No fuel

[brokenbimmer533]

case needs to be grounded. throw a grounding cable together real quick and try it. one end on the ecu, one end on the stock ecu mounts. or have a friend hold the case on the car body inside the dash (might have to take out some interior panels first) while you try to start it.

[cmybimmer]

Hmm and that could be a reason for the fuel pump not getting power? I'll have to check that next then, I'd feel like an idiot if its just that :/

[jrdeamicis]

"pretty sure" means not sure.

You did not check it with a digital multi meter or even a check light. If you go back to this with a meter or check light you can verify the power path to the relay that is not working. if the power is there, then there is a ground issue or IGN+ trigger issue.



IF having problems, go back to square one sir :)

check that wiring connecting WITH a multimeter:

1. check for continuity - i.e. wires are what u think they are and go where u think they go

so:

find the plug that goes to the fuel pump, check what color wires are there (reference the TIS wiring diagram, if you don't have it DL it now!!!)
check for continuity between the wire there and the wiring in the adapter you think it is (that you connected to).

trace the power path and see if there is 12V + @ ecu, at all injectors, at all 6 coil packs. see if its consistant....

see if the ECU is triggering the fuel pump relay to send power to the fuel pump. if you reference the TIS diagram, the path will be shown :)

2. check for proper polarity - often people mix up grounds and power and signals......bad

you cannot play "swap parts game" and expect it to solve a lack of power issue. the power is simply not going where it should be, or the grounding is not there to connect the loop.

electricity is a complete loop, one side or other out ....no dice :)

Listen to this man.

[brokenbimmer533]

Hmm and that could be a reason for the fuel pump not getting power? I'll have to check that next then, I'd feel like an idiot if its just that :/

It was the reason my fuel pump wasnt kicking on. Your ecu just layin in the glove box?

On mine I wasnt getting any fuel while cranking. So i jumped the relay and fuel pump kicked on like it should. So figured it was the relay. I tried it in a friends 24v e30 and it started right up, not the relay. He came over one day to borrow some tools and he noticed the ecu just chillin in the glove box. Grounded the case and presto, started right up.

If it is the grounding wire, dont feel like an idiot. Be thankful its something easy and cheap. lol

[cmybimmer]

Wow, well I'll have to go check on that asap. Haven't had time to work on the car all weekend, but thatll be the first thing I'd try. As of now, the ecu is just chillin where the heater core used to be (I deleted my whole heater core). That would make a lot of sense being that it is not getting any ground. We shall see! Thanks for the tip, and potential problem lol

[cmybimmer]

Ok well a little update, worked on the car a little today. First I replaced the cam position sensor since the PO wired it hella ghetto. Tried that and no fuel/start. Then took the above advice to ground the ecu, still no fuel/start. Got fed up with all this cat mouse shit, so wanted to see if the damn pump worked at least. Put a 6v battery to it and it worked fine, and fuel got up to the lines. Thought to at least start the motor this way to see if it would run andd no start still :(. Had my doubts about my crank sensor so I replaced it with a spare I had and still no damn start. Shits really getting on my last nerve.

Something to note, to at least have the motor somewhat ignite, I assisted the fuel with starter fluid and it coughed for a second then died. Then aftwerwards it started cranking abnormally. After I swapped crank sensors it cranked normally again. I'm clueless as to why it won't start. Sighhh

[I*Do*Werke]

I have the same exact problem. Hopefully we can get this worked out

[cmybimmer]

Well, did some testing to the wires throughout the harness and none of the wires are getting power. The ecu connector is getting power to the black wires, but nothing else. I tried three different ecu's to make sure its not my ecu and the problem persists. Me and my buddies narrowed it down to something wrong between the ecu and the x20 connector (or whatever the end of the e36 harness is called). Took it out and going to try to replace it with another harness. I hope that solves the problem.

Oh, anddd for some reason as long as my battery is connected, my car is as if its running. Even with the key out all my cluster lights are on (but not the CEL), the check control lights are on, i can turn on my headlights, and those black ecu wires are getting power... all with the keys out. Why is it getting constant power?



I hate electrical work.

[Lord Poseidon]

Ok. Your fuel pump is powered when the key is on. This power comes from the main relay. So make a couple little jumpers. You can always bypass any relay by jumping pin 30 to pin 87. The main relay is a 5 pin relay and you will need to jump pin 30 to pins 87 and 87a.

When you jump these pins on the main relay, then jump pin 30 to 87 on the fuel pump and if you hear it kick on, it works.

That will at least let you know if you have a problem with wiring or a relay issue for the most part.

[cmybimmer]

Jumped both the relays and still nothing. I'm lovin it =/.

I ended up buying a whole "new" wiring harness from the junkyard since I was kinda skeptical about my other one (PO had cut a bunch of shit from it, so what the hell). That got me as far as turning on my CEL for once. I've basically replaced all wires between the ecu up to the wiring harness adapter. I haven't a damn clue as to why the hell its not running now. Earlier today I powered the fuel pump w a 6v batt and after a few cranks the motor ran for about 3-4 seconds, but only sputtering, then died.

Also, with the key in the ON position only about 2-3 pins on each side of the adapter/harnesses get power. I forget which right now, but shouldn't a lot more be getting power?

[jrdeamicis]

You need to verify your pin outs and measurements of these sensors.

Crank (its a VR measure for Mv while cranking) - Back probe the X6000 Connector
Cam is a hall sensor, make sure you have a 12V or 5V send on the + side of the connector. The other will be ground, and the third will be output.
Make sure you have your fuel lines the right direction

Have you checked your fuel pump relay body side yet?

[cmybimmer]

You need to verify your pin outs and measurements of these sensors.

Crank (its a VR measure for Mv while cranking) - Back probe the X6000 Connector
Cam is a hall sensor, make sure you have a 12V or 5V send on the + side of the connector. The other will be ground, and the third will be output.
Make sure you have your fuel lines the right direction

Have you checked your fuel pump relay body side yet?

I have not checked with this new wiring harness, but my prior harness wasn't getting any power to the crank sensor while cranking. I used a circuit tester for that. Majority of the wires weren't getting power.

I'm sure my lines are in the right direction, I've double and triple checked lol

And body side fuel pump relay? Is it in the cabin or something? I only checked the relay that was on the actual wiring harness.

[jrdeamicis]

The crank sensor does not use power, it generates an AC waveform. Look for mV while cranking. It will verify you are getting crank signal. And do it by back probing the X6000 connector.

[cmybimmer]

I'll try that when I get to work on the car in a bit! Thanks

[cmybimmer]

She runs!!! kinda. SUCH a big relief to hear the thing run! I had my doubts about my ecu gettting proper ground so I took off one of the torx bolts and wrapped a wire around it, then bolted it back in. I connected the other end to the strut tower ground mounting point. Cranked first time, and my buddy said he finally heard the fuel pump prime. Cranked second time and the motor fired!!

Ok now, it def is not drive worthy right now. The idle was wayyy unstable and eventually dies (after about 30 seconds). Something to note, when i first threw in the e34 throttle cable in stock setting, the throttle butterfly was half open. I basically had to adjust the cable to the longest setting to get the butterfly to close.

The first time the motor started, I was a little overwhelmed from how loud the straight headers were, thinking the motor was revving real high (on a cold motor) so I turned the key off and even took it out, but the motor was still running!! Wtf lol. Ended up going to the back and disconnected the battery.

Any idea as to the sloppy idle and why my motor didnt shut off after taking out the key?


In the end, was a good day indeed :D. And thanks for everyone's help thus far, and your patience.