Temporary Alternator Delete

[Panici]

So my Alternator is dead.
I know a place locally that can rebuild it.

I need a shorter belt to temporarily delete the alternator, so I can drive until the alt is rebuilt.

I have 3 car batteries and a booster pack, which combined should give me enough battery power to get where I need to go. I can charge them up easily at home.


Does anyone have a suggestions for a shorter belt? I believe my car has the earlier belt setup (v-belts?)
If I know the make/model of another car that has the belt I need, I can grab one at a parts store.

EDIT: it just occurred to me that the belt tensioner is built into the alternator. This may be more difficult then I had initially hoped.

[nrubenstein]

Piece of string, measure.

[Panici]

Piece of string, measure.

So easy. Thanks!


Suggestions for dealing with lack of tensioner?

[nrubenstein]

So easy. Thanks!


Suggestions for dealing with lack of tensioner?

That's the un-fun part. You'll have to lever it on there without damaging anything.

It'll probably be easiest to unbolt the pulley, but it won't be fun to get back on. Remember that without a tensioner, it'll need to be a slightly small belt. The good news is that the water pump is not a heavy load, so it should not need to be *that* tight.

As an alternative, I'd look at picking up a used alternator off craigslist or similar. You can still get it or yours rebuilt, and it probably won't actually cost much more than buying the belt.

[StereoInstaller1]

Just go buy a new voltage regulator, get back on the road in 15 minutes

[Panici]

Just go buy a new voltage regulator, get back on the road in 15 minutes

Please elaborate. How would I know if the voltage regulator is the problem?

[efficient]

Just go buy a new voltage regulator, get back on the road in 15 minutes

i did this and it didnt work for me. i ended up buying a new alternator

[dewme5]

Usually a voltage regulator is all it's going to take. 2 screws, and you are back in business. I would pull it out, replace the regulator, and put in new bushings as well. Maybe even get a new tensioner if the teeth in yours is bad. All this is simple, and cheap.

[Panici]

Usually a voltage regulator is all it's going to take. 2 screws, and you are back in business. I would pull it out, replace the regulator, and put in new bushings as well. Maybe even get a new tensioner if the teeth in yours is bad. All this is simple, and cheap.

I repeat, how would I know if the voltage regulator is the problem?

I'm not of the mindset to throw parts at a problem

[nando]

how temporary? you know it's not going to last more than a couple hours, right?

seconded on the regulator. there aren't any moving parts on the alternator, unless the bearings are gone or it's been on fire there's nothing really to rebuild on the inside. the main wear part is going to be the brushes on the regulator.

[Panici]

I threw on the alternator from my parts car ('86 325e). Although they have different part numbers, the mounts are the same.

The main difference is how they ground. The alternator from my parts car is mounted on rubber bushings, and I had to run a separate ground wire from the back of the alt to the chassis ground.

Turns out the alt from my parts car is bad as well, but (I theorize) for a different reason. With the spare alternator, the battery light on my dash for exciter status does not light when the key is in run. I assume this means there's no ground path for the light. I didn't check, but I assume it's either at 12v because of a short in the alternator, or floating for some reason.

I've been driving around on battery power, so far with great success.

I'm going to take the voltage regulator out of the original Alt, and see if it's worn and the cause of my problems.


EDIT: Here's the voltage regulator out of the original Alt. Think this is the culprit?

[DeckDub]

That could very well be your problem, that's exactly what mine looked like when it went bad in my 87.

Only when mine went it was overcharging at about 16.3ish volts which is no bueno

[StereoInstaller1]

I repeat, how would I know if the voltage regulator is the problem?

I'm not of the mindset to throw parts at a problem

First, a new VR is part of a rebuild, as it also has new brushes.

Second, a VR is less than whatever tomfoolery you are planning....and has a 99% chance of fixing the issue.

Best of luck with whatever you do

Luke

[kickinindian]

sometimes it could even be just the brushes if your handy with solder guns just unsolder old brushes pop new ones in and my ran just fine. i think brushes are like 5 bucks or less.

[TobyB]

there's nothing really to rebuild on the inside.

...except all the rectifier diodes, which, I admit, are usually pretty bulletproof...

They do fail occasionally, tho.

t