M/S50 obd2?

[Wanganstyle]

Hmm I did not know that.. That's interesting for sure. I know the euro m52 used it only on the front like the m50's. The cam sensor and trigger wheel are 130 bucks for both oem. Should be plug and play. I have to do more research haha nobody has interest in converting an engine to obd2 I guess as there's no info on it . I like challenges when I can over come them, this is a fun build tho as its more a hobby build, don't need the engine just wanted to do it for the fun of it as I get time and money it's gets closer kind of thing, thank you for all the input you've provided me, everything helps

Yes, I have one here sent from TRM with matching TRM turbo brain (mapped) for a turbocharged EU spec car - can post a photo of it. It's a standard BMW part and just fits/works. This is being used with TRM turned OBD2 brain on a EURO built block for boost; block had no provision for the USA style crank position sensor in the block.

euro spec 96-99 don't have the hole in the block or the 60-2 wheel bolted to the crankshaft - block casting looks just like an older OBD 1 USA 92-95 block.

So if you are (in the USA) and are buying a OBD2 car and want to make sure you have a legitimate OBD2 engine to your car just look for this: if you have a front crank sensor (in the USA) and your car is a OBD2 96-99 BMW; somebody swapped a older engine into the newer car (completely illegal for california and federal emissions). The sprocket and mounting provisions are already there on USA models; BMW used the front sensor on EU spec cars for 96-99.

[pussiwillow]

Awesome info guys, I know I dont have an e30 but I knew there would be more info here as you guys are always doing some cool things to your cars, bimmer forums is dead on this topic

I was almost certain us spec did not use 2 sensors for the crank, had me going tho haha. And yes I'm in the us, Arizona to be exact, so basically this thing will run just like the euro m52. Sounds great to me, i know these types of things are "illegal" but I need it to have the ability to pass emissions when or if I have to. This project is becoming a lot of fun now I'm gathering info. "obd2 m50b30 stroker" here I come.

I plan to run the ms41.1 would I better off trying to locate the euro m52 ms41.0 ecu instead? Does it even matter anymore? I'm clueless when it comes to tuning and ecu selections. Thanks for everything you have all provided me

[jrdeamicis]

The OBD2 cam sensor is an AC excited waveform.

Bottom of the page here - http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/trigger-signals3.html

To run your 3.0L on a smog legal US spec system either run an E36 M52 or S52 harness. Complete with evap, FPR, SAP.

Use the S52 intake to start. Trust me.

For a closer tune I would start with an S52 tune with the EWS deleted. If you wanted to run a single pre and post O2, use a Z3 ECU ( M52 MS41.1)

My 3.0L running on an M52 tune has LTFT's of 7%. The different of 3.0 to 2.8 is 7.14% so the ECU is happy with its fuel adjustment. With the OBD1 intake the LTFT were are 8.5/9.

Run the euro Z3 M52 sensor on the front timing wheel. Make sure to use your vanos trigger 60-2 wheel and not NV. All the other sensors bolt on.

Refer to this post in this thread, but I would re-read this entire thread.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=21789107&postcount=44

PN - 12141703277

DO NOT use the 12V adapter harness that BMW put onto the OBD2 motors. This hall sensor is a 5V sensor and works directly off the harness.

MS41.1 is fine. I would not use MS41.0, it has some different map layouts supposedly and will more annoying to deal with.

Use nothing OBD1 on your harness only OBD2.

Cliff notes

M52 or S52 harness
S52 ECU for 4 O2's
Z3 M52 ECU for 2 O2's
Crank sensor - 12141703277 - Running on the stock plug - NO adapter harness
Have the EWS deleted by a tuner

Verify your body / engine pin out for the harness.

I love OBD2.

[pussiwillow]

You are a life saver, thank you so much for all the info, seems straight forward as it gets! Since i don't have emissions yet could I have the sap and egr deleted from the ecu as well, and if I have to deal with emissions just add them later? I plan to run headers and I understand there's no where for the sap to attach?

[jrdeamicis]

You are a life saver, thank you so much for all the info, seems straight forward as it gets! Since i don't have emissions yet could I have the sap and egr deleted from the ecu as well, and if I have to deal with emissions just add them later? I plan to run headers and I understand there's no where for the sap to attach?

There is no EGR, just SAP.

If you delete the SAP, you can also get rid of the control solenoid and the secondary vac line that runs across the front of the motor.

The evap system should stay.

And yes, if you run headers you will have no place for the SAP system to inject air.

Also your 3" MAF is plenty capable for your motor.


ALSO! I can't remember but the E36 pans may be different for OBD1 / OBD2 to accommodate the cyclone separator part of the dipstick. And though the cyclone separator can be annoying its a nice device and has helped with any oil consumption.

[pussiwillow]

Awesome info thank you so much, my pan got cracked during freight anyway and am looking to get an s52 pan for it, I plan on s52 injectors and rail, s52 valve cover and coils, shrick cams (mild) ones big bore throttle body, nothing huge and some nice race headers. But I may just run stock m3 cams and keep it simple, depends in my finances. This motor has been killing the wallet haha. Again thank you for you info you've provided me

[jrockbk]

The OBD2 cam sensor is an AC excited waveform.

Bottom of the page here - http://www.picoauto.com/tutorials/trigger-signals3.html

To run your 3.0L on a smog legal US spec system either run an E36 M52 or S52 harness. Complete with evap, FPR, SAP.

Use the S52 intake to start. Trust me.

