Official Electric Fan wiring thread!

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    Or you could wire it the way i posted so you dont have to mess with any of that ;)

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  • Highway1
    replied
    Thanks 328ijunkie, i'll check out the relay. i know it's not my resistor because i wired the fan up to 12v directly and both low and high speed work. also the snowflake stays illuminated while the relay makes that sound

    ... Or I may just wire up my own relay directly to the temp switch and bypass the whole a/c system entirely.

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    Originally posted by Highway1
    When I jumper the three prong plug on the pass side I get no fan. the fan tested out good and I swapped around my relays and still nothing. not even when i push the snowflake.
    any ideas?
    Try jumpering different pins. It kinda seems like your fan resistor is blown. Check all fuses.

    Originally posted by devon.818
    i have the spal fan and spal kit from bimmerworld.
    doesnt work! but i think its wired wrong:

    atempt 1- red wire from module to (+) and yellow to (-) and the grey wire to the thermostat...
    it is supposed to be hassle free, on and off by itself, but it wouldnt turn off without me pulling the fuse


    so attempt 2- more of a fix to pulling the fuse. spliced in before the fuse and wired a AUX switch.


    but in attempt 1, did i wire it wrong? bimmerworld and the spal directions said to do it tht way...?
    i have no idea what kit/module youre using so i cant tell you much as far as whats going on with it. Can you post up the diagram they included in the kit?

    Originally posted by Highway1
    Ok well I tried pushing the snowflake button again and the fan turned on for about 15 seconds. then it cut out. After it cut out i noticed a relay clicking on-off about every 5 seconds. i traced the sound under the dash and found the A/C relay. is that clicking normal? bad relay? shorting out?
    AC switch may be going bad from the sound of that. Or poss that relay but i would keep investigating why high speed (non snowflake speed) doesnt work.

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  • Highway1
    replied
    Ok well I tried pushing the snowflake button again and the fan turned on for about 15 seconds. then it cut out. After it cut out i noticed a relay clicking on-off about every 5 seconds. i traced the sound under the dash and found the A/C relay. is that clicking normal? bad relay? shorting out?

    Leave a comment:


  • devon.818
    replied
    i have the spal fan and spal kit from bimmerworld.
    doesnt work! but i think its wired wrong:

    atempt 1- red wire from module to (+) and yellow to (-) and the grey wire to the thermostat...
    it is supposed to be hassle free, on and off by itself, but it wouldnt turn off without me pulling the fuse


    so attempt 2- more of a fix to pulling the fuse. spliced in before the fuse and wired a AUX switch.


    but in attempt 1, did i wire it wrong? bimmerworld and the spal directions said to do it tht way...?

    Leave a comment:


  • Highway1
    replied
    When I jumper the three prong plug on the pass side I get no fan. the fan tested out good and I swapped around my relays and still nothing. not even when i push the snowflake.
    any ideas?

    Leave a comment:


  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    Just wire in the fan switch i mentioned and reuse stock fan wiring. Should function as fractory would

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  • e30shmobberr
    replied
    What about if i am going to use the stock fan for the ac? how does that get wired

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  • cbusrehab
    replied
    Are people running only 1 electric fan if you still have A/C? I'm in the process of hooking up the A/C and trying to decide if I should keep the AUX fan and add an electric puller or get rid of AUX and only use the electric fan. What are your thoughts?

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  • giantkeeper
    replied
    I bet that is why mine doesn't either. As a matter of fact I can likely pinpoint when mine went

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  • nando
    replied
    good to know about the diode, I know mine doesn't work with the button, and neither did the low speed. I bet the diode is bad..

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    ^What he said. Thanks nick :D

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  • Hobbes
    replied
    Originally posted by NigelStu
    Hum... I might have the same issue. Got the aux fan installed and wired in over the weekend, but it doesn't turn on.

    Running the same 3-pole 80/88 switch as Giant.


    If I unplug the switch and jumper the plug, both low speed and high speed fan speeds work. But nothing when plugged in. Let the car warm up so that needle was close to the tic-mark half-way between normal and the red zone.


    Whats the best / proper way to test that switch so I can make sure it is actaully bad (although, I can't imagine it isn't)? Is there any other reason why it might not be working? Radiator has been bled properly, so I don't think there would be any air trapped near the sensor, thus giving false signal...



    Also, with the temp switch plugged in, pressing the A/C(snowflake) button does NOT turn on the aux fan. Any ideas on that one?
    There is a diode underneath the fuse box under the hood. It keeps your a/c compressor from kicking on when your temp switch turns the fan on. It usually doesn't go bad, but if it does, your fan won't run when you click the a/c button. It is also quite easy to blow up. (ask me how I know...) You can disconnect it and bypass it to see if it has gone bad.

    That is a seperate issue from the fan not clicking on via the temp switch though. Is that side of the radiator hot when you are idling? My m42 radiator wouldnt trip the temp switch because it always had some amount of air, and it liked to settle up near where the temp switch is. If you think about it, it is probably the least turbulent part of the cooling system, and it also happens to be a perfect spot for air to collect. I noticed that changing to an aluminum radiator resulted in the temp switch reacting MUCH faster to change in temperature. Try jacking up the drivers side of the car (or park sideways on a really steep hill) and bleeding that way.

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  • RoadHazard
    replied
    In order to test a switch, I'd dip the sensor part of the switch in water and boil it. As water temperature rises, use a thermometer to monitor the water temp. Connect an ohmmeter to the switch. When the switch becomes close circuit, read out the temp on the thermometer. Verify if that is what you're expecting.

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  • 328ijunkie
    replied
    Thats weird that you guys are having these issues, only thing i can think is the pins are mixed up on the fan switch not completing the circuit like theyre supposed to.

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