S50 electric PUSHER fan option
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so one can only use high/low functionality if used in conjunction with a fan controller?
I think Stück was able to do something utilizing stock wiring, but I cannot figure it out.Originally posted by FredKHowever, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).
My year in Germany
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You have that backwards sort of. You can only use one (high or low) without the use of a suitable fan speed controller.
Either I read you wrong or you pulled a ninja edit. lol Potato, patatosigpicComment
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ok.... but when the high fan kicks on, low will not work anymore right?
After inquiring, i recieved a response from Stück
I just wasn't sure how the fan will run two speeds but i guess i'll just keep it wired to the high. i give upOriginally posted by StückI took the low and high speed wires out of the rad temp switch, moved the high speed to the low pin, and grounded the low speed wire to the ground with a scotchlock.
Key on = low on, low temp trigger = high on.
Originally posted by FredKHowever, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).
My year in Germany
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OK, since your fan doesn't seem to have the dual inputs, here is a way to do it.
Go look at page 6454-1 of the ETM.
You will see the fan is, of course, a 2 wire motor (as most all motors are) but somewhere, there is a 6 ohm heavy duty resistor. I have NFC where it is, but it has a black wire on one side, then red on the other.
If you measure voltage at the stock fan, the low speed side should be about 9V, the high speed right at operating voltage, so more than 12V if the car is running.
You can simply parallel those wires together if you see 2 different voltages, or tear apart the stock fan motor and see if the resistor is inside the motor, then wire that in.
GL!
LukeComment
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The stock fan has a resistor block attached to the shroud.
From digging through more threads, the three wires to the oem aux fan are 2 grounds (high/low switched) and a positive. So the stock relay controls the grounding to the high/low functionality.
So it may be possible to just wire both grounds (resistor in place between for the low functionality) and supply a power and it should act as stock configuration?Originally posted by nandoyeah, easily. you could just connect brown/black & black/black (high and low speeds) to the ground of your new fan, and then the power to the green/black wire. the rest works as normal, although your fan will only really have one speed without the resistor in place.
I think it makes a bit more sense now what Stück was saying, except he permanently grounded the low relay so the fan was always at least on low.... then by switching the temperature switch wires from high to low, the high speed functionality would turn on when the temperature switch reached it's low "trigger"
A eureka moment is just around the corner, i just have to check wiring diagrams to make sure
HUGE thanks to everyone for all input.Originally posted by FredKHowever, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).
My year in Germany
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I wired in a spal pusher and kept the two speed functionality. There are two power wires and one ground in the stock aux fan wiring. The low speed has the 6 ohm resistor inline that you will reuse if you want the low speed to work. Attach both power wires to the single positive lead on the fan and hook up the ground. The fan switch connects to a high speed relay and a separate low speed relay that will switch on the appropriate fan circuit when triggered.Comment
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^perfectOriginally posted by FredKHowever, in your absence, I will likely sit in your seat buck naked while making racecar noises as if I were maxing your E30 out on the Mulsanne Straight while allowing the perforated vinyl to soak up my butt sweat (going 200 mph does that to you).
My year in Germany
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No, that would be 100% wrong. There are 2 positives and 1 ground going to the fan. Use that resistor on the shroud to allow "normal" (compared to "High speed") to function as designed.
Yeah, but he is not talking about the output of the relays. The only "ground" is when you are talking about the input, or "trigger" of the relay.I think it makes a bit more sense now what Stück was saying, except he permanently grounded the low relay so the fan was always at least on low.... then by switching the temperature switch wires from high to low, the high speed functionality would turn on when the temperature switch reached it's low "trigger"
BTW: that resistor is NOT intended for full-time use, it is intended for occasional use, or when the A/C is on. It will be fine, just expect it to not last as long as normal.
Have you downloaded the ETMs yet? Go check out section 6454.Comment
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i dont understand why most people run the AC switch thing. I put an aftermarket fan of some sort in there running off a 81C fan switch in the radiator run to the high speed wiring and the stock fan wiring. Works perfect.
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