83 320is GRM Challenge/XP build

[Nick_S]

That may be worth it if things get super tight. Budget is tough with this sort of build, especially when trying to do it right the first time. I currently have the oil filter budgeted at $3.90, but I'll give you a shout if it's getting silly and I need those few extra pennies.

Well they're yours if you need them. Just shoot me a PM

[mike.bmw]

I have some spare, lightly used M42 parts laying around as well. If you need anything feel free to shoot me a PM and I'll check if I have it.

[captain awesome]

PM sent to both. THANKS!

The only thing that's really holding me up on performance is a chip of some sort. I currently run a 92 octane MarkD in my 318is and love it. The ebay one's from across the pond are around $30, but I don't want to fry the ECM or worse yet melt a piston. Any suggestions on a super thin budget?

[downforce22]

i bought my 318is and it came with the $30 ebay chip. no complaints from me on it. If you were that tight on money, I would either run stock chip, run that ebay chip, or try to find a name brand chip used on here for m42 club/ 318ti for $75

[captain awesome]

i bought my 318is and it came with the $30 ebay chip. no complaints from me on it. If you were that tight on money, I would either run stock chip, run that ebay chip, or try to find a name brand chip used on here for m42 club/ 318ti for $75

I'm assuming they are probably copies of known good chips. I hate supporting that market, but for my build at least when running the Challenge will need to be DIRT CHEAP. $30 is friendly enough to the wallet if it gets me another 500 rpm and livens things up above 3k rpm.

[rzerob]

Very nice build so far. So you decided not to paint the header side of the block? What paint did you use?

[captain awesome]

Very nice build so far. So you decided not to paint the header side of the block? What paint did you use?

Yeah I got really tired of trying to clean the block on that side so I skipped it. Can’t really see it when installed so I went ahead and acted like it was done and moved on. I used Rustoleum in the can in Smoke Gray applied with a cheap brush. It self levels pretty well, better than I expected. You don’t need more than quart for even bigger jobs. I want to use the same color for the engine bay and interior. I’ll use white for the exterior probably the marine version and rolled on with foam roller.

[captain awesome]

So the plan for the weekend was simple. Get the motor/trans in the car so I can start figuring out where the airbox, battery, shifter arm, rad brackets, and center support bearing mounts need to be set. After opening up the holes for the 318is trans crossmember to fit the e21 mount spacing, it was all bolted in place. Looks like I probably could have pushed the motor about a 1/2" further against the firewall, but I think this will work just fine. The shifter arm will need to be shortened 1 1/4" and welded back together as it's too far back. This was expected though. I need to find someone local to do the aluminum welding for a small fee, otherwise I'm going to have to try some ghetto bolts and loctite method in hopes it will hold together. The driveshaft center support bearing bracket is further back about 4-5 inches than the stock e21. I'll probably just fab some new ones out of scrap angle and try to weld them underneath the car. Next up was the stock 318is airbox. I set it on the rubber mount from the e21 airbox, which put it almost exactly where it needs to be. It looks like I can cut the stock brackets and reweld them in position for the new box. The battery is a tight fit in the fender well, and I hope that there is enough hood clearance. I sorta test fit it with the hood and took some measurements, but I'm still not 100% there's enough room. Time flew by, and I was unable to sort the rad mounts. I have a plan, just waiting on a part to roll in to implement it.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[captain awesome]

For a little while now, I've been putting out the word to friends to find someone to TIG weld the aluminum shifter carrier. The carrier needs shortened 1 1/4" to put the shifter in just the right spot. Unfortunately all I have come up with is expensive solutions to a Challenge problem. I've considered cutting down the sheetmetal shifter console that came with the car, but have been hesitant to go there just yet. After my last quote of $80 to weld the aluminum, I decided it's time to commit. I cut the portion needed from the console, hammered the edges flat, and drilled a few holes to match up with the stock ones. I'll need to tack some nuts to the tunnel from the inside, but that's it. This does raise the shifter position, so I've got something in mind to cover that issue and shorten up my shifting throws.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Today I wanted to get some engine bay mounts done. The stock airbox lower mount was at the right height, but needed moved toward the alternator a little. I cut the stub off and welded it back on. Then the stock airbox upper mount was cut off, trimmed down to one mount and welded back. With all that in position, I realized my lawn battery is not going to fit. I kinda knew that already, so I'm hoping a 12v 22ah battery will be enough. It's going to end up really close to the starter and the fuse box, so I think it will be enough.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

