how much of a massive difference it made. I'll be doing this on my e36 as well.





Looking better under there. I flipped that big module DME looking thingy (What is that?) so it's mounted upside down now to make space for a power distribution and ground distribution blocks.





Drained my catch can. Looks like mostly condensation mixed with oil





Work in progress





Both cars are on stands. I couldn't get an e36 driveshaft in time for the zf320 swap so I had to rob it from the e36 to get the e30 back on the road :(









e30 vs e36 CSB - the e30 CSB is needed and has to be mounted in the normal orientation for the zf320 (it's mounted backwards with the g260 and 24v swap)





Night time. I work late.





Making a mess. Started installing the power distribution block, ground distribution block and relays. I also removed all the wiring for my aux gauges and hardwired usb charger since I did a poor job wiring them when I initially installed them. Now I will run them through the distribution block the right way.









Pulled the DS out of the e30





Pulled the bearing





Here are a few shift levers for comparison sake. Right to left: z3m, IE ssk, e36, e30. I picked up the IE ssk because there was still some play in the z3m lever (even though it was brand new). It's due to the design of the lever itself - the bottom and top half are bonded together with rubber filling that whole fat section which leads to some play (about 1/4" at the top of the lever) and it irritated the shit out of me, so I picked up the IE piece. It is height adjustable and totally solid with bearings in the bottom joint. Though it's not quite as short as the z3m, the difference is pretty much negligible. It's a nice piece.





Back to wiring, this purple/white thicker wire off of the ignition wiring is what I tapped to switch the relays on/off. It's hot with the key in accessory/run/start.





This whole wiring project was instigated by two factors. The first was that I never liked it from the start; it was a mess, and I knew I could clean it up and make it better and wanted to install the power distribution for all the extra accessories. The second was because I had been having trouble getting accurate readings from my water temp gauge, which I suspected was due to my using much too small gauge wire, and poor wiring technique. Initially, I was using only one 20awg ground and one 20awg power to supply all three gauges. Those ground and power wires were also shared between a phone charger and my stereo no wonder it wasn't reading right. I also replaced the water gauge just to be safe so I wouldn't have to take it apart again in the future.





Now all the gauges are supplied by individual 14awg ground and power which is fused and switched on via the power distribution block.





What do you do if you break a connector plug? Smear it with gobs of silicone of course (thanks PO)!! (I replaced the brake light switch)





And here is how it looks now! Much MUCH better. I'll be capping the exposed positive power terminals with heat shrink etc. I ran out while I was halfway through. It's in the mail.



I also upgraded my front speakers again. I've had these sitting around for months. The old front speakers will serve as new rear speakers in my e36.

[Javier h]

I admire your work on the detents. Still need to do mine but I have been waiting some else to do like an output seal etc. The car is not leaking a drop so for now, I have learned to live with it.

[Codym42]

This car has come a long way!

Great job on the wiring. How did you mount the distribution block? Double sided tape? I might have to do something like that one day. I've got all my gauges tapped into the stereo wiring...

I'm running the same pioneer speakers in my e30 and have been very pleased with them.

[2mAn]

I remember when I was in my 20s and had this kind of energy. Now Im "old" and admire the youngsters haha Nice work.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

I admire your work on the detents. Still need to do mine but I have been waiting some else to do like an output seal etc. The car is not leaking a drop so for now, I have learned to live with it.

I feel you on that. The g260 was really awful by the time I pulled it, so stiff through the gears, but I couldn't justify it until it died. Honestly though, it wasn't such a big deal. If I had had all of the parts I needed, I could've done it in less than a day.

This car has come a long way!

Great job on the wiring. How did you mount the distribution block? Double sided tape? I might have to do something like that one day. I've got all my gauges tapped into the stereo wiring...

I'm running the same pioneer speakers in my e30 and have been very pleased with them.

Thanks man! Yes, it's 3m extreme double sided tape or something like that. That stuff STICKS!

Glad to hear you liek those speakers, I still need to readjust the amp for them, but they sure look good!

I remember when I was in my 20s and had this kind of energy. Now Im "old" and admire the youngsters haha Nice work.

Thanks Simon, its all relative ;) I've gotta take advantage of it while I can!

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Here's a little project I have been dying to do.


Do a little chopping, gutting and mix some jbweld.






