M52 OBD2 E30 no start :(

[papajetta]

Never mind in pin 81. Ur ecu uses that as an output to the abs module. Did u veryify all of ur grounds ? Especially pin 56. Looks like this is the main ground for driveaway protection. And just making sure that u have 5 ews components.
- ecu
- chipped key
- ews module
- transmitter/ receiver
- ring antenna

all from the same car that u saw started before u removed it?
Because on one of ur last post u mentioned only 3.

[87e30]

This is probably stupid, but fuel lines are hooked up through the funky obd2 FPR properly, correct? Sorry, I had an obd2 m52 car that I couldn't make work and just went obd1, so I'm not too knowledgeable wiring wise.

[ethrty]

was lying in bed last night and sudddenly remembered there is a second x20 plug on the M52 loom which i tucked away because it only had 4 pins on it and noone ever mentioned it. as you can imagine, first thing i did this morning was check that out and turns out that pin 7 on the secondary x20 is it!

will get myself ready for the day (was still in a towel from the shower! thats how much i hope this works!!) and then apply 12V to it and see what happens :)

[ethrty]

Still havent had any luck with starting the car yet. Have checked over my wiring 3 times and every time it comes back sweet! have verified voltages across the correct wires at the correct time and everything *should* work. But it doesnt.

Have brought a Diagnositic Scanner, and its coming up with the following errors

18 - EWS - Signal Defective/No Camshaft Bore Signal. Huh??

217 - EGS - No contact with the automatic transmission. Is this talking about the shift selector switch, or is it wanting to be able to talk to the transmissions computer? I do not have the automatic computer. Is it possible to desolder/unclip a particular chip in the manual ECU and put it into my auto ECU? Or any other ideas i havent thought of?

81 - ABS/ASC - Increased no load speed. WTF?? ABS/ASC is non existant in my car. no idea on how to get around this. again, is it looking for a 12v or 0v signal, or is it wanting to be able to talk to the ABS/ASC computer, or something else?

I also know the pins now, and the number at the start of each of the above is the pin they give/recieve thier respective signals from on the ECU

You guys think it would be a good idea to post this on an E36 specific forum? Thanks for your help! Andy

This is probably stupid, but fuel lines are hooked up through the funky obd2 FPR properly, correct? Sorry, I had an obd2 m52 car that I couldn't make work and just went obd1, so I'm not too knowledgeable wiring wise.

From what i can figure out yes

[ethrty]

bump! helppp!

[ethrty]

Okay so after hours and hours of research, the use of my diagnositc scanner and few meters of wiring, i have gotten rid of ABS/ASC and the EGS (auto tranny computer)) faults. Now it really is just the good old EWS to go

So heres the latest issue

My Scanner brings up the 18-EWS fault code, which means the fault is on ECU pin 18 and to do with the EWS. Pin 18 on the ECU is directly connected to X20 pin 7 on the engine wiring loom, which in turn is supposed to be connected to pin 4 on the EWS control unit which i have done. (I have read that soldering this connection can alter the reading, and is therefore not advisable to solder it.)

Now this is where it gets confusing. I am using an actual BMW wiring manual to find out the following (link here)
I have read that the ECU needs a feedback line to talk back to the EWS. If you go to the EWS page of that manual, it says the feedback line is EWS pin12/x20 pin 20/ecu pin36.
However, if you go to the M52 DME page of that manual, is says that pin 36 on the ECU is connected to the gauge cluster. Moreover, according to the many wiring diagrams i have read and cross checked with for my M5x/E30 wiring adaptor, x20 pin20 is used for the engine speed (which makes sence given, as aforemention, in the E36 it aparently goes to the gauge cluster)
To me it makes no sence why EWS has any thing to do with the E36 gauge cluster.

So this leads me back to what the scanner says. Does the above feedback line have to be connected up so that the ECU can send the signal to the EWS to then get a responce through EWSpin4/x20pin7/ecupin18.

If noone can answer that question, maybe someone can tell me what to do for the feedback line??

Thanks so much for the help guys! im only a meter worth of wiring away from getting this engine started!
Andy

[ethrty]

bump

[ethrty]

okay so ive been researching and condensing wiring information from a variety of sources, and since last update i have:

- Connected Pin4EWS to Pin18ECU via Pin7x20
- Connected Pin12EWS to Pin36ECU via Pin20x20
- Connected Pin9EWS to ACC/Run 12V (Transimission range switch)

This takes care of all of the fault codes i ran into that ii mentioned earlier on in the thread.

However now the engine does not want to crank over at all. This has nothing to do with the ECU/EWS, in fact anything to do with the M52 conversion at all, as the EWS is bypassed as im using the factory E30 starter and wiring. Something is a bit strange, as the car cranked 100% happily before. I have looked for loose connections and i cannot see any at all. engine is grounded well. voltage across the battery when i turn the key drops to between 2V and 5V, even though the car is connected to a seperate running car for jumpstarting (the other car doesnt make any noticible reaction to my turning the key to start on the E30)

Also have a body drain somewhere, as when i connect the E30 fusebox 12V wire, the voltage of the battery slowly decreases

Something else i have noticed is that when i turn the ignition to ON, the taillights come on. no idea how this happened. do the taillights use a C101 pin? seems very strange that they would, but thats the only way i can think of that would make them do that all of a sudden! The headlights do not come on at the same time.

