Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis

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  • brads2002
    replied
    Thanks for confirming. Getting the drill out.

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  • jotam3
    replied
    Originally posted by brads2002
    So I have my clevis ready but before i start drilling.....

    is the half inch over a half inch from the center of the existing holes?

    Thanks
    Yes, a half inch toward the driver's side.

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  • brads2002
    replied
    So I have my clevis ready but before i start drilling.....

    is the half inch over a half inch from the center of the existing holes?

    Thanks

    Leave a comment:


  • ZekeTheSneak
    replied
    Originally posted by ridingsupreme
    not clevis related but just thought id share how tight the quarters are here for the internets in case any new comers are curious need help visualizing the struggle. I know I would have appreciated such.

    If only ITB's were reasonable to obtain... I moved the booster over .6" had to bend nearly all the hardlines to coax them into place and remove some insulation in the transmission tunnel to get the motor and tranny in. also the last two fins need more than just cutting off.
    Im gonna have to push the limits of the wall a bit using a dremel or even seek out a plastic welder to adjust the manifold for more clearance. I wonder if the M50 manifold clears better. Though downgrading to obd 1 sounds ludicrous imho.


    You running m54 or something? The m50 manifold is an improvement over the obd2 manifold for m/s52.

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  • ridingsupreme
    replied
    not clevis related but just thought id share how tight the quarters are here for the internets in case any new comers are curious need help visualizing the struggle. I know I would have appreciated such.

    If only ITB's were reasonable to obtain... I moved the booster over .6" had to bend nearly all the hardlines to coax them into place and remove some insulation in the transmission tunnel to get the motor and tranny in. also the last two fins need more than just cutting off.
    Im gonna have to push the limits of the wall a bit using a dremel or even seek out a plastic welder to adjust the manifold for more clearance. I wonder if the M50 manifold clears better. Though downgrading to obd 1 sounds ludicrous imho.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ridingsupreme
    replied
    overthinking gets the best of me often... decided to use my skills elsewhere and got the clevis from ecs. what i received is better than pictured. oem bag and tag woot. now to measure and deface it. anyone want the other half for the price of shipping?
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • wazzu70
    replied
    Why not make a new offset clevis out of billett. You can make it L shaped. The forces from pedal to booster are not that great, it will be fine and better than some half azz welded piece!

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  • ridingsupreme
    replied
    ok bending the pedal is obvious not gonna happen. and fabing a whole new peice is more labor than i have time for at the moment so I'm seeking a quicker option in the meantime.
    Attached Files

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  • ridingsupreme
    replied
    hold everything... has anyone tried bending the brake pedal tab over to compensate? or even cutting the old one off the brake pedal and welding a new one with matching angles? no clever clevis work or weird angles to worry about that way...

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  • ridingsupreme
    replied
    forgive my crude iphone drawing.. made the image in a quick minute. your right about the pedal having to pivot and it does create a problem. I'm even considering fabricating my own brake pedal or modifying the existing in some way but then...

    I feel like i'm over thinking it (I always do) trying to recreate the wheel lol. I'm sure someone else would have thought up such a solution if it was worth the effort... time will tell i guess lolz. :drink: I'll post the final results of my efforts of course, but one things for sure using a second clevis is certainly the easiest route. call my a clevifectionist?
    Attached Files

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  • mjweimer
    replied
    I like your idea of strengthening the part using the angle. What I am not sure of is the clearance needed for the pedal to fit into the clevis.

    I thought that the pedal "arm" needed to pass through the clevis in order for the pin to be inserted and clearance needed to allow rotation. You might be able to place a small piece of angle at the very back to triangulate somewhat but you would need to measure with the pedal in place.


    MJ

    Originally posted by ridingsupreme
    still trying to modify the clevis and fabricate a clevis solution... i want to make something like a triangle maybe that will distribute the forces evenly despite the angle.

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  • ridingsupreme
    replied
    still trying to modify the clevis and fabricate a clevis solution... i want to make something like a triangle maybe that will distribute the forces evenly despite the angle.
    Attached Files

    Leave a comment:


  • ridingsupreme
    replied
    ECS sells the clevis now for 25$ if your in a bind and cant find one. I plan to just use some scrap and welding it to the existing clevis. using the latest Revshift "OEM" stiffness 24V Motor mounts. I'll update with pics and progress thursday night.

    Leave a comment:


  • raj
    replied
    Originally posted by wazzu70
    Does moving the booster over 1/2" provide enough clearance to the intake manifold without there being spacers under the drivers engine mount?
    Yes, with E28 green mounts I didn't need spacers.

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  • wazzu70
    replied
    Does moving the booster over 1/2" provide enough clearance to the intake manifold without there being spacers under the drivers engine mount?

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