The lower rad mounts were an idea I borrowed from Tom D on Bimmerforums. There is a long and short mount used on the m42 e30. Two of the long mounts work with the e21 frame legs once you notch them to fit. The rubber nubs sit in the mounts and keep everything located nicely. It took some drilling and a small square file to get them just right on both sides, but they turned out well. On the passenger side there was a clearance issue at the bottom. Some chop choppy with a hacksaw and now the ~$40 ebay radiator has some breathing room. I still need to figure out some upper mounts that are isolated by rubber. I've got something in mind, just need to figure out all the logistics. So, all of the hoses fit but the lower passenger side. I compared the new one with the old stock one, and it's definitely a better fit with the old one. It kinks a little, and I'm worried it's going to be an issue. It may require a splice or I'll have to bite the bullet to and purchase the OEM one.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

The expansion tank hose need some sort of support, but fits fine otherwise. Everything all together looks nice and factory like I hoped. Later I'll tackle the throttle cable bracket, weld on a stud near the passenger motor mount for a ground, electric fan brackets, and connect the soft fuel lines in the engine bay.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[captain awesome]

Throttle cable adaptation ended up being pretty straight forward. I cut a slit in the throttle bracket to slide the cable through, and after lubricating the cable I was able to get it adjusted in the proper range. The throttle stop at the gas pedal needed adjustment as well so it would open up the butterflies all the way.

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Spent some time on a little arts and crafts for the electric fan. It's just a simple template that mirrors for both top and bottom with a few speed holes. I think they turned out pretty good, but now I'm struggling to figure out a top mount for the radiator. I wanted to use some rubber isolators bolted to the core support, but the height for both aren't quite in line to work out. I drilled out the the spot welds on the core support section to make pulling the motor in and out much simpler. I'll probably make a new one that will double as the upper rad bracket. I just need some more time staring at it before committing to anything.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[captain awesome]

Punch list in the engine bay is beginning to drop just a bit. The tiny details always take longer than expected, so I'm using whatever free minutes I have to just knock them out and leave the big stuff for when I have more time available.

I added some engine oil, and immediately saw some drips at the oil pan. Fook. The brand new copper washer isn't sealing the drain plug, even after snugging it down just a bit more. I'll probably just drain the oil, teflon the bolt, and snug it all back up at this point. On to the next.

Clutch slave cylinder hard and soft lines were connected and tightened up. It's tight in the trans tunnel so that was a pain and I know it's going to be a struggle to bleed later.

At this point I'm not taking pics, just trying to get the little things. Tighten alternator belt and bolt check.

Engine harness installed so I can figure out what needs moved compared to an e30 engine bay. After a few hours of head scratching and internetting, I've figured out where to splice in the stock e21 engine connector, and that the fuel circuit needs one adjustment made to accommodate a proper fused circuit. I've got some Tesa tape to wrap all wires when it's all finished to give an OEM look.

New alternator ground cable in to replace the shagged one. I got this 4 pack of them from ebay real cheap, but with them not being a larger gauge wire like the stock units I'm a bit worried. I have one for the engine ground off the passenger motor mount as well, just need to weld a stud on the frame rail to snug it down.

Radiator temp sensor has been installed so the e-fan will kick on when needed. Looks like I need to extend the stock wires a few inches to reach the new location. Waiting on some more uninsulated splicers to roll in before I can get that done. Also hoping to finalize some upper rad mounts Sunday.

Installed 3 nut style clips in the shifter tunnel so the shifter setup I drilled will bolt in using stock hardware. New shifter should roll in this afternoon so I can get the linkage sorted.

Cleaned up and snatched some hose clamps from the m10 to make sure I don't need to order any or dig through the parts stash.

My new smaller battery will be here tomorrow, so hopefully Sunday I can get a bracket made and start committing to wire harness work. It's an ebay knock off of the pc860 for $34.99 called a Mighty Max Viper VP-600. Could be junk, but it's a smaller footprint than the lawn battery and an exact penny for penny cost.

