Car shakes/vibrates when in first or reverse

[blackhawkimpact]

I have a problem with the car that when I shift to first, sometimes second, or when I put it on reverse, car shakes/vibrates violently. When I'm at a stop sign and I put it in first, I slowly let go of the clutch and it shakes. When I go on reverse it also shakes. Engine does not hesitate or anything. Car runs perfect after second gear. It won't shake on high speeds neither.

What can it be?


Second problem is that my tach/ecometer is not working. It was working after the swap but stopped working somewhere around when I painted the needles and removed the OBC. All of my other gauges work flawlessly. Already check the back cluster for any loose connections but everything checks out fine. Help?

[blackhawkimpact]

Anyone?

[jrdeamicis]

Does it feel like a driveshaft vibration or flywheel?

[blackhawkimpact]

Idk. It only does it when I depress the clutch on first and reverse

[blackhawkimpact]

Bump, fixed the tach problem.

[blackhawkimpact]

Bump? Other than the vibration on first and reverse, car runs like a champ.

[M-technik-3]

Dual mass flywheel? What is the clutch set up?

[blackhawkimpact]

Single mass flywheel (323 euro flywheel).
Stage 2 m20 clutch.
g240 tranny

[drken]

Second problem is that my tach/ecometer is not working. It was working after the swap but stopped working somewhere around when I painted the needles and removed the OBC. All of my other gauges work flawlessly. Already check the back cluster for any loose connections but everything checks out fine. Help?

I think I can help with this one. Had the same problem stripping my '87 325IS for a race car build. If memory serves, the tach and econometer signals make a stop at the OBC before continuing on to the gauges. So, when you pull the OBC, they loose their connection. You'll need to get under the dash and look for another connector (on mine it was tied off near the C104 connector in/near glove box. It makes a straight shot to the gauges. This was on an early '87, so it plugged in to the c104 connector in the glove box. Apparently, the extra wire and plug is already there for cars that don't have the OBC option, you may just need to hunt for it, and plug it in. At least, that's what I found in mine.

Good Luck!

Ken

[BM5W]

Are your motor mounts in good shape and tight?

[blackhawkimpact]

I think I can help with this one. Had the same problem stripping my '87 325IS for a race car build. If memory serves, the tach and econometer signals make a stop at the OBC before continuing on to the gauges. So, when you pull the OBC, they loose their connection. You'll need to get under the dash and look for another connector (on mine it was tied off near the C104 connector in/near glove box. It makes a straight shot to the gauges. This was on an early '87, so it plugged in to the c104 connector in the glove box. Apparently, the extra wire and plug is already there for cars that don't have the OBC option, you may just need to hunt for it, and plug it in. At least, that's what I found in mine.

Good Luck!

Ken

Good to know, but already fixed my tach. It was my board.

Are your motor mounts in good shape and tight?

Yep. Just checked them today. They looked fine

[evandael]

OP, just a hunch, but it could be that the selector rod is hitting the guibo when you're in the lower gears. What trans/mount setup are you using, and do you have a short shifter?

I would look down there to see if there are any signs of impact on either the guibo or selector rod. If this is the case, you may need to put a bend in it to get more clearance.

[blackhawkimpact]

I'm using the stock g240 trans and mount. I have a z4 short shifter. Not to sure but I believe I had this problem even before I installed the short shifter. I'll take a look anyways. Thanks.

[M-technik-3]

Take a good look at your mounts and guibo and csb. If none of them are the culpits consider your clutch is not grabbing well enough.

My thoughts

[blackhawkimpact]

Other than the guibo everything else was replaced. I'll double check the guibo.