Massive - 280mm x 22mm BBK - $660usd

[Massive Lee]

Okay. Here is a posible rotor. It is pricier than the base rotor I intended to use, but I opened a wholesale account and can work on prices. That disc has slots, and comes vented from the back, allowing to use cooling ducts. Do you think that if I included free 3mm aluminum spacers in the introduction offer, you guys will open you wallet a bit wider?

The question now is:
For $600 GB price - I offer a blank rotor with outward vanes - $660 regular price
For $650 GB price - I offer a performance rotor as pictured below - $720 regular price

[Massive Lee]

Hi Der Affe

Thanks for your contribution. I will stick to 280mm discs as the are a much easier fit behind 15" wheels. At 280mm, that kit will fill a gap.
All the pieces of puzzle are slowly taking their position. The adapters have been sent to the machineshop. I decided which is the best caliper for this application in regard of choice of pads, and now I know I can offer two types of rotors. Life is good.

Lee

[der affe]

i wasn't implying that you would. those were drilled after the fact, and WAY too much at that. funny though, when i did the brake conversion on my jetta the rotors didn't have the openings in the rotor hat. that was 10+ years ago though. things must have changed since then.

what about a blank Audi TT rotor? that was my next brake upgrade i was going to do on the jetta. they are 13" though. that might not work for what you are trying to do. just a thought

[Massive Lee]

Hi Brian

I have just enquired with RacingBrakes on bulk prices (wholesale). If I can have them at a substancially lower than retail price, I will look at the possibility of offering such rotors, but with a slight premium. I think that most users will only see street use and will be happy to pay less for blank rotors, while perhaps 25% will want the slotted discs with inward openings for added cooling on track.


Der Affe - The ATE rotors I have seen have the air ducting coming from the front face (outward) and therefore not suitable for trackers using air ducts. And in any case, I will NOT supply drilled rotors. No way Jose I'll touch that.

Lee

[der affe]

what about the ATE rotors? reg or atom slotted.
i ran those on my jetta with no problem as a big brake upgrade using Audi turbo quattro 2 piston calipers

this the only pic i have unfortunately. they ARE ATE rotors just way over cross drilled experimental stuff that didn't work. IIRC the did not have the rotor hat holes though

[Brian D]

Lee, the only ones that I have been able to find are here: http://www.racingbrake.com/CORRADO_G...1-111-1736.htm The price of these is going to be hard to fit in the kit price, I'm afraid.

The Meyle rotors don't have the slots in the hat, which is good for strength, but bad for cooling. FWIW, the other rotors with the slots will probably cool adequately with ducts, as the cooling air will go from the hub, through the slots and into the face area. There was a question of strength with the slots, though.

[Massive Lee]

"Any other rotor" doesn't seem to exist. Therefore, I am still searching for another brand of rotor that has the opening inward. I am looking in a simple OEM looking rotor, and don't want to start redrilling 4 into 5 holes etc.

[z31maniac]

Hmmmm. That's kind of drag. I just about ordered the brake ducts for my BMP bumper this morning, glad I held off.

I'm assuming any other rotor is out of the question as you would have to redesign your bracket.

[Massive Lee]

Little update on rotors. It looks like rotors for the Corrado all have the vent opening on the outside, not the inside like with the BMW discs. Any idea what brand has the venting inward? Having the venting outward is no big deal except that it doesn't allow air ducts for cooling the discs.

ECS


Brembo


Zimmerman


Meyle

[Massive Lee]

The 25.4mm MC will work. It will require 35% more effort to push the pedal compared to a 21.8mm MC. If you find the current effort bareable, it will stay the same with the 1.38"-1.00" pistons, with even less travel as you won't have the usual play inherent in sliding calipers... Using grippy pads is also one way to overcome a brake pedal that is very hard.

[Fidhle007]

Fair enough. :-) But just so we're clear, a 1.38/1" setup will still work with a 25mm MC without too much issue, right? I also have an adjustable proportioning valve installed on my rear line so I could do some tweaking with that I suppose...

[Massive Lee]

What's the likelyhood of a rear kit being produced by spring and what sort of price point would you be aiming for? I'd much rather have a f/r kit with larger pistons (to match my 25mm MC) so if the rear kit is a reality that would determine my piston size when this GB closes.

Likelihood of producing the rear kit depends on sales of the front kit and availibility of a decent rear rotor. It takes a lot of time and money to present a kit. I have a lead on a possible rear 280mm rear rotor. But not sure it will fit. It may take two, four or even six months before a rear kit is made, if it is ever produced. Also, let's remember that for people insisting on front and rear kits, it already exists in the form of the Sport and Race kits which already have the rear portion with handbrake. Sure it costs money. But if money is indeed an object, then I suggest to concentrate on the front-only 280mm Street kit.

[Fidhle007]

What's the likelyhood of a rear kit being produced by spring and what sort of price point would you be aiming for? I'd much rather have a f/r kit with larger pistons (to match my 25mm MC) so if the rear kit is a reality that would determine my piston size when this GB closes.

[Massive Lee]

After checking the availibility of brake pads, I have decided to go with the good old Dynalite, for which most usual pad supplier have compounds for that caliper. if the rear kit is produced, it will use the same caliper, but with different piston sizing obviously.

Basically here are the pistons sizings I recommend when using same size rotors at the front and back.

1.38" fr + 1.00" rr => 1.9:1 front-to-rear hydraulic ratio
1.62" fr + 1.12" rr => 2.08:1 front-to-rear hydraulic ratio
1.75" fr + 1.25" rr => 1.96:1 front-to-rear hydraulic ratio

Smaller ratio means more rear bias
Bigger ration means more front bias

The stiffer the suspension, the more rear bias is needed as less weight transfer will occure.

[Massive Lee]

Works with most 15 inch? I have a bbs...not sure of model type but it's got a pretty big lip.

Have you used the measures on the first page? Have you tried the profile in pdf form? Wheels with wide lips, often have flat face backs. You need 23.8mm + 3mm from the hub to the back of the spokes.

Very difficult to know what wheel will wor or not, just looing at their face .