Help me fix this POS

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  • John@Revshift
    Forum Sponsor
    • Feb 2010
    • 205

    #16
    Originally posted by 5Toes
    that guibo is revSHIT

    way to stiff and breaks everything
    Haha, We're back in 7th grade. :)

    We've had nothing but good reviews from our customers, but that's not the issue.

    The issue is that you have no respect. You didn't come at us with any sort of logic or data to back up your claims. Instead, you come at me with emotional drama like some sort of child.

    We're in this thread posting nothing but useful information to a member of the community who needs some help and you come in and threadjack with immature bullshit.

    I refuse to allow you to carry this grudge against us for no reason. If you've got beef with us take it to the PM. Your childish behavior is nothing but a negative impact on the community.

    Comment

    • Roysneon
      R3V Elite
      • Apr 2010
      • 4505

      #17
      Originally posted by 5Toes
      that guibo is revSHIT

      way to stiff and breaks everything
      Do you have anything useful to say? What are your personal experiences with this part?

      God damn; a one day ban was not long enough.
      For all things 24v, check out Markert Motorworks!
      Originally posted by mbonanni
      I hate modded emtree, I hate modded cawrz, I hate jdm, I hate swag, I hate stanceyolokids, I hate bags (on cars), I hate stuff that is slowz, I hate tires.

      I am a pursit now.

      Comment

      • giantkeeper
        E30 Fanatic
        • Aug 2009
        • 1416

        #18
        Are the motor mounts shimmed? I know that those of us that have the Raceland headers have the engine shimmed up a bit causing an unnatural driveline angle...

        A driveshaft place should be sending out balanced driveshafts. I know mistakes happen, but this is their business....
        Originally posted by blunttech
        Always Always go for the reach around if there is an option

        Comment

        • nofattys
          Noobie
          • Jun 2012
          • 37

          #19
          There are pictures from under the vehicle in this thread, other than replacing the shaft and tires, the vehicle is as it was in these pictures.



          I am going to a driveshaft R&D center that is close by at 5 today. He is going to tear in to the entire thing and try to help get it sorted out. I will take updated pictures tonight and post them up when I get home. I am also printing out the responses from here so we can go through the step by step to rule everything out.

          I appreciate the help guys, it means a lot. thanks

          Comment

          • ZekeTheSneak
            E30 Mastermind
            • May 2010
            • 1562

            #20
            I wouldnt be so mad at the P/O, doing alot of modding especially with engine/trans angle and completely changing the guibo is a big deal. Everything takes a little tweaking with swapped cars. Just remember you bought a high horsepower car and weird things like this will happen. I would listen to the r3vshift guys but also check into all of the mounts and make sure things are in line. Good luck!



            Comment

            • nofattys
              Noobie
              • Jun 2012
              • 37

              #21
              Im not mad at what he did to the car, Im pissed because he out and out lied to me regarding the issues with it. He was very capable while working on the vehicle, and he also had reputable mechanic working on the vehicle as well. It was the perfect storm, I am not mechanically experienced, I came from 1500 miles away to buy the car, and I paid in crispy 100 dollar bills. The issues that came up during the purchase (the banging under the car, clicking from the rear passenger side while driving, temp gauge being erratic, steering wheel vibration at speed, having to pump the brake pedal to create pressure) were questioned and he gave me answers that were completely wrong for the situation.

              Just as an example, the banging under the car, he said he didnt know what it was, that he just accelerated through it until the car was warmed up. He knew exactly what it was because he made a post on this site regarding the same issue 6 months before and claimed to have fixed it by raising the transmission 3/4 of an inch. I found it by accident while looking for answers to my issue.

              The clicking while driving, he said it was the brake calipers cooling down, but the axle was bad.

              The temp gauge being erratic. He said the temp gauge was wrong for the vehicle due to the swap and that when it goes in to the red area it was fine due to the difference in engines. The thermostat was original and bad (he said it was brand new in the ad) and I almost wrecked the engine because I listened to him. I got lucky in that regard.

              The brake pedal issue was due to not having the booster included in the swap, but real issue was that the brake assembly wasnt connected properly. He told me he had it looked at and it just needed the wilwood pressure valves, which I bought and did not need.

              I knew I was going to have a few issues going in to the purchase due to the age of the vehicle and the change in performance. I read about these vehicles for a month before I spent the money, and this car had all the right parts in it, and was built correctly as far as I could tell. What I didnt care for was the outright lying, especially considering I was 1500 miles from home and driving back, to me thats unacceptable. Maybe Im out of line, but I know I have a certain amount of integrity when it comes to things like this.

              Comment

              • nofattys
                Noobie
                • Jun 2012
                • 37

                #22
                so the verdict is in, and it was a combination of two things. First, the transmission was raised bout 3/8 of an inch too high, second is the revshift flexdisc is creating an issue. Once the tranny was dropped and the flex disc bolts were loosened to a point that it allowed the driveshaft to shift a bit, the vibration was entirely gone.