So, speaking of budget, I am currently at $2809.09 before my $1000 recoup with only a few inexpensive items that haven't made the list yet. I have $190.91 left in the budget which I want to keep as open as possible until it's rolling and driving. There is a massive amount of parts that I ordered "just in case" to save on shipping, and some others that just didn't end up using. Luckily a large percentage of these can be sent back to FCP Euro for a refund/credit if needed.

Anyway, one huge budget hit was going to be a good performance chip. I didn't want to do the $30 ebay chip, but that's what was going to be the only thing I could afford to pick up. Miraculously I scored a SSSquid chip from a R3vlimited forum member along with another engine ground clable and airbox clip for the cost of shipping $3.75! Mike, you friggin rock!

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[mike.bmw]

...
Anyway, one huge budget hit was going to be a good performance chip. I didn't want to do the $30 ebay chip, but that's what was going to be the only thing I could afford to pick up. Miraculously I scored a SSSquid chip from a R3vlimited forum member along with another engine ground clable and airbox clip for the cost of shipping $3.75! Mike, you friggin rock!
...

No problem! You are kicking ass and taking names with this build so far! Looking forward to future updates. :D

[captain awesome]

No problem! You are kicking ass and taking names with this build so far! Looking forward to future updates. :D

Already got another update whipped up!


My shifter was in the mailbox this afternoon when I got home, so a quick comparison to the stock one reveals I made a good choice. The extra length should more than make up for the distance I raised the shifter platform. The knob is threaded, but it also has the provision to fit a stock style knob. After my initial assessment, I then proceeded to cut 1 1/4" out of the linkage with a little pipe cutter. After a tack or two, the test fit confirmed I'm good to melt the pieces back together. The shifter ball bushings are on the sloppy side, so I'll probably order up some new ones when I get another parts list together. Shifting pattern feels good and direct. The knob that comes with the shifter has a nice weight to it. All in all I may end up buying one of these for the e30. Driveshaft brackets will be up next for fab work I think.


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[captain awesome]

When it rains, it pours. Excited to see my smaller battery on the porch, I could tell the box had a rough life. Hoping for the best I opened the package finding a fairly significant dent in the lower corner. Fook. Waiting to hear back from the seller to see what they want to do about it. At least I can sort out a bracket to mount this thing.

In an effort to get some more momentum, I spent a few minutes cleaning up after myself before swapping the 13" stock wheels and tires back on. Don't want to flat spot the a7s, but this also gave me the opportunity to put the car on blocks to ease in driveshaft center support bearing bracketry and exhaust work. While the car is in the air, I now have room to slide my oil drain pan in place to try to stop this silly leak. You'd think after going through the trouble to pull the pans apart, I would have noticed the hairline crack at the top of the threaded hole, but NOPE. Luckily there are silly cheap pans for less than $23 on ebay new, but still not as convenient to replace in the car VS sitting on the stand. Plus, 23 buck is 23 bucks. So for the evening I managed to fasten down my fuel lines in the engine bay and stare at stuff.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

[captain awesome]

I've been dreading the center support bearing brackets for a while now. I hate welding on my back under the car, and worse yet the undercoating is a pain in the ass to get removed. There have been a few m42 builds for the e21/2002 that used some angle iron to attach the csb mounts, and then anchor that to the stock mounts. I was afraid that wouldn't be sturdy enough, but luckily that was all unfounded. I happened to have some scrap angle from the poorly constructed roof rack of the new baja bug I got. After a bit of work with the grinder, drilling some holes, and tacking on a couple bolts it was all good to go. Way more sturdy than I expected. After a coat of cheap spray paint the brackets are done. Happy to have that finished, I moved on to the upper rad mounts. I've been putting this off because I just couldn't settle on a mount that I thought looked and functioned well enough. Digging through my scrap metal box, I noticed some pre-threaded tabs from an old motorcycle battery bracket assembly. They were the proper thread pitch of the old rubber isolators, and after a smidge of welding were nice and functional. The core support piece is still removable, I just need to settle on a more permanent fastening solution other than the sheet metal screws. Battery bracket is up next, hopefully Sunday I can get that finished up and then move on to exhaust mounting/fitting.

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Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

Untitled by hatchethairy, on Flickr

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