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    #31
    You have a machine shop in your back yard to "properly" rebuild the top end including a shave of the head? What about the retainers ($90), the HG kit ($201)... ? Then you have Cams. Unless they are free... do you have cam locks already? What about the VANOS unit? It doesn't break the bank at $60 ($65.00 if you get the modified 18mm socket which you WILL need, ask me how I know...) but it's still a cost. Coolant, oil, assembly lube... You're already at $400 without the cams. So, throw S50 cams in there... $700 (if you get a screaming deal at $300). The cam locks, VANOS timing tool, cam installation/removal tool puts you at $1,100. Hrm. And you haven't even touched the thermostat, radiator, wire harness...
    Need a part? PM me.

    Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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      #32
      You have a machine shop in your back yard to "properly" rebuild the top end including a shave of the head?
      So to you "properly" is to shave the head even if its perfectly flat? I am general mechanic maybe you never built any engines and only know what you read online

      radiator, wire harness...
      I am not talking about cost of the swap, you missed my argument! go back to post #17

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        #33
        Originally posted by HakenTT View Post
        So to you "properly" is to shave the head even if its perfectly flat? I am general mechanic maybe you never built any engines and only know what you read online


        I am not talking about cost of the swap, you missed my argument! go back to post #17
        So you also have the tools to bore the block? Or just shorten the stroke with some new pistons or a different crank? (excuse me, as I haven't rebuilt an engine... but I know that displacement comes from SOMEWHERE)

        Plus the cost of rebuilding a head, which just with basic parts should be like 700 dollars in parts if you're going to do a decent job. That's no cams or anything.
        Originally posted by z31maniac
        I just hate everyone.

        No need for discretion.

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          #34
          Originally posted by HakenTT View Post
          So to you "properly" is to shave the head even if its perfectly flat? I am general mechanic maybe you never built any engines and only know what you read online


          I am not talking about cost of the swap, you missed my argument! go back to post #17

          No, I say take it to a machine shop to make sure it's flat. And if it's not, it will require a shave. To "properly" go about it, you pretty much need to. You have a pressure tester? What exactly do you have beyond a condescending, mildly ignorant attitude that you throw around a bit too much? You're making outlandish claims and calling everyone else stupid for not just "taking your word for it" because you've "done it before and will do it again".
          Need a part? PM me.

          Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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            #35
            Originally posted by 87e30 View Post
            So you also have the tools to bore the block? Or just shorten the stroke with some new pistons or a different crank? (excuse me, as I haven't rebuilt an engine... but I know that displacement comes from SOMEWHERE)

            Plus the cost of rebuilding a head, which just with basic parts should be like 700 dollars in parts if you're going to do a decent job. That's no cams or anything.
            Well you're disqualified. Sorry. You're not a super general mechanic with years of experience... in your back yard.


            But, you nailed it with the costs. I just redid my top end on the S50.
            Need a part? PM me.

            Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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              #36
              I can't wait to read this writeup, so I can charge $2k to rebuild and modify 24v engines for $1k, all day long in my backyard. It's a shame none of the other engine builders, known worldwide, have been able to do this!
              85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
              e30 restoration and V8 swap
              24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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                #37
                Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
                You have a machine shop in your back yard to "properly" rebuild the top end including a shave of the head? What about the retainers ($90), the HG kit ($201)... ? Then you have Cams. Unless they are free... do you have cam locks already? What about the VANOS unit? It doesn't break the bank at $60 ($65.00 if you get the modified 18mm socket which you WILL need, ask me how I know...) but it's still a cost. Coolant, oil, assembly lube... You're already at $400 without the cams. So, throw S50 cams in there... $700 (if you get a screaming deal at $300). The cam locks, VANOS timing tool, cam installation/removal tool puts you at $1,100. Hrm. And you haven't even touched the thermostat, radiator, wire harness...


                whaaaaaa 201 for a head gasket kit?!?! lol i love partially owning a shop and getting kits for 85-105 ;)
                sigpic
                ^Back in the game^
                BUILD THREAD: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=201281
                FS thread:
                http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=214105

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                  #38
                  You're making outlandish claims and calling everyone else stupid for not just "taking your word for it"
                  I haven't call anybody names, and you seem to get upset for nothing. I told you guys I am working on the write up and it will be done within two months, until then don't take my word.

                  I say take it to a machine shop to make sure it's flat. And if it's not, it will require a shave. To "properly" go about it, you pretty much need to.
                  This is where you are wrong. If the head requires milling it is junk head, it was overheated and it is not worthy of using it for your project car.

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                    #39
                    Shaving the head to be flat again is for losers. I prefer to just not check.
                    Originally posted by z31maniac
                    I just hate everyone.

                    No need for discretion.

                    Comment


                      #40
                      or just shave 20 thousants off and rais the hell out of compression and make sure u have good valve cutouts ;)
                      sigpic
                      ^Back in the game^
                      BUILD THREAD: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=201281
                      FS thread:
                      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=214105

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by HakenTT View Post
                        I haven't call anybody names, and you seem to get upset for nothing. I told you guys I am working on the write up and it will be done within two months, until then don't take my word.



                        This is where you are wrong. If the head requires milling it is junk head, it was overheated and it is not worthy of using it for your project car.


                        Hahahahahaahahahahahahahahahahahaha!
                        Need a part? PM me.

                        Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

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                          #42
                          Jesus christ some of you guys really go out of your way just to prove to someone that they can't accomplish something. If you don't think he can do it then that his fucking problem people.

                          No need to get all bent out of shape over this.
                          IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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                            #43
                            I do believe this might be the dumbest 24V thread yet.

                            $1K for a 24V rebuild? Show me, bubba.

                            Closing SOON!
                            "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                            Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                            Thanks for 10 years of fun!

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by HakenTT View Post
                              This is where you are wrong. If the head requires milling it is junk head, it was overheated and it is not worthy of using it for your project car.
                              What?. No.

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