Keyless Entry Round 2

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  • einstein57
    replied
    Originally posted by russll5951
    Install went well. Went to ace hardware and he tried to cut it but got home and it doesn't go in all the way. Anyone get their keys cut in San Diego yet?
    You have to go to a real locksmith

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  • yahh
    replied
    Bought an E46 style, thanks!

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  • russll5951
    replied
    Install went well. Went to ace hardware and he tried to cut it but got home and it doesn't go in all the way. Anyone get their keys cut in San Diego yet?

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    The internals are not interchangeable.

    Leave a comment:


  • russll5951
    replied
    sweet I have wanted one of these for so long! Payment sent!

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  • ecsk
    replied
    Originally posted by Frog
    so I got a 318. I don't have central locks. Would this work?
    No it won't

    Leave a comment:


  • rtwaits
    replied
    Clicking and E46 -Flip key retrofit

    Hi Einstein

    Turns out the wires were not making good contact - working now!

    2 more questions:

    1) There are about 15 clicks fom the unit each time I open the door. Is this normal? I only installed in in keyless mode - no alarm

    2) Can the remote circuit in the flip key be transplanted into the E46 key or vice versa? I have both units, hoping to have a key of each type for each car.

    Thanks for being patient with all the questions!:D
    Ross

    Originally posted by einstein57

    1) Use red lock tite to hold it in place

    2) There is a work around write up in the original GB thread. its towards the end.http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...&postcount=458

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  • jaywood
    replied
    So is there a good DIY out there for the e46 style? I am going to be installing mine soon!

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  • einstein57
    replied
    Originally posted by ProjectCab
    Easy install, however Unit will only open passenger door and trunk. Drivers door doesn't move. Wiring is correct. Any ideas?

    Sent from my U9200 using Tapatalk 2
    The passenger door, trunk, and fuel filler door are on the same circuit. If the driver door is not working there must be a severed connection or bad solenoid.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Originally posted by ProjectCab
    How is this done?

    Sent from my U9200 using Tapatalk 2
    Small screw driver, flip the blade open and have someone hold it half open; you'll see the screws on the sides.

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

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  • ProjectCab
    replied
    Easy install, however Unit will only open passenger door and trunk. Drivers door doesn't move. Wiring is correct. Any ideas?

    Sent from my U9200 using Tapatalk 2

    Leave a comment:


  • ProjectCab
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG
    I was able to get the blades out without removing the cover

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
    How is this done?

    Sent from my U9200 using Tapatalk 2

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  • FLG
    replied
    I was able to get the blades out without removing the cover

    Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

    Leave a comment:


  • Frog
    replied
    so I got a 318. I don't have central locks. Would this work?

    Leave a comment:


  • einstein57
    replied
    Originally posted by ProjectCab
    Just wanted to confirm what is done with the orange and orange/black wires. Installing now.

    Sent from my U9200 using Tapatalk 2
    Nothing. Those are little scissors on the instructions.



    Originally posted by 330i ZHP
    I have wasted one of the key blanks -

    Einstein - the key blanks are MUCH longer than the oem blank

    Can I send you a key and the other blank?

    I also need to get another blank or two.
    Sure. You can send it to the return address.


    Originally posted by Timp
    I accidentally posted this in the first thread, so I'll just ask it here as well. For the sake of keeping things tidy, can I just remove the pins from the connector for the unused wires? If so, any ideas on how can I do it?

    UPDATE: a bobby pin seemed to work, but rendered the unit useless. Should the unused wires remain in the harness? I clearly have an extremely limited knowledge of electronics and circuits.
    I use a small screw driver. The type you use for eye glasses. I did a pictorial on the cleanest way to reduce the harness in the old thread.



    Originally posted by n0m4d
    I hate to post this, but is there an official method of removing the blade prior to cutting? I looked around and didn't come up with anything.

    BTW, the kit is working perfect and the install was super easy. I can't say enough how pleased I am with it.

    First extend the blade out. There are 2 screws behind the GE cover. Remove them and carefully lift the plastic cover and be mindfull of which way the spring is loaded. Its wound up a turn and a half. Then you'll have unobsstructed access to the blank and the pivot base. If you remove the blade from the base make sure to use red loctite or epoxy when you re-assemble it.

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