some swap questions

[dmjensen]

i've got an s52 im putting into my 92 325i vert, its still obdII and I'm using the zf trans that came with it.

my questions are:

what slave cylinder SHOULD i use? i know you can use the regular g260 or the zf, each has there own problems from my understanding but which should i use?

what clutch line should i use? i have both M3 and e30 for a g260

will i have any problems not using the post cat o2 sensors?

i dont plan on using the secondary air pump, will that cause the engine to run limp? or will that just affect the cold start up?

and last, what do i use for a charcoal canister? or can i get away without using one? if thats the case how do i make that work out?

[scottinAZ]

cant speak for the post cat sensors, as I run OBD1, and dont have them, but here is the skinny as I know it on the rest...

Slave should be the one stock with the trans, I have E46 328 ZF trans, with stock slave, and the clutch line from the master is stock E30.

Charcoal cannister, I used the stock E30 unit as well, just ran the evap line from the purge valve as stock to the throttle body (YMMV, again OBD1 vs OBD2) should be fairly easy

As far as I know the secondary air pump and the post cat sensors can be flashed out of the DME, so that really isnt a huge issue for you to have to deal with. presumably you will need a reflash anyways to remove EWS, so you can have it all done at the same time

[Slovik]

I run OBD2 with out the secondary air pump and cold start up and running is just fine but if you are using s52 headers you might as well keep it as it will be easier / cheaper and won't hurt anything. I run the OBD2 headers and had them welded to get rid of the channel for the secondary air, given a second chance I would have just kept it.

[evandael]

if you dont run the SAP, post cat O2's, or obd2 charcoal canister valve (as well as all the other components; the fuel tank pressure sensor and muffler flap solenoid), the DME will know things are not 'right' and will throw codes.

three options here, in order of worst to best: go OBD1, have the obd2 components flashed out of the DME (I assume you're having it flashed anyway to delete EWS), or source all related obd2 components and run the system as it was originally designed.

[dmjensen]

Whoah, i havent read anything about having to flash the ecu for ews... So basically if i finish this whole thing and go to start it its just not going to start?

Who can flash ecu's and whats normal charge for that?

Also i think ill use the post cat 02s and a charcoal canister. But i probabally wont end up using the fuel pressure sensor ( is that the black box in the trunk or the one hiding behind the rear wheel well by the gas filler?

[scottinAZ]

for the EWS, unless you have EVERYTHING (DME, EWS Module, antenna ring and key) from the same car, you will need to get it flashed out. If you have the donor car in your posession, and can get all of the components, then you can disregard this reflash.

[dmjensen]

Can a dealer do that? Or is that a special deal.

Because i have acess to the donor car, but i dont feel like hooking all of that up since it sounds like a pain

[scottinAZ]

dealer is useless, you need a tuner. a search should turn up a few options for you

[dmjensen]

Alrighty, and then a new question is how do i hook up the fuel lines? I have it all the way back to the inline fuel filter and the little regulator looking thing under the drivers seat of the e36

[dmjensen]

Anyone have a suggestion who to take the dme to? Im having a hard time trying to find anyone locally

[scottinAZ]

May want to send out some PM's. IIRC 328ijunkie does them or knows someone who does.

As for the fuel lines, I cannot help on this. I run OBD1 and they are totally different. again, 328iJunkie should be able to possibly assist, he is a huge proponent of OBDII swaps

[evandael]

OP, check this discussion: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=230879

Who can flash ecu's and whats normal charge for that?

Also i think ill use the post cat 02s and a charcoal canister. But i probabally wont end up using the fuel pressure sensor ( is that the black box in the trunk or the one hiding behind the rear wheel well by the gas filler?

the post cat O2's are only for OBD2 to determine if the cats are in good working order, not for fuel adaptation. flash 'em out.

the black box in the trunk is the OBD2 charcoal canister.. don't need it, cause the E30 has a charcoal canister. however, the charcoal canister valve will need to be flashed out as well.

are you running an M50 manifold or the OBD2 one? in the latter case (though it can be adapted to work for both), I would run the secondary air pump along with the OBD2 manifolds... one less thing that you're ripping out of the original design.

fuel tank pressure sensor is the one at the top of the filler neck.

notice how the OBD2 fuel rail doesn't have an FPR at the end of it.... that little regulator looking thing is the remote FPR and a valve for the fuel system, plumb it inline with the stock E30 system. it should be easy to hook up the fueling if you do it all yourself, instead of trying to mate it up with the existing system on the E30.

[dmjensen]

Well i have the obd2 manifolds but ofcourse the secondary air pump was "missing" since i found the conecctor for that cut off the harness. So i wont be using that haha

[dmjensen]

After reading through some of that thread you reffered im unsure of the reliabilty of my wiring source.
I was going off the akg wiring pins diagram but upon reading the obd2 thread i saw that c01 pin 20 is a grpund but in the akg it says its a coolant temp....

I have a 92 325ic and an s52 out of a 97 m3, does anyone have an exact pin to pin diagram i could use?

[cormier]

Firstly, you can keep your evap valve just put it on to your stock e30 canister line (you need to hook it to the motor for the canister to be effective anyways)

Secondly, easiest IMO is to get a multimeter, sit down with an ETM, and find out which of your pins come from where. That way you know exactly what your harness has for sure and what pins are what. From there the chassis side is easy and then just connect the dots