                The specialist wasnt completely sure if it was ok to drive with the bolts loosened and the lock nuts as they were, we I opted to leave the car with him and i will order an OEM unit to alleviate the issue, unless Revshift has anything to add. If you would like to speak with the specialist i am using to rectify the issue, he said he would have no problem working through it with you, just PM me and I will give you his name and number, he is working tomorrow.

                Thanks guys for the help, I am looking forward to getting this thing up and running again.

                Comment

                • John@Revshift
                  Forum Sponsor
                  • Feb 2010
                  • 205

                  #23
                  Originally posted by nofattys
                  so the verdict is in, and it was a combination of two things. First, the transmission was raised bout 3/8 of an inch too high, second is the revshift flexdisc is creating an issue. Once the tranny was dropped and the flex disc bolts were loosened to a point that it allowed the driveshaft to shift a bit, the vibration was entirely gone.

                  The specialist wasnt completely sure if it was ok to drive with the bolts loosened and the lock nuts as they were, we I opted to leave the car with him and i will order an OEM unit to alleviate the issue, unless Revshift has anything to add. If you would like to speak with the specialist i am using to rectify the issue, he said he would have no problem working through it with you, just PM me and I will give you his name and number, he is working tomorrow.

                  Thanks guys for the help, I am looking forward to getting this thing up and running again.
                  If you loosened the flex disc bolts and the driveshaft shifted then that means there is a misalignment somewhere in the driveline. If you install a rubber flex disc then that misalignment will put excessive strain on the rubber disc which will cause it to fail prematurely.

                  Do not drive the car with loose flex disc bolts. It will cause damage.

                  We will talk to your mechanic tomorrow. PM us his name and number or have him call the shop at 586-510-4042.

                  Comment

                  • justin_l_
                    E30 Enthusiast
                    • Jun 2007
                    • 1079

                    #24
                    I'd be questioning that "specialist" if he doesn't know if it is safe to drive with loose driveshaft bolts and he can't figure out that it is binding because something isn't lined up properly.
                    Is your subframe raised? If it is and the differential isn't lowered to compensate it could cause an alignment issue.

                    Comment

                    • nofattys
                      Noobie
                      • Jun 2012
                      • 37

                      #25
                      Sorry, I must have misworded it. He knew it wasnt safe, he wasnt going to let me drive away like that. He didnt want me to drive the vehicle with the vibration in the drivetrain, and loosening the bolts was the only way to get rid of it.

                      This is all this guy does for a living, and hes been doing it with good success for the past 25 yrs, his business is very well known in my area. I trust him.

                      He also did find that the transmission wasnt lined up properly, if you read what I wrote in my last post. We lowered the transmission 3/8 on an inch and it alleviated the issue once the bolts were loosened. As for the subframe, I am not sure if it is raised or not.

                      Comment

                      • e30rapidic
                        R3VLimited
                        • Oct 2003
                        • 2167

                        #26
                        shit is still out of alignment somewhere......

                        I ended up shimming my csb and diff down as well to get everything in a straight line
                        '87 325ic, powered by S50.

                        Comment

                        • nofattys
                          Noobie
                          • Jun 2012
                          • 37

                          #27
                          Just to clarify, am I buying a OEM 318is flex disc, or a different one? does anyone have the correct part number?

                          BTW my DS part number is 2792-733 from a 325i manual
                          Last edited by nofattys; 09-08-2012, 08:01 AM.

                          Comment

                          • justin_l_
                            E30 Enthusiast
                            • Jun 2007
                            • 1079

                            #28
                            Originally posted by nofattys
                            He also did find that the transmission wasnt lined up properly, if you read what I wrote in my last post. We lowered the transmission 3/8 on an inch and it alleviated the issue once the bolts were loosened. As for the subframe, I am not sure if it is raised or not.
                            When the bolts are tight it still binds correct? That means that it is not properly aligned still. When you loosen it you allow play to compensate for the missaligned drivetrain.

                            As other people have told you, when you replace the poly flex disk with a rubber one it is only masking the problem, and it will still prematurely wear out and need to be replaced.

                            Comment

                            • jrdeamicis
                              E30 Modder
                              • Nov 2008
                              • 956

                              #29
                              The center of the output flange needs to be 5-3/8 from the trans tunnel to the alignment dowel. (5SPD e30, fresh mounts, stock 5 speed mount)

                              just FFT.
                              Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73
                              Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff
                              ___________________________________________
                              BNB Designs
                              Engine Swaps, Fabrication, Innovation, General Repair
                              Richmond CA
                              Julian 848-248-8029

                              Comment

                              • nofattys
                                Noobie
                                • Jun 2012
                                • 37

                                #30
                                thanks, i will bring this with me on tuesday

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