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    #16
    Originally posted by Gregs///M View Post
    You forgot one of the most important things, the gauge cluster. The E30 gauge cluster is extremely common to read too high. This is due to oxidized gauge connectors, loose grounding and failing SI board which controls the gauge.

    Until the SI board and cluster are refurbished, you cannot trust a 30 year old failing cluster.
    I just replaced the side board batteries and cleaned the ground screws last week. And it was fine before I worked on it. Now all I did was the test drive, then drive it the 100 miles home, and maybe 2 little drives around the neighborhood before I replaced everything, but it was all fine then. Afterwards all hot.

    Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
    2002 530i - Daily
    2013 Ford Flex Ecoboost - wifes/family hauler
    1986 325es - fun car (or money pit depending on who you ask)

    My build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=422370

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      #17
      So I just realized something. While the car is running, the upper radiator hose should be pressurized and pretty firm, correct? The hose never gets hard, like its empty, no fluid no pressure.

      Am I wrong in that assumption? So does that mean there is such a big bubble in the system the water pump isn't functioning properly? If that's the case I would assume I should empty the whole system and refill from scratch to try and get a better fill. Correct?

      Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
      2002 530i - Daily
      2013 Ford Flex Ecoboost - wifes/family hauler
      1986 325es - fun car (or money pit depending on who you ask)

      My build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=422370

      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by shawmcbigdis View Post
        So I just realized something. While the car is running, the upper radiator hose should be pressurized and pretty firm, correct? The hose never gets hard, like its empty, no fluid no pressure.

        Am I wrong in that assumption? So does that mean there is such a big bubble in the system the water pump isn't functioning properly? If that's the case I would assume I should empty the whole system and refill from scratch to try and get a better fill. Correct?

        Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
        This is not a good sign. The upper radiator hose should be full of fluid when the t-stat is open. If not, then your t-stat is not functioning properly or your water pump is not pushing any fluid through the system. I would flush all the hoses and the radiator (a clogged radiator could be the source of your trouble here) to make sure that there is no clog anywhere.

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          #19
          Originally posted by e30davie View Post
          Put the thermostat in a pot of water and chuck it on the stove. Watch it open as the water heats up and watch it close as the water cools down.
          Done this yet?

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            #20
            If the little bleed hose at the top of the radiator is plugged, it will cause all of this nonsense to happen...


            from experience!
            1988 325 non-letter Seta "Bronzit"
            1991 325ic "Laguna Green" (Sold)
            1993 325i "Laguna Green/Silver" (Sold)
            1998 528i "Artic Silver" m-sport(totalled by drunk driver)
            2000 528i Titansilber/gray m-sport
            2000 528i Titansilber/black m-sport(sold)
            2001 525i Anthracite m-sport(sold)
            2013 750i Black/Black m-sport "Beast"

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              #21
              Originally posted by e30davie View Post
              Done this yet?
              Not yet, did t have a chance. And now I'm gone for a week.

              When I get back I am going to do this. If it is working properly, I will empty the whole system again, flush the rad and refill. I will try finishing it off this time with a op through the overflow hose to try and minimize the air getting in while filling.

              Hopefully all that fixes the issue.

              Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
              2002 530i - Daily
              2013 Ford Flex Ecoboost - wifes/family hauler
              1986 325es - fun car (or money pit depending on who you ask)

              My build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=422370

              Comment


                #22
                So go back from vacation last night. Drained the whole system, pulled the tstat and stuck it in hot water on the stove.

                To my shock, it never opened, bad thermostat! Brand new Wahler from Bav Auto. I never would have guessed that would be the issue, but I guess anything can happen.

                So off to Autozone, got a new t-stat,some cooling system flush and a bunch of new premix (because I'm lazy). Filled it up with the flush and hose water, ran it for about 20 mins, it did get pretty warm but I didn't bleed it at all, so to be expected. This morning, I drained all that I refilled with 50/50 mix. started it up and bled the system, and it's totally fine. After 40 mins of idling it got up to just barely past the 3rd tik on the gauge. Driving around it just sticks in the middle. Was super easy to bleed. Amazing how much a working thermostat helps.

                Thanks for all the help guys, it honestly would have taken me forever to get to the point of checking the tstat because I just wouldn't think something that simple would be DOA.

                On to the next project!
                2002 530i - Daily
                2013 Ford Flex Ecoboost - wifes/family hauler
                1986 325es - fun car (or money pit depending on who you ask)

                My build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=422370

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                  #23
                  It's always the simplest things.

                  Now you will never put a thermostat in without first checking it.

                  Comment


                    #24
                    Always good to see a happy ending. Just an FYI that you want a coolant that is phosphate free.
                    Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
                    Alice the Time Capsule
                    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
                    87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

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                      #25
                      Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
                      Always good to see a happy ending. Just an FYI that you want a coolant that is phosphate free.
                      The orange ones like Dexcool have the phosphates right? This is good old green stuff, but I will double check the bottle to make sure.

                      Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk
                      2002 530i - Daily
                      2013 Ford Flex Ecoboost - wifes/family hauler
                      1986 325es - fun car (or money pit depending on who you ask)

                      My build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=422370

                      Comment


                        #26
                        BMW blue is ideal, but the regular green stuff will do. That said, some coolant manufacturers color non-standard stuff green. Just make sure it's normal "conventional antifreeze", ethylene glycol, not dexcool or any specialized type.

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