Use the Stock Booster - Modify the Clevis

[EThirty318i]

I did this to my car, now the brake pedal itself will not touch the brake light switch.... did I threat the clevis on too far??

[amcink]

Great mod!I will use this instead of getting an e32

[Link]

Anyone have an extra brake clevis they did not need? I will buy and pay shipping, PM me.

[nokincy]

I can weld you up one real quick :dunno :P

You should start selling them. PM me if you're serious.

[328ijunkie]

I can weld you up one real quick :dunno :P

[nokincy]

Does anyone sell the modified clevis? I don't have the time or access to a welder to get one.

[328ijunkie]

E34 V8 one works perfect..

[bimmer630]

Yeah... that check valve from the m20 has three ports ..I guess I should just cap the smaller one?

[328ijunkie]

^If you want the brake booster to work if you stall then yes.

[bimmer630]

Can People who did this mod post up pics of their booster to intake clearance? and What direction the offset of their motor mounts face?

Also I just realized my stock M20 setup had a check valve in the booster vacuum hose. I just ran a hose straight to the intake with the swap. Should their be a check valve in there?

[Mr.SWISS]

Yay! Multi-quote time!

I also love Ice Cube, but I am hoping that we can play a little "It was a good day" instead of "Check yourself."

"...Even saw that lights of the Good Year blimp, and it read this clevis is PIMP."



My weld looks Jank-ass. I agree. It's not. It has full penetration - I have enough welding experience to know. And as you know, with the right filler material, the weld has more strength that the surrounding material.

My IQ is just fine, thanks. I won't rise to the bait on that one. :)

The "body" of the car that I drilled (not slotted) is the firewall. I'd LIKE to think my legs are strong enough to deform that part of the car, but even with another... say, 50 holes in it, it's gonna be strong enough to do its job.

I agree that the piece is cast (it's actually machined from what appears to be a forged piece) for a reason - but we don't know what that reason is. Cost? Strength? Time to manufacture? Likely a combination.



Nope. I have an ix master right here. Bought it. Took the clevis off and used it for the stock booster. Didn't want to hassle with bending the hard lines to get to the master, when it was pushed out closer to the front of the car with the thicker booster. And I didn't want to hassle with the interference between the intake elbow and the master. So I already ponied up the frank, I just liked this solution better.



It reads a lot like a flame.

...And after thousands of miles, hours on the track, and a couple of autocrosses, I promise this is safe enough to drive near your family. I take braking VERY seriously, and I take my responsibility as a driver just as seriously. I am glad you do as well. I know many people likely do not. That's one of many places where we agree, actually.

I wouldn't have recommended this if I didn't feel it were 100 times better than drilling the pedal arm, using a smaller booster, going "full manual brakes" or any of the countless LESS-safe alternatives proposed on the boards.



Yes. Because it did.



"Cause haterz like you be bad for my health..." ;)

Really though, Swiss, I am usually a huge fan - your insights into the swap helped me tremendously throughout the project. I respect that you are trying to keep these cars as safe as possible, and agree the brakes are NOT an area to F around with in the name of saving a buck. Seriously - we agree fully there.

I am happy with this mod, and if you look at the design here - the "whole" clevis will still operate the booster rod even if the weld were to somehow fail completely. I am confident enough to drive this every day, with MY loved ones in the car, and around the loved ones of countless others. And I have done so safely.

YMMV, IMO, etc, etc.

Word.

I hope you realize you are not par for the booster slotting idjits. Call me a purist but I despise when techs slot bodies, whether it be for a "mod" or because your jank ass Saturn chassis flexed so bad this is the only way to get the alignment in spec.

There will always be an exception to the rule, pop ya colla, not your clutch pimpin.

I don;t hate, I regulate.
;)

[328ijunkie]

It works and is 'safe' if done properly (like the clevis mod). just not the 'best' way many argue. I prefer the dual diaphragm setup... :dunno

[bimmer630]

if you look at the design here - the "whole" clevis will still operate the booster rod even if the weld were to somehow fail completely. I am confident enough to drive this every day, with MY loved ones in the car, and around the loved ones of countless others. And I have done so safely.