A little action with an exacto knife





Smear the jbweld all over the place





BOOM you get a fully stealth and hidden hardwired USB charger that doesn't take up any of your precious space or ruin the look of your beautiful interior. The USB wire gets coiled up inside the tray when not used. Perfect :D





If you didn't know it was there, you might not even notice

[TimKninja]

does the Early model console shifter Mod raise up the shifter anymore? I love the IE SSKs, I put an older style one in a customers car and I loved the fact the throw was so short, but it was still so tall. I really want a taller shifter.

[pandaboo911]

Damn this reminds me I have to do my CSB. Are you sure the e30 CSB is used? I used an e36 CSB mounted in reverse on my zf320 when I did my swap and i think it's the source of my driveshaft knocking against the trans tunnel.

Also did you get a chance to listen to those pioneers? I have no front tweeters and I'm lacking the power up front because of it. Right now it's just some 20 year old Japanese paper cones in there and they can't keep up


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[efficient]

Nice progress. I also was going to ask how are those pioneer speaker?

[Sh3rpak!ng]

does the Early model console shifter Mod raise up the shifter anymore? I love the IE SSKs, I put an older style one in a customers car and I loved the fact the throw was so short, but it was still so tall. I really want a taller shifter.

Yes it does, that's one of the aspects I really like about it. It raises the shifter ball joint up above the trans tunnel, effectively raising the shift lever height ~1.5" without actually lengthening it. When paired with a short shift lever, this also brings the selector rod back in plane/parallel to the trans for better linkage geometry. Additionally, you are eliminating 2 joints altogether (the joints where the OE shifter carrier would attach to the trans and to the trans tunnel) which cuts out half the joints that potentially have play in them. Right now, with the IE ssk and a brand new selector rod and brand new selector rod joint, I have maybe 5mm of play while in gear.

Damn this reminds me I have to do my CSB. Are you sure the e30 CSB is used? I used an e36 CSB mounted in reverse on my zf320 when I did my swap and i think it's the source of my driveshaft knocking against the trans tunnel.

Also did you get a chance to listen to those pioneers? I have no front tweeters and I'm lacking the power up front because of it. Right now it's just some 20 year old Japanese paper cones in there and they can't keep up

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Regarding the CSB, are you referring to the whole assembly (bearing plus rubber carrier/bracket) or literally just the bearing?

I had a brand new e30, and e30 CSB (rubber carrier/bracket plus the bearings) side by side. I popped the bearings out and they are dimensionally identical. As far as the brackets, the e36 bracket does not fit in the e30 (or at least not in mine - you can see the difference in the sizes in the picture). AFAIK, the way it works is that when you do the 24v swap with the g260 you need to use the e30 csb mounted backwards to account for the trans being slightly offset/on an angle in order to keep the DS straight. When you do the 24v swap with the zf320 and corresponding DS, you use the e30 csb mounted normally since now the trans is back in line and centered, and therefore the DS will need to be centered as well. This is what worked perfectly for me.

I'll give a better reeview when I finish installing them. At the moment, I only got time to install the driver front. I'm swapping from a cheaper set of alpines. Right now if I sit kinda in the middle, I can hear the pioneers are more crisp and seem to give better clarity.

Nice progress. I also was going to ask how are those pioneer speaker?

I'll write some more detailed comments after I finish installing them.

[pandaboo911]

The e36 bracket fit on mine. I'm talking about the bracket because it looks like the e36 is slightly offset to the side and e30 is centered? The bracket sits at the very front of the mounting slots though so i think it's not properly preloaded causing the driveshaft to whip around in 1st gear


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[Sh3rpak!ng]

The e36 bracket fit on mine. I'm talking about the bracket because it looks like the e36 is slightly offset to the side and e30 is centered? The bracket sits at the very front of the mounting slots though so i think it's not properly preloaded causing the driveshaft to whip around in 1st gear


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That's interesting. The e36 bracket definitely doesn't fit on mine, and even if it did, it wouldn't be right since it needed to be offsett a little. Here's the picture again for reference. The e36 bracket on the left, e30 on the right. You can see that the e30 bracket has a significantly narrower mounting base, and it is offset. The pictured e36 csb is for/from a 328i, and the pictured e30 csb is for/from a late model 325i fwiw.

In terms of preload, what I understand is that you should be preloading it in the direction of the "open side" of the bracket. In other words, one side of the bracket is "open" so it can be slid over the bearing, and the other side is "closed". You want to preload it towards the "open" side so that the rubber portion doesn't work its way off the bearing, and holds constant tension. (in my picture, both brackets are sitting closed side up)

Does your e36 bracket look like the one I have pictured? You should take a very close look at driveshaft alignment and make sure the two halves are perfectly straight.