Official Electric Fan wiring thread!

[Rajvosa]

this is what I copied. go to post #57 use stock wire harness/ resistor
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...=134232&page=4

Thanks!
So you are using same 16" fan? Do you get low and high fan speed?

[RoadHazard]

If you want to run 2 fan speeds, you need to transfer the resistor from the stock aux fan to your new fan. Or buy a new one, of course. Then, just wire your fan exactly the same as stock wiring.

[funcrew]

Q1. Will wiring per the OP in any way affect operation of the air conditioning?
Q2. Using a one-speed SPAL, will that affect the A/C?

I live in Las Vegas, so a low setting does not seem that useful.

[raudonis]

For those like me who can't find 82º temperature switch 61311364272/82 - there is no such BMW part.

61311364272 is 91º (FAE 36010)
61311364273 is 99º (FAE 36020)

82º temperature switch sold by Pelican is FAE 36050.
OEM # is 3286641-0, it is a Volvo part.

[Rajvosa]

guys can i get a bit of a hand here please. im not very wiring minded so am trying to work the wiring for spal fan out. (probably simple for quite a few of you, not me lol) im hoping doing it the following way will give me a Low and High speed on the fan?

ok i will use the resistor off the E30 M3 so is this the correct way to wire it in. just solder it to the black wire from the Spal fan?


i have worked out this is the aux fan plug (under the headlight) but not sure how to wire the Spal fan to this... my Spal fan has 2 wires, a BLUE and BLACK one.


I also have the two prong aux switch 328ijunkie mentioned in first post. How do i wire up the original 3 prong plug (what colour goes where?) to the new switch?

once again thanks heaps for any advice!

[RoadHazard]

You need a 3-prong switch for the E36 M3 radiator. (A 2-prong switch will only allow you to run 1 fan speed.) Use a 80/88 deg switch from a 4-pot E36 and yes this is a BMW part. I know because I'm using it in my car but I don't have the exact part number in my hand right now.

First, replace the new fan switch on the radiator and connect it to the stock fan switch plug located near the RH headlight. That's all you have to do for the fan switch part.

Now on to the fan part. I'll reword the OP's instructions here. You want to reuse the wires that are/were attached to the stock aux fan. Remove them off the fan as a complete loom. Wires in this loom are colored red, black, brown and have a plug and a resistor connected to some of them. It is recommended to use the loom as is with the resistor still attached unless it's broken. First, hook the blue wire on the SPAL to the red wire on the loom (where you cut off the aux fan) . And hook the black on the SPAL to the brown wire on the loom. That's it. Connect the plug on the loom to the plug under the LH headlight and you're done.

Hope this makes sense.

[Rajvosa]

Makes perfect sense! thanks so much!!

You need a 3-prong switch for the E36 M3 radiator. (A 2-prong switch will only allow you to run 1 fan speed.) Use a 80/88 deg switch from a 4-pot E36 and yes this is a BMW part. I know because I'm using it in my car but I don't have the exact part number in my hand right now.

First, replace the new fan switch on the radiator and connect it to the stock fan switch plug located near the RH headlight. That's all you have to do for the fan switch part.

Now on to the fan part. I'll reword the OP's instructions here. You want to reuse the wires that are/were attached to the stock aux fan. Remove them off the fan as a complete loom. Wires in this loom are colored red, black, brown and have a plug and a resistor connected to some of them. It is recommended to use the loom as is with the resistor still attached unless it's broken. First, hook the blue wire on the SPAL to the red wire on the loom (where you cut off the aux fan) . And hook the black on the SPAL to the brown wire on the loom. That's it. Connect the plug on the loom to the plug under the LH headlight and you're done.

Hope this makes sense.

[JFarhanbod]

So I can wire the black and brown to the green/black and itll fire high speed (which is what i want) I want the fan to be manual though with the snowflake button, not it to turn on automatically with the switch. Does that wiring seem right still?

cliff notes

red--> positive on fan
green/black spliced to black and brown wires --> negative on fan

[TimKninja]

So I can wire the black and brown to the green/black and itll fire high speed (which is what i want) I want the fan to be manual though with the snowflake button, not it to turn on automatically with the switch. Does that wiring seem right still?

cliff notes

red--> positive on fan
green/black spliced to black and brown wires --> negative on fan

Why would you want to do that??

