Spal electric fan?

[twism]

Alright guys I don't know exactly where I should post this so I put it here so more people can see it and give their opinions.

My car has a m52 swap and I'm running the original clutch fan. I would like to go electric and have been wondering lately, pusher or puller fan? I know it will most probably be 16", but is Spal my only option? The ones that I've been looking at are around 170-180$, which seems like a lot of money to me. Are there any other good choices that I have, or Spal is the only way to go? Also my car currently does not have AC, but hopefully will sometime this year. I'm guessing I will have to run puller fan, but please if anyone can give me some info don't hesitate to share it!

Thanks!

[VinniE30]

For what it's worth, I have a spal fan (pusher) with my m30 swap which is harder to keep cool than one of the 24v engines.
It has no clutch puller fan, just the spal pusher, and it has working AC too. It does a great job at cooling the m30. The temp is always between 1/4 and 1/2 when warmed up, and has never overheated. The one I have is a variable speed fan wired to the ECU so it increases speed appropriately with increased coolant temps.

[Madhatter]

puller + shroud is the most efficient way, but it's a case of what fits.

[lolcantturn]

I run an Ireland Engineering 14" Electric Fan to an M42 radiator, pusher. Cools perfectly fine. Let it idle for 45mins once and it never came close to the halfway mark.. it's also a $30 fan that I've used on both my first and second swap cars with no problems

[VinniE30]

puller + shroud is the most efficient way, but it's a case of what fits.

Right, a puller is more efficient than a pusher, but it's interesting to note that most people running only one fan have a pusher fan. I don't see many people only running a puller. A pusher is proven to very capable of cooling the engine and reliable at it.

[lolcantturn]

Even with an advertised "reversible" fan, my E30 will straight up overheat with no resistance on puller mode.

[drumad]

I have a spal pusher as well in front of my ac condenser.

I copied bimmerteck's set up exactly.

[bimmerteck]

I used a SPAL 30101517 which is great for all but all but the most serious forced induction and track builds.(for those I recommend the 30102048 ) The 1517 can also usually be found for around $100 shipped. (check amazon)

adding a SPAL in place of the stock aux fan

[drumad]

^yeah, this is exactly what I did

[cormier]

You'll have a hard time fitting a puller, as already said

Get a spal pusher, spend the money it won't let you down. I've also heard good things about another budget company but the name escapes me... Cooling solutions or something? I'll report back if it comes to me

[Adrian_Visser]

Flexilite is another brand readily available, you need at least 2000cfm to do the job. I'm guessing the reason you want to ditch the clutch fan is because of a lack of space behind the rad?

Honestly if you can keep the clutch fan do it, it moves way moves way more air than any electric fan you could fit in front of the rad ever could providing the viscous clutch is in good condition.

And Lolcanturn what thermostat are you running? Your temp needle should sit at the half way mark or very close to it or your engine will stay in warmup mode all the time.

[lolcantturn]

Lolcanturn what thermostat are you running? Your temp needle should sit at the half way mark or very close to it or your engine will stay in warmup mode all the time.

80*C thermostat. It's slightly below halfway between the quarter and halfway mark. Is that too cool?

[bimmerteck]

Flexilite is another brand readily available, you need at least 2000cfm to do the job. I'm guessing the reason you want to ditch the clutch fan is because of a lack of space behind the rad?

Honestly if you can keep the clutch fan do it, it moves way moves way more air than any electric fan you could fit in front of the rad ever could providing the viscous clutch is in good condition.

And Lolcanturn what thermostat are you running? Your temp needle should sit at the half way mark or very close to it or your engine will stay in warmup mode all the time.

The 2000 CFM is a great fan but generally overkill for most swaps, I've got a half dozen running 1600 CFM pusher fans around here with only one requiring a larger fan due to a blower being added to the equation. Now if you have money/space to burn then the by all means get the HD fan I recommended for tracked/blown motors above, it is a great fan and is slightly quieter at low speed(during AC use ect.) but if you don't need it the extra CFM the cost of the extra inch of depth and the near doubling of amperage required to run it are drawbacks of the 2000 CFM fan that need to be considered.


2000 CFM pusher (SPAL PN 30102048 )
Depth 87.6mm (3.45 inches)
Amps required when mounted at full tilt <23A (tested and confirmed)

1600 CFM pusher (SPAL PN 30101517 )
Depth 62.1mm (2.44 inches)
Amps required when mounted at full tilt <12A (tested and confirmed)

These two models I recommend use the same cage only the motor and blades are changed out to up the CFM. (makes for and easy upgrade should you ever decide differently)

[Lithium]

Lots of good advise here

While we are on the topic of fans. I have a question (I hope this is not a hijack) I am doing an M50 swap and an AC delete - Can the AC (stock) fan be used if remounted to the rad with an 82 deg switch?
The one on my car works & blows strong.
Just wondering if anyone has gone that route.
Thanks.

[twism]

Alright looks like it will be a pusher fan. I do have enough room to run my clutch fan, its just the couple extra hp that I would like to squeeze making me remove it and put electric one.

I've also heard that curved blades are quieter than straight, is this correct?

I've been thinking about getting this one:

http://www.spalusa.com/store/main.aspx?p=itemdetail&item=30102048

but recently I found that one:

http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/size-push-part-2048-p-220.html?cPath=33

to me it looks the same but cheaper, what do you guys think?