Breaking axles

[jrdeamicis]

If you are using an E36 driveshaft you have a ujoint behind the CSB. So it should be able to accommodate its new change.

[nando]

There should be no change - you want the driveshaft alignment to be straight, and the diff in the same position.

I have no idea why they suggest the offset bushing - it's not the "right" way to do it. Let's just say, your driveshaft rubs and your pinion is at an angle, mine doesn't rub and everything is straight..

[Holland]

There should be no change - you want the driveshaft alignment to be straight, and the diff in the same position.

I have no idea why they suggest the offset bushing - it's not the "right" way to do it. Let's just say, your driveshaft rubs and your pinion is at an angle, mine doesn't rub and everything is straight..

This is pretty much why I went back to stock subframe height and went with adjustable camber and toe kit.

[IrocE30]

If you are using an E36 driveshaft you have a ujoint behind the CSB. So it should be able to accommodate its new change.

I am using a an e36 driveshaft, spaced the diff down 3mm and it just barely clears, still using the offset bushing. Thats how its gonna stay till i find that it causes other problems.

[nando]

This is pretty much why I went back to stock subframe height and went with adjustable camber and toe kit.

It's really not a big deal.. You need about a half inch longer bolts and washers, that's it. I had a weld in kit, but the shorter bushings brought me back to specs, it wasn't worth the effort to me so i sold the weld in kit.

[nando]

I am using a an e36 driveshaft, spaced the diff down 3mm and it just barely clears, still using the offset bushing. Thats how its gonna stay till i find that it causes other problems.

Your pinion is still at an angle to the driveshaft, which can cause premature pinion bearing wear.

[IrocE30]

I gonna look into i, since i did do a motor swap the driveshaft angles could all be screwed up depending on what motor mounts, tranny mounts i used. Im gonna use an angle finder and get the get them all level and space acoordingly.

[nrubenstein]

This is pretty much why I went back to stock subframe height and went with adjustable camber and toe kit.

Of course, what you lost is the improved roll center geometry that you can only get by shifting the subframe up.

[Holland]

Of course, what you lost is the improved roll center geometry that you can only get by shifting the subframe up.

I think 9mm to 12mm would hardly be noticeable, especially considering it's a small section compared to an entire car. I'm more concerned with driveline angles at that point.

[Adrian_Visser]

Who is running raised subframe bushings+weld on camber and toe adjusters?

I am about to install both, I have heard that it gets pretty tight between the adjusters and the body of the car when the subframe is raised. I hope I don't have to cut off any of the adjuster.

[Holland]

Who is running raised subframe bushings+weld on camber and toe adjusters?

I am about to install both, I have heard that it gets pretty tight between the adjusters and the body of the car when the subframe is raised. I hope I don't have to cut off any of the adjuster.

Idk about eccentrics, but the IE posi-lock kit will touch with stock height.

[surebimmer]

When i raised the subframe on my e30 m3 the driveshaft rubbed the gas tank as well. This is what i did.

I got (4) 40mm M12 x 1.5thread pitch bolts from McMaster.com. Then I found 1/2 inch bearing sleeves at my local ACE hardware store.

They work prefect to space the diff down, 1/2 a inch is 12.7mm.



I bought (4) 40mm M12 x 1.5 tread pitch bolts from McMaster.com



Then installed them and now my drive shaft will spin freely.

[Adrian_Visser]

Idk about eccentrics, but the IE posi-lock kit will touch with stock height.

That's what I bought should be interesting fitting them.

[Holland]

That's what I bought should be interesting fitting them.

I'm at stock height and the camber adjusters are touching the floor pan.