S52 engine noise

[Jszy25]

Damn, that's a looooot of torque to snap that bolt.

[jasapp]

Damn, that's a looooot of torque to snap that bolt.

1/2" breaker bar, a 4' pipe, and me hanging on to the end.

J you want some help bro?

I need to replace the timing chain guide. I'm going to take a look at it tonight. If it looks over my head, I'll definitely need some help.

[Mr.SWISS]

1/2" breaker bar, a 4' pipe, and me hanging on to the end.



I need to replace the timing chain guide. I'm going to take a look at it tonight. If it looks over my head, I'll definitely need some help.

I have a been there, done that shirt. juss sayin. ( and cam tools too)

[jasapp]

I have a been there, done that shirt. juss sayin. ( and cam tools too)

Does the head need to come off? People have told me both ways.

[ForcedFirebird]

A bolt that size and torqued down that high is not going to come out of the crank very easily. I would be very weary about letting people "try" to get it out. Because I can almost promise you that in their attempt to remove the bolt that crank might get damaged. Then you have labor costs + the loss of a crank.

If you at least have the crank out and give the machine shop a chance you can keep your crank. But if it takes them 2 hours to remove the bolt and they charge $100 / hr for labor. You could just buy a used crank for that cost.

A good shop knows when to say no.

given the size of the bolt, I would be concerned with thread galling as well. takes a huge amount of torque to break off a bolt that size

On the contrary, the bolt should be fairly easy to remove since the surface that torque is being measured from is the bolt head (that is now missing). A drill, reverse tap and reverse thread bolt should have easily removed it, the only pressure on the threads would be the rust holding it in. The bolt would have to be completely imbedded to the bottom of the blind hole for any pressure to be left on it.

[Jszy25]

1/2" breaker bar, a 4' pipe, and me hanging on to the end.

that'll do it :D

[Mr.SWISS]

Does the head need to come off? People have told me both ways.

Meh.... NO BUT, It does make it easier to bolt up the timing cover and set the head on it.

lolz bmw special tool piece o sheet metal!

[jrdeamicis]

On the contrary, the bolt should be fairly easy to remove since the surface that torque is being measured from is the bolt head (that is now missing). A drill, reverse tap and reverse thread bolt should have easily removed it, the only pressure on the threads would be the rust holding it in. The bolt would have to be completely imbedded to the bottom of the blind hole for any pressure to be left on it.

Thanks for the info.

[jasapp]

I don't think I ever mentioned this. The noise in the video I originally posted turned out not to be a rod bearing, but another failed clutch. All of the rods had zero play. There were no bits of bearings to be found in the oil pan either.

However, I did find these bits of plastic in the oil pan:


I'm assuming it's part of one of the timing chain guides. I've got the engine out right now, and I figure I should replace whatever broke. Then I started trying to remove the lower timing chain cover and I suddenly wanted to be very lazy and not replace them. Now I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle.

Someone call me stupid and lazy for considering not replacing them.
I should fix this while I've got the engine out, right?

[Mr.SWISS]

I don't think I ever mentioned this. The noise in the video I originally posted turned out not to be a rod bearing, but another failed clutch. All of the rods had zero play. There were no bits of bearings to be found in the oil pan either.

However, I did find these bits of plastic in the oil pan:


I'm assuming it's part of one of the timing chain guides. I've got the engine out right now, and I figure I should replace whatever broke. Then I started trying to remove the lower timing chain cover and I suddenly wanted to be very lazy and not replace them. Now I'm wondering if it's worth the hassle.

Someone call me stupid and lazy for considering not replacing them.
I should fix this while I've got the engine out, right?

PAck the motor and road trip to Tulsa this weekend, I'll clear out Sat schedule and help you button this up and time it. Then just drop it in and be done holmes.

[jasapp]

PAck the motor and road trip to Tulsa this weekend, I'll clear out Sat schedule and help you button this up and time it. Then just drop it in and be done holmes.

I'd have to rent a truck. I'd be ok with that, but how do I know which of the timing chain guide parts actually broke so I can get up there and back on Saturday?

I'm trying to sway Grant into helping me right now. If that doesn't work, I'll figure something out and get the engine up there.

[jasapp]

So apparently(?) you need some kind of special tool to hold the cams in place. I found the page in the Haynes manual that shows the sheet metal tool. But I didn't have any tin snips to make it, and in fact I didn't have any sheet metal either.

I did have a pair of scissors and some cardboard. I didn't have a long enough piece of cardboard though, so I had to tape it together in the center. It works great!

[jasapp]

I'm just kidding. In typical fashion I got distracted and figured I'd make a set of the cam blocks. Then I figured why not make a whole bunch? The blocks themselves are black anodized aluminum. The bridge is 1/4" stainless. All the hardware is stainless and metric. They turned out pretty good. Now back to whatever I was supposed to be working on...

[lbreevesii]

^ I love/hate you for those last two posts. I nearly lost it when i saw the cardboard.

Now If I didn't already own a set of cam locks, i'd buy a set of those!

[jrdeamicis]

You must replace those items or you will regret it.

Broken timing chain covers, Broken Chain, Destroyed Head? Destroyed Pistons?