How are you wiring in your ABS...late model.

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  • crobertsbmw
    replied
    I have an early model '88 325, it has the relay. I didn't play with it or anything but the abs doesn't seem to be getting power, we discovered it because we couldn't get the brakes to bleed. The fuse in the abs relay is broken. Could I have shorted something to it somehow while doing the swap? Has anyone had a similar problem?

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  • duckBoy
    replied
    Originally posted by duckBoy
    Its a 91 w/airbag. The motor is a s50

    For anyone in the future that doesnt have a clue where to begin if you're walking into this,

    I took off the ABS cover to verify that the wire was red/yellow. I noticed it wasnt wired to anything at the top of the harness. I opened up my pacman plug to tap into a 12v source (multimeter off 0v, 2 key turn 12v) pin. I traced the wire that did this and noticed my it was green/white. It was already wired to green/purple in my swap. I just soldered all 3 together to give it power.

    All is well. Sorry I dont know the pin numbers. Things get confusing when different guides have different colors.

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  • SkorcherX
    replied
    Thanks for the input guys!

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    DO NOT connect pin 6 to 20 on an early model car. The ABS is not powered through the C101, and will function without you intervening.

    I am fairly certain pin 20 is a ground in early cars, and will result in a wire fire if you hook it up.
    yes. it is only for late cars.

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  • FredK
    replied
    DO NOT connect pin 6 to 20 on an early model car. The ABS is not powered through the C101, and will function without you intervening.

    I am fairly certain pin 20 is a ground in early cars, and will result in a wire fire if you hook it up.

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  • SkorcherX
    replied
    Does anything need to be done differently for a early model car? I have an 87, with a build date of 11/86. So I would assume I have the ABS relay. Can I still get away with jumping switched 12v from pin 6 to pin 20? (no airbag).

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  • duckBoy
    replied
    Ill look at it tomorrow and report back.

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  • nrubenstein
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    Good to know.

    This is a fairly important thing to do correctly, because the last thing you want to do is to apply power unnecessarily to the wrong pin. So please, be very careful with this procedure if you don't know what you're doing.
    Yeah. Basically, you just need to look and see what ABS brain you have. If it has a red label, it's airbag style.

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  • FredK
    replied
    Cool. You should be fine. Check pin 20 on your donor engine harness to make sure it's a red/yellow wire, if it is, 6 to 20 is the correct pairing.

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  • duckBoy
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    For a 24v swap, these pins are in the C101, the round connector by the fusebox.

    Just to confirm, this is only for a 24v swap, airbag car.
    Its a 91 w/airbag. The motor is a s50

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  • FredK
    replied
    Good to know.

    This is a fairly important thing to do correctly, because the last thing you want to do is to apply power unnecessarily to the wrong pin. So please, be very careful with this procedure if you don't know what you're doing.

    Leave a comment:


  • nrubenstein
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    For a 24v swap, these pins are in the C101, the round connector by the fusebox.

    Just to confirm, this is only for a 24v swap, airbag car.
    And lots of '89s. I speculate that the cutoff is 1/89 as my 2/89 car has no relay, while my 9/88 M3 and Mike's (IIRC) 10/88 SpecE30 have one.

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  • FredK
    replied
    For a 24v swap, these pins are in the C101, the round connector by the fusebox.

    Just to confirm, this is only for a 24v swap, airbag car.

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  • duckBoy
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    Late cars dont have a relay.. If yours had a relay, it wouldnt have a pin 20 and the c101 wouldnt affect abs anyway.

    Skip the hacks. 6 to 20. Done.
    Sorry to relive, but could someone tell me where these pins are?
    By the fuses or in the glovebox?

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  • N2MYE30
    replied
    Originally posted by nrubenstein
    You can also pull power from the monster splice of red/white wires in the main harness. That's how I have mine done. (note: if you pull it from the all red splice, ABS will be unswitched and will drain your battery every 24 hours or so.)
    This is how I wound up doing it last night . I just spliced into a red/white wire and connected it to the black/violet wire on the X20 (not used for the swap) and connected that to pin 20 (red/yellow iirc) from the C101. No extra wires and clean install.

    Another item check off the "still need to do after swap" list. :up:

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