I searched the web and couldn't find one so we can call it the CB system in you like it.... actually you can call it that if you don't... i will own up to it either way!
Ok, since I have started to sell some parts online, and it is difficult to determine the true quality (even with photos) and there is no consistent rating system… One person’s 8/10 and another’s can be very different. For example and 8/10 is a “C” in many colleges and high schools…not so great. But if supermodels are a 10/10 and your girlfriend is an 8/10 then you are pretty darn lucky! Here is my proposed scale:
USED PART RATING SYSTEM
New – as if it came right off the shelf, right from the factory
10 – New-Old-Stock( NOS) – an unused new part that shows that it has been around a while with a little scuff, dented box, or scratched label. This could be placed onto a new vehicle and be indistinguishable from the other parts.
9- new car take offs, remanufactured parts – these parts have 100% of the life expectance of the new part but show some evidence that they were used at one point. Most people would find these to be identical to a #10 or New part, but some perfectionists would not. Maybe this part was used and then the owner changed their mind in just a few miles.
8 – a very low mileage part with very minimal indication of wear. A partially refurbished part that has had major wear parts and the appearance repaired. Clean, shiny and usable as is. Most parts on cars at car shows are in this category.
7 – a lower mileage used part with some swirl marks, dirt or slight wear. Mechanical parts will have a life expectancy somewhat less than a new part, yet still shows no indication of failure such as unusual noises, clicking or bearing wobble. Most people mount these parts without cleaning or altering.
6 – a good used part. A daily driver car is happy to accept these parts. A meticulous enthusiast will likely clean or slightly refurbish this part. A mechanical part will provide a good long term life, but notably less that an 8,9 or 10 part, body panels will show very minor scuffs or a very minor door ding and the paint will need to be buffed out and may not match newer paint.
5 – suitable for a daily driver. Panels may have scratches, scuffs, stone chips or tiny rust bubbles. Mechanical parts will show wear and are dirty but are still 100% functional although their life expectancy is about ½ of a new part. Bearings and seals may show signs of being slightly loose although no leaks are noted. A meticulous enthusiast or restorer will often remove these parts and replace them or rebuild them. Plastic and Leather parts have lost their color, shine or texture and may have a crack in a noon visible area.
4 – Many unrestored cars on the road have these parts in use. Rust bubbles and dents are visible, paint is faded, bearings make some noise, rubber is drying out, and seals may be wet, but not dripping.
3 – This part is usable, but not pretty. It may compromise the efficiency of the system, such as a worn suspension part, or clearly show the body of the car needs attention. Think of a beater car or winter driver. It starts and runs but many people would not install this used part unless it just kept the car on the road or they were desperate. Seals may be dripping. Plastic parts may have cracks, gouges or missing mounting tabs.
2 – On the car these parts are still functioning but would almost never be used as a replacement part unless exceptionally rare or valuable (or free.) safety is becoming a concern. Replacement is in the near future. Rust is coming close to perforating the panel and dents are noted but could be “popped out.”
1 – a worn out part that is becoming unsafe or very unattractive. It will not pass inspection. It may still be functioning but long trips are unadvisable. Replacement is imminent. This part is suitable for a core or full refurbishment by a skilled restorer. Body panels are visibly dented and rusted areas will need new metal and filler.
0 – unusable as is, some of the pieces of the part may still have use especially the nonmoving parts. It may not be able to be restored without serious effort. This is likely scrap unless it is a very rare and valuable part. A true professional will need to weld, machine, or hand work the part to make it usable again. For example a chrome piece will need to be rechromed, a rim will need to be straightened or welded, a mechanical part will need all new seals and bearings pressed in, or a seat will need new foam and cover.
Note – the numbers of this guide are not intended to correspond to percentage changes in value. For example a New or #10 part might be worth several times what a #8 or #9 part is if it is going on a high dollar show quality car. Whereas an rare alloy wheel worth $500 in #8 form may be worth $400 in #2 form if a $100 buff and repaint brings it to #8 quality.
