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Fritz, the Euro Prince

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    Fritz, the Euro Prince

    A warm welcome to my 10th e30(And the first one here on r3v)



    He has been deemed "Fritz" for many reasons.

    Polaris Metallic 1983 320i. Originally an m20b20 manual car with no options whatsoever. Now sporting a haggardly wired stereo system and an aftermarket glass moonroof. The story on this car that I've gathered from previous owners is that it was bought by a US serviceman while stationed in Germany and was imported into the US around 1994 at the end of his deployment. It was then driven for a few years(and apparently every Northern Winter) and eventually put into storage in Ohio. It stayed in storage until 2013 when it was purchased by a friend in Louisville. He drove it around for a bit with the m20b20 until it was swapped out for a "built" m20b25. This engine met its demise before too long and it was torn down to swap in an m52b28. During this time it also received an e36 m3 front/z3 rear 5-lug swap. Neither of which were fully completed.

    Fast-forward to the day I took the 2 hour trip North to Louisville.







    First impressions: Pretty rusty in the fenders and floor pans. A lot of the undercoating is gone and surface rust is present throughout. At this point, the car has been off the road about 2 years and stored in a Harbor Freight garage tent thing. Any moisture that was introduced had nowhere to go but into the car's exposed metal. Luckily, the euro bumpers are in fair condition, albeit dull. It has a Genuine Pfeba front spoiler and wing in good health. Paint is mostly there and matching, but very weathered. Interior is messy, but shows signs of being in decent shape under the trash and spare parts. All modifications done on this car were done very haphazardly. Sits on $200 eBay coilovers with blown e30 top mounts. It is missing the pedal assembly. The wiring harness is hacked and melted together. Lots of wires are cut and capped. The CSB is mounted upside-down. There are two sets of e-brake cables just hanging under the car. It's a hot mess.

    At this point, I'm tempted to get back in my truck and make the trek home with an empty trailer. But much like my girlfriend's reaction to a stray dog, something tells me it needs a second chance. So we eventually come to an agreement and load it up.

    What have I done...?




    Now before I get into any repair work or modifications, keep in mind this wont be a "visually satisfying" restoration like some other members have done. This is a low-budget resurrection fueled by the car's necessities to be streetable.

    I'm fortunate enough to have a good friend only a mile away that is willing to lend me a spot to work on it indoors, since my single car garage is occupied by my '87 IS. So I ended up pulling the engine/trans back out, removing all of the fuel and brake lines, and the entire front suspension. Bought a new set of e36 m3 control arms, steel braided brake lines, ZF transmission detent bushing kit, new master cylinder and slave, z4 shifter, oil pan gasket, rethreaded e30 coolant temp sensor, a z4 manual steering rack and new tie rod ends, and a new starter.

    Fancy moonroof



    Engine coming out



    Melted harness. Ended up cutting the same wires out of a spare auto harness I have and soldering them in.


    Didn't know these came with two oil pan gaskets installed...


    A healthy coat of POR-15 goes onto rusty areas after some wire-wheeling


    Old tie rod end nuts were stripped, so I resorted to cutting them off


    Z4 manual rack installed and linkage shortened



    Custom caster-increasing FCABs


    New arms and Condor FCABs


    Trans detents in progress



    Suspension back on and a 17x8 et20 M-System fitment test. Swapped the e30 top mounts for a set of camber plates I had from an old e30 also.


    So this is where we are now. Still need to bolt on the starter, modify the headers to fit the e30 body and the o2 sensors, drain and fill the trans, find some exhaust manifold studs/nuts, and do a little clean-up before putting the engine back in. Then it's on to the rear of the car where some things need to be addressed.
    Last edited by e30sodirty; 09-18-2018, 07:29 AM.

    #2
    Csb mounted backwards is the correct way for the swap car


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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      #3
      Backwards, yes. Upside down, no. They had it mounted so the driveshaft came down under the car and back up to the diff instead of being tucked up into the tunnel all the way back. Wish I’d have taken a picture.

      Comment


        #4
        good project. It's always cool to me to see these stashed e30s from the 90s with different options on them like the Pfeba kit

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by e30sodirty View Post
          Backwards, yes. Upside down, no. They had it mounted so the driveshaft came down under the car and back up to the diff instead of being tucked up into the tunnel all the way back. Wish I’d have taken a picture.


          Oh wth! Pics!


          Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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            #6
            I wondered who bought that.
            IMG_0145 by Jonathan Martin, on Flickr

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              #7
              be sure to have a good look around the firewall,
              these early euro cars rot like crazy under the battery and behind the fuse box
              We're out there in here.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by BUDNUNTA View Post
                be sure to have a good look around the firewall,
                these early euro cars rot like crazy under the battery and behind the fuse box
                Suprisingly, there is no rot in those areas. The front of the floorpans are in rough shape, though. Planning to tear into that this winter. Just trying to get it driving and ironed out mechanically for now.

                Comment


                  #9
                  This car sat for sale forever in Louisville! Good to see it go and get sorted!

                  PS. Try crimping the new wires in the harness. Solder makes them brittle, Engine harness are under alot of vibrations :)

                  I curious what else you'll find!
                  Subscribed for progress!
                  Last edited by moatilliatta; 09-19-2018, 12:00 PM.

                  I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                  @Zakspeed_US

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                    PS. Try crimping the new wires in the harness. Solder makes them brittle, Engine harness are under alot of vibrations :)
                    This is the first i have heard of crimping wires being the preferred method for connecting wires in an engine harness.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      HMM, Slotting the cabs, Will it move? What is it running for 5 lug swap setup?

                      I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                      @Zakspeed_US

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                        HMM, Slotting the cabs, Will it move? What is it running for 5 lug swap setup?
                        I’m assuming they were non-M arms. Put a new set of M control arms on it and new lollipops.

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                          #13
                          Putting 96+ arms on?

                          I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                          @Zakspeed_US

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                            #14
                            I like this.

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                              Putting 96+ arms on?
                              Yep. Already did along with new lollipops/FCABs.

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