I followed everything in the original post , and my fan works excellent , it comes on right at half and almost comes down to 2/3rds with my dinky 13 inch fan from IE. granted I'm using a cooler thermostat then I probably should be.

[JFarhanbod]

I would rather be able to control it myself, it's a gutted track car with no ac if that matters at all

[fronton]

My present working high only auto setup:
16" spal puller with the fan's red connected to driver side's GN/BK and fan's black to car's brown while the car's third wire (Black) is left disconnected. I also have a new stock dual temp switch connected with original wiring. Presently the fan kicks on high speed automatically about at around 11oclock on the temp gauge. This is not ideal as high is too intense and quickly cools it down to further never letting it get to half mark and needlessly drawing full amps. So, I want to incorporate low speed with the oem resistor but am having trouble getting clear instructions for splicing it into play.

1. Is there a way to identify which side of the resistor is high and low or is one ground and the other power?
2. What exactly connects to each end of the resistor? Do I merge the GN/BK which seems to be high speed (works that way now) with the currently unused car's BK on one end and have just brown on the other end?
3. Once the resistor is wired correctly with the car, how do I then connect the Black and the Red fan wires to it?

I don't have the stock fan to see how it originally was wired or I would have less questions. Thanks

[36brua]

My present working high only auto setup:
16" spal puller with the fan's red connected to driver side's GN/BK and fan's black to car's brown while the car's third wire (Black) is left disconnected. I also have a new stock dual temp switch connected with original wiring. Presently the fan kicks on high speed automatically about at around 11oclock on the temp gauge. This is not ideal as high is too intense and quickly cools it down to further never letting it get to half mark and needlessly drawing full amps. So, I want to incorporate low speed with the oem resistor but am having trouble getting clear instructions for splicing it into play.

1. Is there a way to identify which side of the resistor is high and low or is one ground and the other power?
2. What exactly connects to each end of the resistor? Do I merge the GN/BK which seems to be high speed (works that way now) with the currently unused car's BK on one end and have just brown on the other end?
3. Once the resistor is wired correctly with the car, how do I then connect the Black and the Red fan wires to it?

I don't have the stock fan to see how it originally was wired or I would have less questions. Thanks

This ? see post 57 i wired mine this way works fine

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=134232&page=4

[RoadHazard]

fronton,

If you don't have stock aux fan at all then you need to wire up the fan loom yourself.

Prepare 3 wires. They need to be as thick as the ones on the SPAL. The functions of these wires are:
1. Low speed. This wire connects to BK/GN on chassis loom.
2. High speed. This wire connects to BK/BU on chassis loom.
3. Ground. This wire connects to BR on chassis loom.

Connect wire 1 to one of the resistor's pins. It doesn't matter which side. Both are the same.
Connect wire 2 to the other side of resistor.
Connect wire 3 to the SPAL's black.
And lastly, splice the red wire from the SPAL into wire 2.

In the following diagram, the dashed lines are the three wires mentioned above. See if this makes sense.

[fronton]

fronton,

If you don't have stock aux fan at all then you need to wire up the fan loom yourself.

Prepare 3 wires. They need to be as thick as the ones on the SPAL. The functions of these wires are:
1. Low speed. This wire connects to BK/GN on chassis loom.
2. High speed. This wire connects to BK/BU on chassis loom.
3. Ground. This wire connects to BR on chassis loom.

Connect wire 1 to one of the resistor's pins. It doesn't matter which side. Both are the same.
Connect wire 2 to the other side of resistor.
Connect wire 3 to the SPAL's black.
And lastly, splice the red wire from the SPAL into wire 2.

In the following diagram, the dashed lines are the three wires mentioned above. See if this makes sense.

This is exactly what I was hoping for. Thank you kind sir, I appreciate it.

[Spitfi-r]

So I have my Spal fan wired and working per the instructions in the first post as a single-high speed only triggered via the radiator mounted single pole switch.

My engine stumbles and the rpm's drop for a second when the fan turns on even with my idle set at 1000rpm---is that normal?

No AC in the car.