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  • Matt-B
    replied
    Yea, just post here, if you have more questions i suppose

    Leave a comment:


  • highoutput
    replied
    Originally posted by Janderson View Post
    That's a good diagram Matt, way to step in with some good information. :up:

    THANK YOU!! Thats the best info I've gotten on anything having to do with this swap so far, lol:D

    I clearly have the E36, so I need the oil pan, but it looks like my mount arms will be good.

    Thanks again!

    Leave a comment:


  • Jand3rson
    replied
    That's a good diagram Matt, way to step in with some good information. :up:

    Leave a comment:


  • Matt-B
    replied
    Originally posted by highoutput View Post
    I'm doing this swap right now too.......The stickies on this site are a big help, but theres a lot of questions I still cant find an answer too, or not a clear one anyway...

    Still dont know how to identify which oil pan is currently on my M50.......
    Still dont know if I need to switch my motor mount arms or not, I heard both ways.....
    And few other real specific things I cant think of right now

    here is a pic I made in MS paint to help you



    the e34 pan has a front sump, and the e36 has a rear sump ( which is basically where the oil sits, and where the pump picks it up from)


    Also you need e36 motor mount arms, they look like these

    Leave a comment:


  • highoutput
    replied
    I'm doing this swap right now too.......The stickies on this site are a big help, but theres a lot of questions I still cant find an answer too, or not a clear one anyway...

    Still dont know how to identify which oil pan is currently on my M50.......
    Still dont know if I need to switch my motor mount arms or not, I heard both ways.....
    And few other real specific things I cant think of right now

    Leave a comment:


  • weaksauce
    replied
    Originally posted by 89/325i View Post
    lol it doesnt but just a few questions i would like to ask before i start buying more crazy parts
    new thread maybe?

    Leave a comment:


  • 89/325i
    replied
    lol it doesnt but just a few questions i would like to ask before i start buying more crazy parts

    Leave a comment:


  • weaksauce
    replied
    Originally posted by 89/325i View Post
    anyone still in this post? doing my first m50 swapped would love an appreciate the help i have most of the parts needed m50 crate motor 5 speed tranny e36 wiring harness, my shell is an automatic but im good to go with making it a manual just need help on mounting the engine an running the harness to the e30
    tried reading the posts on this yet?

    i havn't done the swap, but by reading it doesn't look like rocket science.

    Leave a comment:


  • 89/325i
    replied
    anyone still in this post? doing my first m50 swapped would love an appreciate the help i have most of the parts needed m50 crate motor 5 speed tranny e36 wiring harness, my shell is an automatic but im good to go with making it a manual just need help on mounting the engine an running the harness to the e30

    Leave a comment:


  • Mr.SWISS
    replied
    Couple tid bits:

    OBD1- unless late 94 or 95 likely doesn't have EWS and if so there is a DIY to disable. To get proper temp signal you must switch out the rear most temp sensor usually blue in color and exchange it for the typically brown E30 temp sensor used on M42,S14'sM20's and M10's.

    OBD2- You have two options on EWS:
    Option A- transfer over matching key,EWS module,and DME all from same car. You will need the harness and ring antenna from around ignition. In short, this method is a real pain in the ass and you may as well do an OBD1 harness and sensor swap and use an OBD1 DME to run you engine.



    Option B- Send off your OBD2 DME to a tuner and have the EWS disabled and pay the fee. Bimmerworld,Active, and The Racers Market all do these, and TRM provides a few extra services as well like tunes,trouble code /rear O2 delete, etc. If you are running OBD2 you will need to have the head drilled and tapped for the M20 sensor unless you have a head casting that has a plug there (usually 96/97) or some have removed the nipple in the head and tapped a sensor to fit there. The preferred method is to tap the head. Since OBD@ uses a single sensor for the DME and Gauge temps you will need to get a pigtail connector to splice into the 4 wire temp sensor connection. Here's the info so far.

    The two wires from the temp sensor that run to the e36 instrument cluster are:
    .5 BR/GE (Brown/Yellow)
    .5 BR/VI (Brown/Violet)

    The two wires from the temp sensor to the DME are:
    .5 BR/RT (Brown/Red)
    .5 GR/BR (Gray/Brown)


    I haven't personally tried this yet and will refine it once I start that part of my current swap.

    If you are making you own harness here is a nice link.
    http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...hlight=adapter

    My only edit would be to use a paintbrush, sized close to the pin diameter, and pull out all the bristles. Stab it around and wiggle in a circle.

    Couple parts avail here for swaps:
    G260 transmission brace- has to be modified ( I think he does the shifter rods too)
    http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=192900
    IF you use E36 trans, no need for this use E36 trans mounts.

    Harness adapter:
    http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=137885

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by 7pilot View Post
    The pictured cables are M50 applications and usage is for the M/S 5x in the E30, my bad.

    Your question did actually give some pause for thought, ie Perhaps instead, I could have bent the anchor bracket on the Throttle body towards the Pull linkage to shorten the distance.

    m

    What I meant was, my e34 cable works fine in my e30 with an m50 from an e34. Anyone who uses an e34 m50, will most likely keep all associated brackets, which means the e34 cable will work perfect.

    Leave a comment:


  • 7pilot
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood View Post
    Wouldn't this depend on what the engine is from? My e34 cable works fine on my e34 m50, for example.
    The pictured cables are M50 applications and usage is for the M/S 5x in the E30, my bad.

    Your question did actually give some pause for thought, ie Perhaps instead, I could have bent the anchor bracket on the Throttle body towards the Pull linkage to shorten the distance.

    m

    Leave a comment:


  • JGood
    replied
    Originally posted by 7pilot View Post
    Throttle Cable FYI:
    E34 Vs E36 Cables.
    E34 at the top.
    The E34 cable looks good cosmetically.
    The Achillies heel of the E34 cable is the length of the cable at the throttle body end of the piece.
    It is just a tad short at the TB end. Once installed, and the cable adjusted, the wire is still taut and exerting pull on the linkage. Ergo raised idle. and jumping throttle on bumpy roads.
    You can get some slack by shaving the back side of the anchor grommet by 5mm or so.
    Then it works fine.
    The E36 cable is shorter overall but has more cable exposed at the Throttle body linkage.

    m

    Wouldn't this depend on what the engine is from? My e34 cable works fine on my e34 m50, for example.

    Leave a comment:


  • 7pilot
    replied
    Throttle Cable FYI:
    E34 Vs E36 Cables.
    E34 at the top.
    The E34 cable looks good cosmetically.
    The Achillies heel of the E34 cable is the length of the cable at the throttle body end of the piece.
    It is just a tad short at the TB end. Once installed, and the cable adjusted, the wire is still taut and exerting pull on the linkage. Ergo raised idle. and jumping throttle on bumpy roads.
    You can get some slack by shaving the back side of the anchor grommet by 5mm or so.
    Then it works fine.
    The E36 cable is shorter overall but has more cable exposed at the Throttle body linkage.

    m
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • bdi_fc
    replied
    Checking in...

    I own the site e30dohc.com/wiki, and I noticed how much spam keeps accumulating there.

    I deleted all the user accounts and am in the process of erasing all the spam pages.

    If you want to create a new user account, you will need to verify your email and complete the Captcha. I hope this helps cut down on spam.

    Anyone that wants to clean up spam pages and get $20 paypal'd to them upon completion, send me a PM.

    Also, anyone that wants to have mod powers on the wiki, please let me know. I'm not too active on the e30 scene lately.

    Leave a comment:

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