This makes me worried about the PP bolts on my JBR flywheel. I don't believe I used any loc-tite on them, and the recommended torque seemed pretty low.
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'89 Alpine S52 with goodies -
here is the lesson - don't buy garbage aftermarket pressure plates/disks. Go sachs or go home. 618pp FTW.Comment
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well, the oem is certainly better, but i don't know if i agree that this is the fault. i noticed that you mentioned above that you are using (i presume) a lightweight aluminum fly? seems like i also vaguely remember having this conversation with you when we were doing our swaps. i know lots of people run these on the street, but i have had more than one person tell me that they are designed for racing use only. i recall one guy mentioning that he had trouble keeping the bolts tight in his. perhaps due to the engine being a little more out of balance. i am not dissin' your mechanic skills eric, but i might venture a guess to say that a combination of the light weight fly in addition to the possibility of not having the bolts tightened down properly could have caused your premature failure.Originally posted by nando View Postsigpic
Gigitty Gigitty!!!!
88 cabrio becoming alpina b6 3.5s transplanted s62
92 Mtech 2 cabrio alpinweiss 770 code
88 325ix coupe manual lachsilber/cardinal
88 325ix coupe manual diamondschwartz/natur
87 e30 m3 for parts lachsilber/cardinal(serial number 7)
12 135i M sport cabrio grey/blackComment
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Unfortunately, I have more bad news. I had a third clutch failure on my swap this past week.
The clutch I originally emailed about was the first clutch. I ordered a second clutch from Ireland Engineering. During the installation of the second clutch, the clutch supported the weight of the transmission for several days after I left the transmission halfway installed, suspended by my hydraulic floor jack. I stopped mid-installation because I was frustrated, and returned three days later and was alarmed to find that my jack had sunk about 6". When the second clutch failed, I chalked it up to my stupidity. I ordered a third clutch from Ireland Engineering and installed it without issue.
Instead of writing an entertaining post, I've decided to list the facts I know in hopes that it will be more clear.
* three clutches broken, one ebay special, and two from IE
* second clutch supported transmission for three days
* second clutch lasted for 3 weeks before failure
* third clutch lasted for 4 days before failure
* happens around 7k rpm, maybe 7.5k
* on the last clutch, two straps appear to be bent, and one broken
* the last two failures have happened when abruptly decelerating (without brake or clutch), but not downshifting
* on the last two clutches, the shifting has worked fine prior to breakage
* no vibration prior to breakage
* driveshaft slightly out of alignment
* new bolts used for the last two clutches
* during removal the last clutch, the bolts attaching the clutch to the flywheel, and the flywheel to the crankshaft were still torqued correctly to specifications
* running a 4.10 lsd
* running a Getrag 260
* lightened, balanced M20 flywheel
* less than .0005" radial and axial runout on the flywheel
* less than .0005" radial runout on the visible part of the crankshaft
When I say "abrupt deceleration", I mean I pulled my foot off the gas real quick without depressing the clutch or brake.
While the 4.10 diff makes it difficult to shift quickly enough, I'll be the first to admit I have no idea what proper shifting technique involves.
I've dropped the flywheel off at a different machine shop to have the balance checked.
After having three clutch failures, I'm considering having the third clutch repaired with thicker, or more straps.
Seeing the bent straps makes me think it maybe reverse loading described in this post: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...1&postcount=10
Here are a couple pictures of the last clutch failure:
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have you checked your crank bolt yet?
seriously i can almost garuntee that is the problem cause i have been down this road already with identical results and since we tightened the crank bolt its been 6 months on this clutch with no issues and a day at the trackComment
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7500RPM? Seriously?Comment
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its a s enigine, why not?^^
and i agree with ricksloan...sigpicComment
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If 7500 isn't ok, where should I stop?
Sorry for not mentioning the crankbolt. I checked it on the installation of the second clutch, the third clutch, and the removal of the third clutch.Comment
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7k on S motors. 7200 on M.Comment
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You mean M as in a regular old 24v straight 6?
'89 Alpine S52 with goodiesComment
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You may have bent the transmission input shaft by letting it support the weight of the transmission for a couple days.Comment
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I'm not trying to tread jack, but what is redline set at on the TRM chips?Originally posted by matt View PostComment
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but what does that have to do with the pressure plate failing?Originally posted by matt View Post
the sachs 618pp on my car doesn't seem to mind ~7500.. of course I don't know that I've ever lifted at that speed. I have beat the shit out of this clutch/PP over the last 4 years though.
starting to think a combo of supar parts and driver error..Comment
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I just checked, and I've got .001 of runout on the end of the transmission input shaft.Originally posted by Gnarles View Post
I spoke with Rob Levinson at UUC yesterday about this problem. He asked what clutch I had, and I told him it was a sachs. He said that quite a few vendors (UUC, bimmerworld, IE) buy the clutch parts from sachs, but then assemble them in house.Originally posted by nando View Post
I'd love for this to be driver error problem. I thought taking my foot off the gas was an acceptable way to slow down. Is that not the case at 7500?Comment
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what specific pressure plate did you have? or do you not know? Just whatever IE felt like sending you?
It should be fine to let off at that speed. I mean, I engine brake all the time, slowing my ~3000lb car down from 60-70mph every day. I just haven't done it at that particular RPM.
the 618pp is like $500 these days but it may be worth every penny..Comment
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