Head gasket job in my future. Any tips?

[apostate]

Good luck with finding a sound 885 head.
Ebay is not your best bet as you may soon discover that the head advertised is not the head in real.
Otherwise measure your cylinder bores and see if they are within specs. If not - you'll have a totally different issue to worry about.

Cheers.

[e30davie]

Damn that sucks. You cant predict stupididty from previous owners im afraid.

Ah well. Last time i pulled an m20 head it was deamed servicable, but still cost me $800 at the machinist to do a valve grind and new exhaust valve guides. So 400bucks might be a cheap way out of your issue.

[faber]

I found one with a warrany for $350 on fleabay. Has been pressure tested and is flat with no deviation taken (supposedly) from a running vehicle that was wrecked. The seller seems to sell these parts often so fingers crossed. I can lap the valves and install seals and guides if need be. Hopefully it works out! Ill post an update as soon as i get everything in hand.

[faber]

Well, I received the head this morning, and it looks like it is not as advertised. Guy said it was taken from a running e30 that was wrecked, and the head was hot tanked, pressure tested, and tested for flatness by a machine shop. He packed the head by wrapping it in a cardboard box, and taping it up. No foam, no cushioning, left the studs in the head. Needless to say it was trashed when it arrived. studs bent and busted off, one corner all dinged up from an obvious drop.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/LzXrFTndnRMzKxKl1

No way it was checked for flat by a pro as the mating surface is still dirty as hell.

back to the drawing board. Gonna dispute this crap and hopefully get my money back. what a douchenozzle....

[apostate]

The only way to be sure that 885 is sound is to get it expected yourself.
Buying online is a great risk. Most of the 885 heads have been overheated and therefore cracked.

[faber]

Yeah, I am trying not to break the bank on this car. I have time on my side though so I will find the right parts. It is just frustrating when people misrepresent their items and screw people over. I think this head might be ok, I will have to extract the broken studs and resurface it, but it seems to be holding pressure in the water jackets. I was listed as ready to bolt on so I didn't expect to put a ton of work and more money into it.

[apostate]

Yeah, I am trying not to break the bank on this car. I have time on my side though so I will find the right parts. It is just frustrating when people misrepresent their items and screw people over. I think this head might be ok, I will have to extract the broken studs and resurface it, but it seems to be holding pressure in the water jackets. I was listed as ready to bolt on so I didn't expect to put a ton of work and more money into it.

Get it pressure tested. If it is not cracked, then bring it to a machine shop for servicing.

[faber]

Get it pressure tested. If it is not cracked, then bring it to a machine shop for servicing.

I am gonna pull the block and take the head and block to get hot tanked, I will have them pressure test the head and check the bores on the block. All the machine shops where I live are very expensive, so I do any work I can do myself if I can. The head is just a c-hair over .002 out of flat so I can resurface it myself if it passes the pressure test. Cam looks fine, no scoring. Cylinder bores could definitely use a hone, and I will have the machine shop clean them up. Hopefully there are no more surprises.

[redlightpete]

I am gonna pull the block and take the head and block to get hot tanked, I will have them pressure test the head and check the bores on the block. All the machine shops where I live are very expensive, so I do any work I can do myself if I can. The head is just a c-hair over .002 out of flat so I can resurface it myself if it passes the pressure test. Cam looks fine, no scoring. Cylinder bores could definitely use a hone, and I will have the machine shop clean them up. Hopefully there are no more surprises.

You may want to rethink getting the block hot tanked. The intermediate shaft bearings have to be machined to size, and are generally ruined by hot tanking.

[faber]

You may want to rethink getting the block hot tanked. The intermediate shaft bearings have to be machined to size, and are generally ruined by hot tanking.

Really? I am open to suggestions on freshening this engine up. I have always hot tanked all the parts, checked all the clearances and replaced any overly worn bearings etc, then ridge reamed the block and honed the cylinders with a ball hone, and re-ring the pistons and put everything back together with new gaskets. I was gonna yank the block and tear it down but this is my first time working on an m20 so I am all ears if you guys have suggestions on how best to freshen this motor up without breaking the bank.

[apostate]

If the block needs honing then it is probably out of wear specs.
Get it measured with the appropriate precision tool.

[faber]

If the block needs honing then it is probably out of wear specs.
Get it measured with the appropriate precision tool.

I was gonna hone it just to restore the crosshatch. It ran fine, but the head was clogged with stopleak and caused an overheat. I was just gonna freshen it up a bit while I have it torn down.

[faber]

Is it easier to pull the motor without the trans attached or with the trans attached?

[apostate]

It depends on what you've got as a working space and equipment.
Normally I'd pull it with the gearbox attached to it. But you'll have to get the car lifted on supports and use a "giraffe" type hydraulic hoist with enough space in front of the car.
Otherwise, you get the car lifted on supports, get the gearbox out (not an easy job in the restricted space underneath) and use а winch to pull the engine out.
In all cases you'll have to get under the car to dismount the drive shaft, gearbox (or mounts), linkage, etc.

And a piece of advice - don't try to surface the head/block by yourself. Get them to a machine shop.

Above all, get the block cylinders measured to see if they are within the wear limits. Don't throw money at something that may turn out to be an abyss.

[faber]

I decided not to yank the motor and rebuild it. The bottom end is fine. It wasn't burning oil or leaking too badly, and rather than go to all the trouble and hassle to rebuild it I think I am just gonna prep the head and install it. I cleaned it and it is about .002 convex from the center of the head to the rear. I will resurface it, freshen up the seals and put the thing back together. I had big plans for a father/daughter project, but it has become pretty apparent that isn't gonna happen. Thank you guys for all the tips and input! Really appreciate the help, and ideas.