Car shakes/vibrates when in first or reverse

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  • Slovik
    Advanced Member
    • Jan 2010
    • 198

    #16
    I have almost the same setup as you S52, 240 Trans, Stage 2 clutch, M20 shaved and lightened (13 or 14lbs) 3.46 diff. I have a slight shake sometimes when taking off in 1st or reverse. I have thought it is a combination of things, tall 1st gear in the 240 trans, light flywheel and poor clutch choice. I have been able to get mine pretty smooth now the last thing I have done is tension the CSB. The spec is 4 to 6mm (1/4") forward, Like others have said make sure your mounts and guibo are good then tension your CSB. If like an earlier poster said your linkage is touching the guibo BMW make the perfect fit parts for our setup 25111220759 & 25111220835. Hope you figure it out.

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    • blackhawkimpact
      R3VLimited
      • Apr 2010
      • 2415

      #17
      ^Thanks for the info.

      I've checked the flex disc and shifter assy. And they both seemed fine. Guibo looks in great condition on both sides an the shifter assy doesn't seem to hit the guibo or anything. I might of misworded the OP. When I hit first or reverse I get a clunking noise and vibration until I shift out of first or reverse.

      To be a little more detailed, when I put it in first and step on the clutch to shift to second, while slowly releasing the clutch, that's when the clunking/vibration starts. So guessing its between 1st and second. Sometimes it does it when I shift to 3rd.
      When I shift to reverse and slowly release the clutch it will start to clunk/vibrate unless I competent release the clutch.

      I haven't checked te CSB because it's new and I really don't think it's that. But I'll check when I have more time.

      Could it be my TOB???

      Comment

      • blackhawkimpact
        R3VLimited
        • Apr 2010
        • 2415

        #18
        Update

        So I removed the tranny to change my shaft seals. Also I got the e30 320 euro shift linkage, (25111220759 Shifter Arm, 25111220835 Shift Rod) to see if my custom shift linkage are the problem.

        Before I went on, I've notice that the dots on the driveshaft weren't lined up properly, not by much though. This might be the problem that is causing my vibration in first and reverse?...



        Also went on removing the CSB to inspect it throughly and notice that the bearing came off. Don't know if this happen when I removed it or not.
        Question is, is the bearing on the CSB suppose to come off? Seems to me It's not suppose to. Does my CSB look ok other than the bearing being off?



        Comment

        • Mr.SWISS
          E30 Fanatic
          • Nov 2005
          • 1251

          #19
          That bearing mount looks done to me, I would make sure the bearing stays put in it with some loctite and make sure the clip is on the stub of the shaft that keeps the bearing secure.
          Originally posted by 325Projectz
          don't listen to the diagram... listen to mr. swiss.
          :nice:

          Comment

          • blackhawkimpact
            R3VLimited
            • Apr 2010
            • 2415

            #20
            Originally posted by Mr.SWISS
            That bearing mount looks done to me, I would make sure the bearing stays put in it with some loctite and make sure the clip is on the stub of the shaft that keeps the bearing secure.
            This clip? Is there one or too?

            Comment

            • SwiftE30
              E30 Modder
              • Jun 2010
              • 998

              #21
              Just grab a new csb on rockauto. When you get everything back together make sure to preload the csb and then check the alignment of your trans to driveline. My trans mounts were to tall and caused the trans to sit at an incorrect angle. Had to loosen the engine mounts to let the trans drop a bit before I reinstalled new mounts to get the correct angle
              1989 E30 Zinnoberrot Vert 325i OBD1 S52 turbo;IP

              Comment

              • blackhawkimpact
                R3VLimited
                • Apr 2010
                • 2415

                #22
                Are the two dust plates required?

                Comment

                • ZekeTheSneak
                  E30 Mastermind
                  • May 2010
                  • 1562

                  #23
                  I would try bleeding the clutch one mo gin! I think your clutch is grabbing funky and thats what you are feeling. I would bleed it and maybe put some more miles on it to bed in the clutch. On my subi water would get on the disc and when you first went to drive it it was grabby like you say.



                  Comment

                  • AndrewBird
                    The Mad Scientist
                    • Oct 2003
                    • 11892

                    #24
                    That csb is toast, definitely need a new one. The clip that was refereed to earlier is the circlip that holds the bearing onto the drive shaft. It spans into a groove on the drive shaft. Also, Having the drive shaft not lined up could have caused all your problems, including destroying a new csb.

                    Comment

                    • blackhawkimpact
                      R3VLimited
                      • Apr 2010
                      • 2415

                      #25
                      Ok, thanks. So the bearing is not suppose to come off from the support mount? I know about the circlip but what about the two dust caps? Do I need them. I'm missing one and I dont want to buy it if I dont need them since they are $12 ea

                      Comment

                      • AndrewBird
                        The Mad Scientist
                        • Oct 2003
                        • 11892

                        #26
                        The bearing is not supposed to come out of the rubber support. And you need the dust caps. They keep dirt out of the bearing and prevent premature failure.

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                        • blackhawkimpact
                          R3VLimited
                          • Apr 2010
                          • 2415

                          #27
                          Awesome, thanks.

                          Comment

                          • madsedan
                            Wrencher
                            • Aug 2008
                            • 222

                            #28
                            So did this fix your issue?
                            '91 318is, S50 swap, Bilsteing/H&R race, Recaro SRD, etc.

                            Comment

                            • blackhawkimpact
                              R3VLimited
                              • Apr 2010
                              • 2415

                              #29
                              Not yet. Still waiting on some parts from the dealer

                              Comment

                              • Wh33lhop
                                R3V OG
                                • Feb 2009
                                • 11705

                                #30
                                To me it sounds like what you are describing is clutch chatter. The only time you get this "shaking" is when the clutch is slipping. Correct? In that case, your clutch likely has a lot to do with it. If it's not full-faced (if it's a puck clutch) or if it's an unsprung hub, it's a lot more likely to chatter. "Performance clutches," which are generally not that useful btw, tend to sacrifice engagement smoothness for grabbing power.
                                paint sucks

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