YMMV, IMO, etc, etc.

Word.

This ^ Is why I thought this mod would be totally safe too

[hwy84]

I'm bad for your health, I come real stealth...

Yay! Multi-quote time!

I also love Ice Cube, but I am hoping that we can play a little "It was a good day" instead of "Check yourself."

"...Even saw that lights of the Good Year blimp, and it read this clevis is PIMP."

Jank ass welds
low iq enginerrz designing brakes
slotting the body of the car
welding pushrods and clevis's period, these things are cast as one piece for a reason.

My weld looks Jank-ass. I agree. It's not. It has full penetration - I have enough welding experience to know. And as you know, with the right filler material, the weld has more strength that the surrounding material.

My IQ is just fine, thanks. I won't rise to the bait on that one. :)

The "body" of the car that I drilled (not slotted) is the firewall. I'd LIKE to think my legs are strong enough to deform that part of the car, but even with another... say, 50 holes in it, it's gonna be strong enough to do its job.

I agree that the piece is cast (it's actually machined from what appears to be a forged piece) for a reason - but we don't know what that reason is. Cost? Strength? Time to manufacture? Likely a combination.

Plain and simple, stock booster means one thing, you didn't want to pony up the extra frank or two for a proper booster and master.

Nope. I have an ix master right here. Bought it. Took the clevis off and used it for the stock booster. Didn't want to hassle with bending the hard lines to get to the master, when it was pushed out closer to the front of the car with the thicker booster. And I didn't want to hassle with the interference between the intake elbow and the master. So I already ponied up the frank, I just liked this solution better.

This is not a flame, but a PSA to keep you deathtrap hella far from my family and loved ones.

It reads a lot like a flame.

...And after thousands of miles, hours on the track, and a couple of autocrosses, I promise this is safe enough to drive near your family. I take braking VERY seriously, and I take my responsibility as a driver just as seriously. I am glad you do as well. I know many people likely do not. That's one of many places where we agree, actually.

I wouldn't have recommended this if I didn't feel it were 100 times better than drilling the pedal arm, using a smaller booster, going "full manual brakes" or any of the countless LESS-safe alternatives proposed on the boards.

Then again, you really think these will pass state inspection when the tech sees all this rigged bullshit?!?!

Yes. Because it did.

Ya better check yo self before you riggity wreck yo self.

"Cause haterz like you be bad for my health..." ;)

Really though, Swiss, I am usually a huge fan - your insights into the swap helped me tremendously throughout the project. I respect that you are trying to keep these cars as safe as possible, and agree the brakes are NOT an area to F around with in the name of saving a buck. Seriously - we agree fully there.

I am happy with this mod, and if you look at the design here - the "whole" clevis will still operate the booster rod even if the weld were to somehow fail completely. I am confident enough to drive this every day, with MY loved ones in the car, and around the loved ones of countless others. And I have done so safely.

YMMV, IMO, etc, etc.

Word.

[Mr.SWISS]

Ok well your original comment made it sound like you were saying any E30 with higher HP should have an upgraded booster, hence my comparison to modded m20s.


I dunno man... I dont see any issue with everything being relocated. Nobody flames on the v8 swap guys when they install their boosters in front of the wheel well actuated by bellcranks and such.. I know its a BMW design, but if you say my brakes will fail then whos saying someone who welds an e34 booster linkage into their e30 wont have a failure

No I never implied HP and booster size.

I have an issue with:

Jank ass welds
low iq enginerrz designing brakes
slotting the body of the car
welding pushrods and clevis's period, these things are cast as one piece for a reason.

Plain and simple, stock booster means one thing, you didn't want to pony up the extra frank or two for a proper booster and master.

This is not a flame, but a PSA to keep you deathtrap hella far from my family and loved ones.

Then again, you really think these will pass state inspection when the tech sees all this rigged bullshit?!?!

Because if I was grading it, I would use a red sharpie and bump some cube while doin it.

Ya better check yo self before you riggity wreck yo self.