Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis
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So I have my clevis ready but before i start drilling.....
is the half inch over a half inch from the center of the existing holes?
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not clevis related but just thought id share how tight the quarters are here for the internets in case any new comers are curious need help visualizing the struggle. I know I would have appreciated such.
If only ITB's were reasonable to obtain... I moved the booster over .6" had to bend nearly all the hardlines to coax them into place and remove some insulation in the transmission tunnel to get the motor and tranny in. also the last two fins need more than just cutting off.
Im gonna have to push the limits of the wall a bit using a dremel or even seek out a plastic welder to adjust the manifold for more clearance. I wonder if the M50 manifold clears better. Though downgrading to obd 1 sounds ludicrous imho.
You running m54 or something? The m50 manifold is an improvement over the obd2 manifold for m/s52.Leave a comment:
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not clevis related but just thought id share how tight the quarters are here for the internets in case any new comers are curious need help visualizing the struggle. I know I would have appreciated such.
If only ITB's were reasonable to obtain... I moved the booster over .6" had to bend nearly all the hardlines to coax them into place and remove some insulation in the transmission tunnel to get the motor and tranny in. also the last two fins need more than just cutting off.
Im gonna have to push the limits of the wall a bit using a dremel or even seek out a plastic welder to adjust the manifold for more clearance. I wonder if the M50 manifold clears better. Though downgrading to obd 1 sounds ludicrous imho.Leave a comment:
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Why not make a new offset clevis out of billett. You can make it L shaped. The forces from pedal to booster are not that great, it will be fine and better than some half azz welded piece!Leave a comment:
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hold everything... has anyone tried bending the brake pedal tab over to compensate? or even cutting the old one off the brake pedal and welding a new one with matching angles? no clever clevis work or weird angles to worry about that way...Leave a comment:
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forgive my crude iphone drawing.. made the image in a quick minute. your right about the pedal having to pivot and it does create a problem. I'm even considering fabricating my own brake pedal or modifying the existing in some way but then...
I feel like i'm over thinking it (I always do) trying to recreate the wheel lol. I'm sure someone else would have thought up such a solution if it was worth the effort... time will tell i guess lolz. :drink:
I'll post the final results of my efforts of course, but one things for sure using a second clevis is certainly the easiest route. call my a clevifectionist?
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I like your idea of strengthening the part using the angle. What I am not sure of is the clearance needed for the pedal to fit into the clevis.
I thought that the pedal "arm" needed to pass through the clevis in order for the pin to be inserted and clearance needed to allow rotation. You might be able to place a small piece of angle at the very back to triangulate somewhat but you would need to measure with the pedal in place.
MJ
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ECS sells the clevis now for 25$ if your in a bind and cant find one. I plan to just use some scrap and welding it to the existing clevis. using the latest Revshift "OEM" stiffness 24V Motor mounts. I'll update with pics and progress thursday night.Leave a comment:
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Does moving the booster over 1/2" provide enough clearance to the intake manifold without there being spacers under the drivers engine mount?Leave a comment:

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