For a closer tune I would start with an S52 tune with the EWS deleted. If you wanted to run a single pre and post O2, use a Z3 ECU ( M52 MS41.1)

My 3.0L running on an M52 tune has LTFT's of 7%. The different of 3.0 to 2.8 is 7.14% so the ECU is happy with its fuel adjustment. With the OBD1 intake the LTFT were are 8.5/9.

Run the euro Z3 M52 sensor on the front timing wheel. Make sure to use your vanos trigger 60-2 wheel and not NV. All the other sensors bolt on.

Refer to this post in this thread, but I would re-read this entire thread.

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=21789107&postcount=44

PN - 12141703277

DO NOT use the 12V adapter harness that BMW put onto the OBD2 motors. This hall sensor is a 5V sensor and works directly off the harness.

MS41.1 is fine. I would not use MS41.0, it has some different map layouts supposedly and will more annoying to deal with.

Use nothing OBD1 on your harness only OBD2.

Cliff notes

M52 or S52 harness
S52 ECU for 4 O2's
Z3 M52 ECU for 2 O2's
Crank sensor - 12141703277 - Running on the stock plug - NO adapter harness
Have the EWS deleted by a tuner

Verify your body / engine pin out for the harness.

I love OBD2.

Question for you, I'm building exact same setup using m52 harness on s50 with euro crank sensor . You said this "Crank sensor - 12141703277 - Running on the stock plug - NO adapter harness" my question is how did you get the plugs together they are a different shapes? How did you modify this?

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[jrockbk]

Anyone?

[Wanganstyle]

Order the euro obd2 sensor and plug it in.

What are you waiting for?




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[S.Low]

so i am running basically the same setup as you gents. m50b30 with OBDII conversion using the euro crank sensor.

m50b30 stroker
m50 manifold
obd1 dinan throttle body
obd2 headers
m52 DME

cam timing and vanos timing is spot on, coils and plugs are good, as well as O2 sensors. New cam sensor.

it runs great! but... first start up was fine, drove couple of days with slight hesitation at freeway cruise...hence the new cam sensor...

then it was great for couple more days...pulls great to redline or rear redline but started horrible random continuous misfires on random cylinders..shut off car and turned back on and no problems..cruised fine until i pull on it again..then goes away after restarting the car

issue evolved, now this random continuous misfire would happen once on a 15min cruising trip on the freeway and would only go away after shutting off the car. then evolved again, it started to happen 3-4 times on the same drive for 15min on the freeway. so then i decided to clear the DME while driving on the freeway while random continuous misfire is happening and instantly it would go away. but happen again in the next few miles..clear it again and gone..

BTW no codes come up on the scanner, simply for SAP, EVAP & for auto tranny.

i would like some outside input on this, maybe you guys think of something i have not.

What i do think it is though, i recently read that our cars do not like CHEAP aftermarket sensors, which i ended up buying the EURO crank sensor from ebay. why? because i couldnt source an OEM one, so i winged it and bought it from ebay and it was aftermarket. which brings me to think that it is my culprit as it was fine at first couple of days after dropping in the new motor, and is gradually getting worse.

i cannot see it being mechanical or fuel related as the issues instantly go away after i erase the DTC's from the DME. could not be coils or plugs, theyre new and swapped around many times still come up random.

any insight would be helpful. thank you.

[328ijunkie]

Needs tune. Crank sensor design is different and tune needs to be flashed accordingly.

[DesertBMW]

Needs a proper program for front crank sensor location. This is because front pulley vibrates more than trigger wheel inside the engine and DME thinks engine is misfiring and it is cutting injectors to protect the engine.

[Wanganstyle]

M/S50 obd2?

Above two members both sell tunes so take posted advice with a grain of salt.

Ironically if you ordered a tune for your car from above member it might actually be copied from the other member above.......lol

Obviously a tune to match the engine would be ideal......but seems your cheap knockoff sensor would be the issue.


A local had this setup (s50 on obd2 m52 computer) and likely is still driving it around. Dme was bone stock m52 and it seemed ok; I drove it once years ago and had no such weird misfiring


I have a m54 running obd1 using a bmw factory Oem m44 crank sensor in the block;
m54 has no front timing marks on the pulley and cannot interchange an older m50 pulley. Runs just fine and does not ever misfire





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[328ijunkie]

Above two members both sell tunes so take posted advice with a grain of salt.

True :P

Ironically if you ordered a tune for your car from above member it might actually be copied from the other member above.......lol

epic lol

Obviously a tune to match the engine would be ideal......but seems your cheap knockoff sensor would be the issue.



A local had this setup (s50 on obd2 m52 computer) and likely is still driving it around. Dme was bone stock m52 and it seemed ok; I drove it once years ago and had no such weird misfiring


I have a m54 running obd1 using a bmw factory Oem m44 crank sensor in the block;
m54 has no front timing marks on the pulley and cannot interchange an older m50 pulley. Runs just fine and does not ever misfire





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The car i made the OBD2 S50 thread about years ago i struggled with for a while before i got into the tuning game. Customer didnt ever really have problems with it but on my spirited test drives, slamming into the limiter would cause mult misfires and shut everything down. Changed the crank pulley a few times and found one that did it the least as well as grinding down timing cover to bring sensor closer to wheel.

[S.Low]

ok i see what you guys are saying, makes sense...but non proper tune would not gradually get worse i figured...

say i get a proper tune for this set up and works well and all..but then i plan to run this current engine turbo in the next year or so and was planning on having an rkTunes tune..would this override proper tune for this set up is what im worried about.