325ic-M20-Manual - Coolant Level Sensor Leak - Coolant Pressure

[E3Owner]

Hello, I am new here. Greetings!

I would appreciate it if some of you experts chimed in and help me with a cooling system problem/question. The vehicle is a described in the title.

Car is loosing coolant and while there is some pressure in the system (i.e., can squeeze upper rad hose about 1/4-1/2 in, probably more if I tried harder.) I am worry this may have gone on too long.

Noticed top of Coolant Level Sensor is wet after drive. Tried to tighten it down but it seems some gorilla stripped the threads a bit and it tightens but then it gets loose again.

Checked and added water but drove car several times, half hour each time, before noticing the soft hoses. Car does not overheat except temp rises a bit passed mid point at idle (traffic).

Checked:
No coolant in oil
No oil in coolant
There is heat
Some steam out of tail pipe but it seems to stop after warm

Questions
A- What's the likely hood that driving without coolant pressure ruined head gasket?
B- Is there an easy way to keep coolant level sensor from coming loose? Tried teflon tape but it is not helping with the damaged threads on the e-tank's neck.

Thanks. I researched threads but found nothing specific enough. Hope some of you experts would care to chime in.

[Kershaw]

you could try JB weld.

[E3Owner]

you could try JB weld.

I'll look into it but seems to me it may be a bit harsh. If it ends up eating through the plastic they'll be no second chance.

I'm trying to get the system to pressurize properly to make sure the HG is not screwed before I start putting money I don't have into it.

Maybe I'm just panicking and my running the car without coolant pressure didn't cause any damage. Hopefully others will chime in about that.

Thanks

[fastbub]

Running without coolant pressure doesn't cause damage. As long as coolant is flowing and temps. are ok. The pressurizing of coolant allows for a higher boiling point. Water under pressure boils at a higher temp than water at atmospheric pressure. I forget exactly but I think the boiling point goes up 4 degrees for every 1 psi above atmospheric. My car usually runs around 185-190 so it is not near boiling point.

[TobyB]

Yeah, I think you're ok, too.

It's worth spending for a used reservoir to see. You don't say if early or late,
but the reservoirs are usually lying around in the pull- a- part.

Goobering JB weld into the threads will probably work- JB weld it, tighten it up
finger tight, let it set up well, then tighten it up good and tight. The JB weld will
stick to the threads on the level sensor, and not the tank, I'll bet, and then it'll
tighten down nice and tight. Also make sure you bleed the cooling system properly...
I think that kills more M20s than anything else...

hth
t

[E3Owner]

I'd bought and installed a new sensor hoping it would solve the tightening issue, now I have two so if the JB only sticks to the sensor I'll give it go.

The lack of coolant pressure freaks me out specially after reading all the HG issues. I had taken it to a garage for general inspection and they talked me into a coolant flush. Would you believe they didn't noticed the leak or mentioned anything about the lack of pressure! I should have walked away from those idiots the minute they started selling themselves as "Enthusiasts".

Anyways, thanks for taking the time to comment, appreciate the feedback . In a few days I'll let you know how it goes.

PS/ TobyB I think by early or late you may be referring to the type of tank. I don't know which qualifies as one or the other but it's not the cylindrical looking one, its the rectangular one, I think the same of similar may also be used on E36s.

[jeffnhiscars]

That's a late style tank FYI.

Go to a parts store and get a free rental of a coolant pressure tester. Obviously you'll have to plug the coolant sensor opening.