S50 swap- No Crank

[jeffmn8]

Hey everyone. So this last weekend I swapped in an s50 into my 318is. A little background- s50 was out of a friends car that had a warped head (he put in a s50b32.) I pulled the head, replaced all the gaskets and headstuds, rod bearings/bolts, blah blah. Also swapped in a zf trans, euro clutch/flywheel, e30 m3 driveshaft, 2.93 lsd, 3.5" maf, silver label 413 with a turner chip. I also converted the engine harness to a c101 connector.

So, we got the motor out friday night, and got everything else in Saturday and Sunday morning. I turned the car on to start up before we put the coolant and radiator in and there was nothing. Turns out we forgot the main ground on the motor We stuck the ground on and tried again. Still nothing, so I clipped the ews wire (green #66). This time, there was a click, but the starter didn't do anything. All interior stuff works except the windows won't move up or down

And that's pretty much where it ended. I had to head out of town for the week for work, so I'm trying to gather ideas for when I get back.

Sorry for the long post, trying to include as much info as possible.

Cliffs: Swapped in s50, won't crank, windows don't work.

Thanks!

[EduardoGomez]

try to start the engine by directly jumping the starter and see if it will spin the engine.

[Adrian_Visser]

Clipping the EWS wire won't fool it into starting is the turner chip delete EWS from the DME?

This is beside the point since it would still turn over regardless. As for the cranking check the simple stuff first, are you sure your battery isn't just dead or you that you don't have a bad connection at the battery terminals?

Then verify the connections at the + junction point in the engine bay.

This thread is what you need for that:

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=147952

[jeffmn8]

Thanks, I'll take a look at the other thread. I'm not sure if the chip has an ews delete. I know the battery is good because I drove the car an hour and a half on Friday. Might try and have my buddy jump the starter and see what happens.

[nrubenstein]

No crank has nothing to do with EWS. It'll crank with no ECU at all.

[giantkeeper]

Check and verify that the small wire that runs to the starter, and the small wire running to the alternator are not reversed. If you dont actually check its an easy mistake to make. This will keep the car from cranking, as your keyed power would be going to the wrong place.

[jeffmn8]

No crank has nothing to do with EWS. It'll crank with no ECU at all.

Yes I realize this.

Check and verify that the small wire that runs to the starter, and the small wire running to the alternator are not reversed. If you dont actually check its an easy mistake to make. This will keep the car from cranking, as your keyed power would be going to the wrong place.

From what I remember we bolted it into the top stud on the starter as it was the only one it would fit.

[Matt-B]

all 12v wires hooked up and grounded from block to body?

[jeffmn8]

all 12v wires hooked up and grounded from block to body?

The one smaller 12v line going towards the fuse box is taped off... I read that it is not needed, is that wrong? The larger of the two going towards the fusebox goes to the starter.




So as far as EWS is concerned I can't just do this-

http://www.e36-tech.com/forum/diy-ews-disabling-for-the-413-silver-label-dme-2832.html

[giantkeeper]

From what I remember we bolted it into the top stud on the starter as it was the only one it would fit.

I said the same thing, but check anyhow. Your smallest is the ground, you should check the middle size which is keyed power...or what allows you to crank the starter.

[jeffmn8]

We got the car working.. turns out the starter solenoid was stuck, I tapped it with a wrench and it turned over no problem. I also ended up getting a red label dme from a junkyard and the car started and ran fine.

Now I just need to get the exhaust done, get a Spal fan, and get an aftermarket coolant temp gauge because the stock e30 sender isn't working..