Any ideas?

[ethrty]

Anyone?

The main relay clicks itself on and off when i turn the car to on, and then in start the car does absolutely nothing at all. Have gone back to my first wiring adaptor that i made in which only one wire was connected to the EWS, and even that doesnt let the starter motor turn over anymore

have checked the wiring to the starter motor and its fine. checked resistances in both the positive and negative, the latter including through the grounding strap.

HELP!!!!

[etxxz]

Question 1: Do you have Spark? ie. unplug a coil and see if you get shocked or if it creates an arc with your block.

Question 2: How much wiring did you do on the EWS? ie. why doesnt i crank now ~ did you wire you starter through the EWS too? if so, if it cranked before you should have fuel and spark and the problem isnt the EWS.

if your wiring diagrams are in a sensible and organized manner i will review them and give you feedback. I will send you a pm with my e-mail. Its about the only other way i could lend you a hand. Have you read this?

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=100950

sounds like you have a wiring nightmare on your hands. consider that i can make the adapter for you ; /

-etxx

[ethrty]

Question 1: Do you have Spark? ie. unplug a coil and see if you get shocked or if it creates an arc with your block.

Question 2: How much wiring did you do on the EWS? ie. why doesnt i crank now ~ did you wire you starter through the EWS too? if so, if it cranked before you should have fuel and spark and the problem isnt the EWS.

if your wiring diagrams are in a sensible and organized manner i will review them and give you feedback. I will send you a pm with my e-mail. Its about the only other way i could lend you a hand. Have you read this?

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=100950

sounds like you have a wiring nightmare on your hands. consider that i can make the adapter for you ; /

-etxx

1. car does not crank over at all any more so cant test for spark as the crank doesnt move = spark plug doesnt fire. Will be testing for that once the starter is sorted
2. Starter is not wired through EWS. Thought it was one less headache i could do without, though in hind sight, it might be a good idea to reroute it through it as at least then i will KNOW if the EWS is fine because if it cranks its good, if not then it isnt
3. Yes i have read your link. Was one of my primary sources of wiring information, as there arent a hell of a lot of threads on OBD2 on the internet. The wiring diagram that i have put together is in my diagram review thread here http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=169109
any help reviewing that would be fantastic.
4, will keep that in mind ;p

[etxxz]

so i'm gonna do just one thread since thisone has more momentum. I have a ton of comments… I would consider taking your adapter completely apart and starting from almost scratch.

So,

Disconnect EWS-2 completely. The EWSII unit is like a crystal ball. You want to interface with it as little as possible. Disconnect x20-20 to EWS-12. Don't get fancy on me. Your cruise control runs from the e30 body harness. X20 -16 for my diagrams are a data link. You have it as static OLS. Either cars in NZ are different or you're wrong here. Please double check your ETM and lmk.. you might be wiring an apple, but I'm trying to wire an orange. I'm using pinouts i made for a fellow forumner with a 90 325is.

If you have A/C I suggest you take X20 to pin 74 of the DME such that when you turn on your compressor (given you used the e30 buttom/wire that goes to the e30 compressor) the engine idle is adjusted automatically ; /
nothing on ews pin 9.
c101-2 directly to OLS-1 (static)
c101-4 directly to m20 brown top sensor!! (which is grounded to the head/block if not tapped into the head) This takes the signal from the right sensor directly to the gauge cluster. You MUST use the OE e30 sensor.
c101-10 to pin 2 of your OLS!! (dynamic)
c101-15 goes to the 30h juntion/nut of the starter… this may be your starter problem. Your starter is pin 18 (c101-18 to x20-18 actually) so looks like you wired it twice??
On a facelift model you want x20-19 to c101-11. This is your tachometre.

These are a lot of changes. I would make sure first that you got the same hardware/electrical as we did....

[ethrty]

Thanks so much for that! Definately looks like a start over job! So other than the connections mentioned there everything else remains the same as what i already have correct?

OLS = Oil level sensor? where would i find that on the M52?

[ethrty]

So this is my updated diagram then



Only thing i notice with that though, why are there two signals sent to the tacho P9C101 and P11C101?

Ill whip this modified adaptor up once youve checked it off if you can!
Andy

[etxxz]

P11C101 is a service interval reset for the e30 my bad... i have nothing wired to this pin.

the correct tach wiring is P9C101 to P20X20
You want P14C101 to P19X20.. that's right.

p18 to p18 don't worry about 30h there. This is what's gonna crank your starter from the e30 tumbler.
P15C101 just run a wire from this wire to the 30h nut of the starter. This pin never interfaces with e36 electronics. Its your unloader circuit for power windows sunroof etc etc.

there ya go homes.