Let me know what you think…. Please be thoughtful and respectful, but improvement is welcomed.
CB
Ok, since I have started to sell some parts online, and it is difficult to determine the true quality (even with photos) and there is no consistent rating system… One person’s 8/10 and another’s can be very different. For example and 8/10 is a “C” in many colleges and high schools…not so great. But if supermodels are a 10/10 and your girlfriend is an 8/10 then you are pretty darn lucky! Here is my proposed scale:
USED PART RATING SYSTEM
New – as if it came right off the shelf, right from the factory
10 – New-Old-Stock( NOS) – an unused new part that shows that it has been around a while with a little scuff, dented box, or scratched label. This could be placed onto a new vehicle and be indistinguishable from the other parts.
9- new car take offs, remanufactured parts – these parts have 100% of the life expectance of the new part but show some evidence that they were used at one point. Most people would find these to be identical to a #10 or New part, but some perfectionists would not. Maybe this part was used and then the owner changed their mind in just a few miles.
8 – a very low mileage part with very minimal indication of wear. A partially refurbished part that has had major wear parts and the appearance repaired. Clean, shiny and usable as is. Most parts on cars at car shows are in this category.
7 – a lower mileage used part with some swirl marks, dirt or slight wear. Mechanical parts will have a life expectancy somewhat less than a new part, yet still shows no indication of failure such as unusual noises, clicking or bearing wobble. Most people mount these parts without cleaning or altering.
6 – a good used part. A daily driver car is happy to accept these parts. A meticulous enthusiast will likely clean or slightly refurbish this part. A mechanical part will provide a good long term life, but notably less that an 8,9 or 10 part, body panels will show very minor scuffs or a very minor door ding and the paint will need to be buffed out and may not match newer paint.
5 – suitable for a daily driver. Panels may have scratches, scuffs, stone chips or tiny rust bubbles. Mechanical parts will show wear and are dirty but are still 100% functional although their life expectancy is about ½ of a new part. Bearings and seals may show signs of being slightly loose although no leaks are noted. A meticulous enthusiast or restorer will often remove these parts and replace them or rebuild them. Plastic and Leather parts have lost their color, shine or texture and may have a crack in a noon visible area.
4 – Many unrestored cars on the road have these parts in use. Rust bubbles and dents are visible, paint is faded, bearings make some noise, rubber is drying out, and seals may be wet, but not dripping.
3 – This part is usable, but not pretty. It may compromise the efficiency of the system, such as a worn suspension part, or clearly show the body of the car needs attention. Think of a beater car or winter driver. It starts and runs but many people would not install this used part unless it just kept the car on the road or they were desperate. Seals may be dripping. Plastic parts may have cracks, gouges or missing mounting tabs.
2 – On the car these parts are still functioning but would almost never be used as a replacement part unless exceptionally rare or valuable (or free.) safety is becoming a concern. Replacement is in the near future. Rust is coming close to perforating the panel and dents are noted but could be “popped out.”
1 – a worn out part that is becoming unsafe or very unattractive. It will not pass inspection. It may still be functioning but long trips are unadvisable. Replacement is imminent. This part is suitable for a core or full refurbishment by a skilled restorer. Body panels are visibly dented and rusted areas will need new metal and filler.
0 – unusable as is, some of the pieces of the part may still have use especially the nonmoving parts. It may not be able to be restored without serious effort. This is likely scrap unless it is a very rare and valuable part. A true professional will need to weld, machine, or hand work the part to make it usable again. For example a chrome piece will need to be rechromed, a rim will need to be straightened or welded, a mechanical part will need all new seals and bearings pressed in, or a seat will need new foam and cover.
Note – the numbers of this guide are not intended to correspond to percentage changes in value. For example a New or #10 part might be worth several times what a #8 or #9 part is if it is going on a high dollar show quality car. Whereas an rare alloy wheel worth $500 in #8 form may be worth $400 in #2 form if a $100 buff and repaint brings it to #8 quality.
Let me know what you think…. Please be thoughtful and respectful, but improvement is welcomed.
CB
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