eBay/Chinese/Replica Header Picture and Review Thread

[dinanm3atl]

I wasn't planning to wrap anything. All I have seen turn a nice color after some heat cycles. I like that :)

[e30nub]

Watch the fleabay seller get a hold of these pics...Just wait. Fabulous camera work!

[dinanm3atl]

Watch the fleabay seller get a hold of these pics...Just wait. Fabulous camera work!

I saw one of my photos get made into a shirt on ebay.UK

[StereoInstaller1]

I just don't get how these are crap. They look far better than the old Hookers I put on my Nova, and they were American made in the 70s, supposed to be the best in their day.

Is it just shitty metal? The workmanship looks just fine. Looks better than 99% of anything out there.

I know any old Chev guy will tell you headers get re-torqued at least once a week for the first 6 weeks just from heat cycling alone. More often that that when they are new!

[Kingb]

you have to shape the subframe to make room. I used a body forming hammer.

They will clear a stock sway bar.

However, you will need to use treehouse LCABs.

I would throw the supplied manifold gaskets in the trash and use OEM bmw ones.

I have the same headers and they and the only thing that I can hear with m50 is rasp. Im thinking abour wrapping them since the motor is waiting another body. The will clear the stock subframe and sway bar. You just have to have the sway bar disconnected and both headers up there to get them into place. Oh and take your studs out. They will not fit with the studs in. Ask me how I know. I lost my patience

[Kingb]

I wasn't planning to wrap anything. All I have seen turn a nice color after some heat cycles. I like that :)

Yeah but these turn purple and not blue like other headers I have seen. These are also very light, so the metal is very thin and thats why they are raspy

[Wishno87]

Have those on my car as well. They do have some rasped to them but I kind of like it. They clear my cabs and stock sway but i had to shim my engine up for now to clear the subframe.

[nando]

I just don't get how these are crap. They look far better than the old Hookers I put on my Nova, and they were American made in the 70s, supposed to be the best in their day.

Is it just shitty metal? The workmanship looks just fine. Looks better than 99% of anything out there.

I know any old Chev guy will tell you headers get re-torqued at least once a week for the first 6 weeks just from heat cycling alone. More often that that when they are new!

because the are too short, the material is thin, the transition to the flange has a big step, and the collectors are the worst of 3 possible designs.

yeah, they look pretty, and they're cheap. that's as far as you can take it.

[M-technik-3]

Installed these on a kids car, they are raspy as mentioned numerous times but they aren't that bad. On a budget they are great.

[richardb]

My set needed to be heated and tweaked as the outlets didn't meet up nice at all out of the box.

[Dissembler]

I have them too and they are working alright. Shimmed the motor up 5mm. This gave me about an inch of clearance to subframe and sway bar. I am also using oem fcabs and have no clearance issues even with the oemheat shield around the lollipop and motor mount arm.

Word of caution:

1. My o2s could not go in. For the 1-3 o2, it would not clear the 4-6 header (remedy below). My 4-6 o2 sensor would not fit in until I gave it more clearance to the firewall by denting it woth a bar and a BFH.

2. The sleeves they iclude to connect to your midpipes suck monkey balls. They are hard to get on and will leak like a siv. My solution was cut the headers to equal lengths (basically right at the point where the 4-6 tube shrinks in diameter) and weld on a 1/4" flange. This also allowed me to use a proper exhaudt gasket, makes the transition from header to mid pipe stronger and lastly, remember how the o2 was being blocked by the other header? Well, by making 2 little flat pieces, you can bolt them to the flanges and so the headers are held apart to give your o2 clearance.

[dinanm3atl]

I didn't use their sleeves. And OBD1 converted so single down stream O2 sensor.

[Dissembler]

I didn't use their sleeves. And OBD1 converted so single down stream O2 sensor.

true, i geuss none of that matters if you go OBD I. My post is only applicable if you stay OBD II utilizing all 4 o2 sensor (or atleast the primaries)

[BMW_TUNER]

Do yourself a favor and use a plane sander on the Head flanges. Mine where uneven because they weld them on and sand them one at a time thus creating a level surface on one flange but all three are not leveled together. Otherwise the four piece raceland headers I used are fine. They have some rasp but nothing to over the top. The Four piece is a better design, smoother transition and angles but they dont make them anymore.

[etxxz]

the exhaust gasket is so thick and compressible that it won't matter.

Ya can't wrap stainless headers, ya fucking newbs!

and why is that?! Mine have been wrapped for many years. Been wet dry overheated still work well. Granted last time i removed them i wanted to rewrap them in black and they were slightly corroded. The wrapping made them look good again. No cracks at the flanges or exhaust leaks. Wet the wrap, wrap it. Let it dry and get tight and you're in business!

at $120shipped or so i paid for these well worth the money!! I welded flanges at the end so to mate with my exhaust. The hardware they come with is junk. My only complaint is the position of the O2 sensors. (obd2 i have two) one of them is on the firewall insulation it bugs the **** out of me when i install the engine ~ i've rebuilt this engine twice, and its been on two different chassis lol i'm sick and tired of removing it.