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Severe Duty Skid Plate Group Buy (Closed)

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  • Guian
    replied
    Is it too late to get in on this? Paypal is ready!

    Leave a comment:


  • L8 apexr
    replied
    Money sent John.

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  • thebutcher37
    replied
    Ready to pay.. PM sent!

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  • JGee
    replied
    :D We got TEN! :D

    O.K. I would really like to order the material on Monday.
    If I can get y'all to PayPal the monies to HIK_GG at yahoo this weekend, that would be stellar.

    Still got room for 8 more but, once the order is placed the group buy is closed.

    Thanks everyone!
    Last edited by JGee; 11-03-2012, 08:39 AM.

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  • JGee
    replied
    Welding the plate to the hoop would work but, I wouldn't do it personally because it's a lot easier to replace several bolts down low than it would be to manhandle the plate/hoop assembly in place just once. I have only heard about one guy snapping a bolt so, this is not a huge problem. I have seen guys grind the rails down so far that the bolt heads start to wear at that point they are way overdue to renew the rails.

    Putting the rails on the other side of the plate wouldn't gain any ground clearance. The clearance from plate to pan would still have to be the same. Plus there is far less drag sliding on two thin rails as opposed to the entire plate.

    JH

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  • firemanory
    replied
    Originally posted by F34R View Post
    How? Unbolt the front U bracing from the car and unbolt the rear and remove the plate. You could do it with the plate on, if you look you can see there is plenty of clearance. Ever change your oil? If you did you would clearly see there is lots of work room. The plate even looks to be offset from the first and second pictures. So even draining the oil would be fine installed.

    Yeah, forgot about those bolts. I havent been underneath for a while except to drain oil. Yeah, it has a cutout for the oil plug which is pretty slick. The only oil i get on it sometimes is when i unscrew my filter off. You ate right, could definitely be an option to avoid the bolts altogether.

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  • F34R
    replied
    Originally posted by firemanory View Post
    THe downside to welding the plate to the bar would be removal if you needed to change out oil pan gasket or get in somewhere else down there....
    How? Unbolt the front U bracing from the car and unbolt the rear and remove the plate. You could do it with the plate on, if you look you can see there is plenty of clearance. Ever change your oil? If you did you would clearly see there is lots of work room. The plate even looks to be offset from the first and second pictures. So even draining the oil would be fine installed.
    Last edited by F34R; 10-24-2012, 01:53 PM.

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  • firemanory
    replied
    Originally posted by F34R View Post

    Yup^ Welding it solid would be cheap for the guy installing it after he installs

    I think it is a great design. Just throwing it out there that ridding the bolts and putting the V rails on the other side would remove 1/2" or so of metal to scrap and catch on manholes, entrances, speed bumps etc. Bolt in how it is designed, then tack weld it, remove bolts and bead weld front and back solid.

    Bolts or not, this is a very solid design and will not rip your rad support out like others...lol
    THe downside to welding the plate to the bar would be removal if you needed to change out oil pan gasket or get in somewhere else down there....

    Leave a comment:


  • F34R
    replied
    Originally posted by FLG View Post
    F34R, Apexr is the guy who posted above you and ordered one. Hence the 2 "^^" to go 2 posts up.
    It is 4am...long day, thanks for catching that. Fixed <3

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  • FLG
    replied
    F34R, Apexr is the guy who posted above you and ordered one. Hence the 2 "^^" to go 2 posts up.

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  • F34R
    replied
    Originally posted by JGee View Post
    That would defiantly increase shipping cost significantly. The "V" bars protect those bolts normally.
    See below

    Originally posted by TrippinBimmer View Post
    Think he talking about when we get it and doing the install...:D
    Yup^ Welding it solid would be cheap for the guy installing it after he installs

    I think it is a great design. Just throwing it out there that ridding the bolts and putting the V rails on the other side would remove 1/2" or so of metal to scrap and catch on manholes, entrances, speed bumps etc. Bolt in how it is designed, then tack weld it, remove bolts and bead weld front and back solid.

    Bolts or not, this is a very solid design and will not rip your rad support out like others...lol
    Last edited by F34R; 10-24-2012, 01:12 AM.

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  • thebutcher37
    replied
    Wassss goin on?

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  • MaloventEvil
    replied
    This has seriously saved my like 5k more times than I can count. I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend that people buy this skid plate.

    Leave a comment:


  • JGee
    replied
    Originally posted by robgoesvroom View Post
    how much does this weigh?
    Just about 22lbs.

    Originally posted by TrippinBimmer View Post
    Think he talking about when we get it and doing the install...:D

    Leave a comment:


  • TrippinBimmer
    replied
    Originally posted by JGee View Post
    That would defiantly increase shipping cost significantly. The "V" bars protect those bolts normally.

    ^^Thanks apexr,
    ONE More, again :mrgreen:
    Think he talking about when we get it and doing the install...:D

    Leave a comment:

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