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'90 325i S52 to S54 '06 Z4M w/ ZF 6 Speed

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    Very detailed write ups here, nice job.

    Questions:
    1) Do you still have to run the E46M coolant temp sensor in the coolant pipe on the block or can I switch it out for the E30 sensor that connects to Andrew's harness? Or do I need both?

    2) For the PWM fan temp sensor does it have to be in the lower radiator hose or can I put it in the coolant pipe mentioned above?

    Comment


      @masterofnone
      1) Running both as one reports to the DME for running conditions, the E30 temp sensor signal goes to the cluster.

      2) For the PWM fan to work correctly, you will need the E46 AC pressure sensors and use gtpetersens CAN board to utilize the PWM fan module. I am currently undecided but leaning toward no PWM module. We shall see, there are a few on ebay for ~$80 right now
      Last edited by R3Z3N; 11-21-2018, 10:22 PM.

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        Thanks for the info!

        I figured the first and believe I got Gpetersens controller with Andrews harness. Just need to figure out how to wire the E46 controller and how to use the board in general...

        It would be nice to use a puller fan in addition to the E30 aux. but I really have no clue how this board works so far as I haven’t gotten there quite yet.

        Are you still building your car or just deciding about the PWM?

        Comment


          ^Just buttoning up now, a few setbacks as always such as fuel pump failing. Not happy with the mess above the glovebox, but I will fix that later.

          As to the CAN board, the digital outs just get grounded when triggered which he can set for you depending on what can messages you want to utilize from the DME. Digital out 1 is set to ground the Check engine light to turn it on. 2 is set to trigger an additional fan relay.

          I do agree about using a puller, I believe 2 smaller fans will fit, but wise to use a shroud. So far I am just using a SPAL 16" pusher as you see in my OP, and I have the rubber shroud pushing right up against the AC condenser, but air will still not be forced thorugh the radiator. We shall see if I need to modify that.

          If you need a little help, I can PM you my number.

          Comment


            Fuel pump was good, the wiring in the fuel pump assembly cracked. Easy! Resoldered and replaced with new pump anyway.

            Got the interior done. YAY!!

            Filled the Power Steering and Coolant. There is a coolant leak that drips off the back of the trans driver side. Guessing the heater core lines are different sizes. Want to confirm. Didn't see the top of the trans wet at that location, but I didn't take the airbox off to confirm.

            Check engine light and custom guages in the dash are dim as well. Guessing my splice at the aux fuse box is suspect (wiring was very hard to tin) or the 18ga wiring is too long. Tried a different ground spot to no avail, but that can be fixed later.

            Next weekend, find the source of the leak, bleed the brakes, fill the trans, put front end on and a few more small to-dos. Biggest one to set me back will the the coolant leak as that will most likely be ordering another line and taking the airbox off again to fix. Don't know where else it can leak as the carpet isn't wet at the heater core and all rubber/lines are new.

            Sorry no pics, maybe next weekend. I keep working till dark when pics are horrible.

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              Well, the leak happened to be the heater core. Ordered. Crawled under the car to do some final checks and the custom DSSR (which I need to measure for OP DIY) had a temp bolt stuck through it, and my mechanic forgot to install, so ordered a replacement pin and shim set from UUC. In the mean time, fixed my seat shocks.

              But I will get a measurement for the 6MT DSSR linkage. UPDATE: Measured at 4.5in, 11.5cm Going to be selling the AKG DTM shifter and installing this instead:
              RTD also has a lockout (IE reverse and 1-2 and 1-3 end slop adjustment) but it's about 70% more and out after Xmas.
              Last edited by R3Z3N; 12-09-2018, 04:27 PM.

              Comment


                Just read through the build right now. Very nice job!



                You didn't mention why you abandoned the MK60 ABS?


                Also, you listed a 3.71 lsd with the 6 speed. I ran that combo, and 1st was pretty useless. Give it some thought before comitting to a rebuilt diff.

                Comment


                  I don't yet know enough about installing the MK60 and time was running out due to marriage.

                  I would still love to but after I clean up the under dash wiring.

                  3.73 with 3 clutch installed already. Wish I could do custom gearing for all the gears as it's pretty inefficient not using a lot of the powerband between gears.

                  Comment


                    Measured my shift linkage and updated OP, shift linkage is 4.5in / 11.5cm

                    RTD shifter on its way and pulled the AKG DTM shifter to sell, pic to come once I install that.

                    There won't be any updates till that arrives, and is installed after the new year.
                    Last edited by R3Z3N; 12-10-2018, 07:56 PM.

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                      Yay the RTD shifter came. Pivot point to bottom pin is 3.25" for and aft, and 3.5" side to side. I wish it was adjustable like the Advance Auto Fab shifter

                      However it feels great, but I do need to twist my DSSR at the shifter about 7º counter clockwise to get it centered left to right. Or I may just buy the super short CAE DSSR so that it's easily adjustable. BTW check out the adjustable brake bias knob by the shifter :-D Got the interior dirty again :-(

                      On another note for the cruise control and ECU gear recognition, I found a better way to make sure the curves stay relative to the gearing just as BMW had it, so the excel spreadsheet is updated in my OP with the rest of the downloads.





                      Last edited by R3Z3N; 12-30-2018, 11:43 PM.

                      Comment


                        Used the CAE super short shift linkage instead and shaved the RTD shift linkage to fit, and put keep the shift adjustment bolt up top.
                        NOTE: the CAE 10mm dowel pin is VERY tight, but was perfect for the RTD linkage. So I used 500 grit sandpaper to remove enough anodizing to get it to slide in. You want all pieces just barely friction tight, and do lube them up, so that your shift stroke is smooth. :oops:
                        You can buy the shortest or second shortest. I am at the 120mm limit for the shifter. Link in OP.
                        BTW no fun to get the linkage off when the driveshaft is installed. Made it easy by drilling a half inch hole above the joint pin so I can pull the circlip off and punch out for future work if needed.
                        Last edited by R3Z3N; 01-06-2019, 10:49 AM.

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                          BTW is there anyway to do anchor links? IE I want to make an index linking to items in red in OP so it takes you direct to that part of the post.

                          Comment


                            If you look at the post number its a clickable link... Thats about as close as you can get in terms of sending a user to a particular post. At least as far as I know.
                            IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

                            Comment


                              Ya, that's not what I want. But thanks!

                              Looked it up, as HTML is disabled and it's not implemented in the version of VBulletin we currently use. It could be added if JC wants.
                              Last edited by R3Z3N; 01-09-2019, 01:20 PM.

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                                Well all that is left to do is to...ah shoot. I broke the bleeder screw on my Wilwood BBK. Now I got air in the lines again. And off to buy another ez-out set because I left them at a friends.

                                Next weekend I will bleed the brakes and clutch, install the heat shields and then to get the Exhaust made. I do have to figure out why my Dash additions by Bavrest (voltmeter, oil temp and pressure) LEDs are dim, bad connection somewhere which is odd as it's all twisted then soldered. Oh well, its not necessary to run, I will fix that and shorten the wiring under the dash later.

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