S52 Sub-harness/ Y harness is it needed? (Resolved)

[Lights]

(RESOLVED Look at 2nd post)

I purchased a brand new 99 S52 harness from ECS tuning and I am trying to connect the Sub-harness into the main harness but the connector is incorrect I believe. The Sub-harness connects into the Crankshaft sensor, aswell as the Camshaft sensor and it plugs into the vanos. Has anyone had this issue? From what I see the brand new harness I have is using a "code 2" labeled connector. I compared this with the old harness that I had which does plug into the Sub-harness and it uses a "code 3" labeled connector. Seems like they made a mistake from factory? I don't see how that would be possible but both connectors on each harness are 3 pin with brown, black, and yellow wire colors. I am under the impression that this Sub-harness is 100% needed to run the vehicle because it was introduced as a recall to fix the Crankshaft sensor issues.

In the photos you can see the slight difference between the two connectors.

Can anyone look at these pictures and confirm this for me? My plan is just to take the old harness connector and splice it onto the new one so I can use the Sub-harness but I wanted to get some feedback.
(1) new harness "code 2" connector

(2) old harness "code 3" connector
(3) new harness wire colors
(4) old harness wire colors
(5) old harness plugged in

[Lights]

UPDATE:

The Sub-harness is not needed on a brand new S52 wiring harness from ECS Tuning. The harness has the crankshaft connector on it. I Plugged the Vanos into the injector harness and the car started right up. I definitely was overthinking this one and thought I needed that sub-harness for sure but its not needed for a brand new harness from factory.

Hopefully this helps anyone that was stumped on finding out for sure if they needed the Y harness/ sub-harness. I have been trying to figure it out for weeks hahah. If your harness has the crankshaft connector directly on the main harness you do not need it, if it has the camshaft but not the crankshaft than you use the Y harness used in the recall.

[Northern]

Supposedly that updated harness came from the factory on some cars, but my engine is from an '99 and it still had the sub-harness, so I'm not sure when the changeover happened.

[Lights]

Supposedly that updated harness came from the factory on some cars, but my engine is from an '99 and it still had the sub-harness, so I'm not sure when the changeover happened.

Good to know, yeah my old harness had the sub-harness but when I purchased a brand new one it was a little different and I didn't need to use it anymore. I started my engine and now I am hearing a screeching noise once it starts to warm up. I took off the belt and still hear the screeching noise. I used a stethoscope and it sounds like its bottom end maybe a bearing or something? The engine I bought came with a new head so I know its been overheated at one point. There is also a ticking noise coming from the top maybe like the lifters ticking. Very unfortunate...

[Northern]

Ticking lifters could be fine, because it takes a while for them to fill at idle (from dry, or after an autox run it can take minutes for the ticking to stop.)
If you drive the car around normally and they still tick, then I would worry.

The screeching doesn't sound good.

[ZekeTheSneak]

As far as the screaching is, does it happen when you rev it a little? I had a bad outdated style chain tensioner on the side of the head. They make an early and late model version of the hydraulic tentioner

[Lights]

As far as the screaching is, does it happen when you rev it a little? I had a bad outdated style chain tensioner on the side of the head. They make an early and late model version of the hydraulic tentioner

I took the belt off and started it and the screech still happened. The only part spinning I think would be the main crankshaft harmonic balancer but I do not know if those go bad or not? When I press in on my clutch the noise goes away completely so I think it is the input shaft seal or bearing or something else in the clutch. The only parts not replaced was the clutch fork, pivot pin, and I am replacing the Slave cylinder. The Engine is a S52 and the clutch and flywheel I bought was for a M54 330i Will this work for that engine? I already took the transmission out once and didn't see any clear signs of damage and the car moves back and forth normally besides a squealing noise, slightly different now than the noise in the video I posted. Noise goes away with the clutch barely pressed down, but gets worse when the car starts to warm up.

[jbontke]

Noise goes away with the clutch barely pressed down, but gets worse when the car starts to warm up.

That sounds like a throw out bearing.