S52 engine noise

[jasapp]

Stolen pic but look on the far left counterweight.

So the thing with teeth on the left is being read by my cps, but that doesn't do anything for dampening vibrations, right? realoem shows a vibration damper in addition to the impulse wheel on the back of the crankshaft.

And whyd you buy a treehouse adapter?

http://www.markertmotorworks.com/Cus..._Harness_.html

;)

Heh, honestly 3 years ago Jon was the only guy that didn't baulk at making one for a euro running OBD2.

[328ijunkie]

ah. ive converted 2 different euro cars ;)

And yeah youre supposed to have a dampener on the front crank pulley. Nothing anywhere else. And i still doubt youre revving to 7500. Motor would have grenaded by now.

[Mr.SWISS]

Dude you need to holla at your local peeps you have sunk way too much coin to be where you are. You can drive my E30S52 if you want,I had exhaust put on today.

[jasapp]

Dude you need to holla at your local peeps you have sunk way too much coin to be where you are. You can drive my E30S52 if you want,I had exhaust put on today.

Sure, I'd love to drive it. I'll give you a shout next time I'm in Tulsa.

Grant saw my swap last summer when it was working, and said it was clean. That was after I'd put the motor mounts on right. I talked to him about the clutch issues and he was stumped.

I'm trying to find a machine shop around here that will get that bolt out with the crank still in the engine. If I have to take the crank out, I'll definitely be looking for some help.

[Mr.SWISS]

Sure, I'd love to drive it. I'll give you a shout next time I'm in Tulsa.

Grant saw my swap last summer when it was working, and said it was clean. That was after I'd put the motor mounts on right. I talked to him about the clutch issues and he was stumped.

I'm trying to find a machine shop around here that will get that bolt out with the crank still in the engine. If I have to take the crank out, I'll definitely be looking for some help.

Good luck with that I could'nt find a shop to rethread the e46 block without tearing it all down. However with the engine standing on end with say and an auto flywheel bolted to it you may be able to slide a drill press over it. This is scary shit but I guess where you are it's a possible new crank anyway. :???:

[jasapp]

Good luck with that I could'nt find a shop to rethread the e46 block without tearing it all down. However with the engine standing on end with say and an auto flywheel bolted to it you may be able to slide a drill press over it. This is scary shit but I guess where you are it's a possible new crank anyway. :???:

I talked to Buddy Rice's shop here in OKC. I showed him the bolt, told him what happened, and what it was torqued to. He seemed to think getting it out with the engine together wouldn't be an issue at all. He did say they send stuff like that out to another shop, so it'd be a couple weeks. I guess we'll see what happens.

[jrdeamicis]

A bolt that size and torqued down that high is not going to come out of the crank very easily. I would be very weary about letting people "try" to get it out. Because I can almost promise you that in their attempt to remove the bolt that crank might get damaged. Then you have labor costs + the loss of a crank.

If you at least have the crank out and give the machine shop a chance you can keep your crank. But if it takes them 2 hours to remove the bolt and they charge $100 / hr for labor. You could just buy a used crank for that cost.

A good shop knows when to say no.

[Adrian_Visser]

Drilling it out in incremental sizes is the only way it's coming out. The problem is that it's going to be a very hard, very tough steel alloy and it will take a damn good drill bit to stand up to it. A drill press will do this job much easier than doing it by hand, it could be done with some care, a good drill and some quality cobalt drill bits though.

When the head of the bolt snapped off the torque was relieved from the bolt.

[scottinAZ]

When the head of the bolt snapped off the torque was relieved from the bolt.

given the size of the bolt, I would be concerned with thread galling as well. takes a huge amount of torque to break off a bolt that size

[jrdeamicis]

Drilling it out in incremental sizes is the only way it's coming out. The problem is that it's going to be a very hard, very tough steel alloy and it will take a damn good drill bit to stand up to it. A drill press will do this job much easier than doing it by hand, it could be done with some care, a good drill and some quality cobalt drill bits though.

When the head of the bolt snapped off the torque was relieved from the bolt.

This sounds like the job from HELL.

I wouldn't even attempt it without the crank in a drill press.

[Mr.SWISS]

This sounds like the job from HELL.

I wouldn't even attempt it without the crank in a drill press.

[jasapp]

I got the engine back. The machine shop got it out with much trouble. The threads look pretty good. Total: $100.

[e30rapidic]

I got the engine back. The machine shop got it out with much trouble. The threads look pretty good. Total: $100.

not bad! could have been a lot worse!

[R3Z3N]

I know a guy that can zap out bolts, they just disintigrate, leaving the threads perfect. Not cheap, and he's one of less than a handful of people in the states that does it, so you'd have to fly him out there. He's done stuff for NASA on their rockets ;-) For the price of it though, buy another crank....

EDIT: just saw your last post. Nice!

[Mr.SWISS]

I know a guy that can zap out bolts, they just disintigrate, leaving the threads perfect. Not cheap, and he's one of less than a handful of people in the states that does it, so you'd have to fly him out there. He's done stuff for NASA on their rockets ;-) For the price of it though, buy another crank....

EDIT: just saw your last post. Nice!

No you don't I know a guy in town that has the tungsten probe also. :p



J you want some help bro?